GW dakkajet - WIP
- Thread starter Hasdrubal
- Start date
Slybarbeau
New member
Like you said, sometime the picture do not reflec reality. but from what I am seeing now, I think you need mor contrast in the flames. It is hard to see the difinition. Keep up the good work.
The more I see it in real life, the more I kind of agree, I'll start by adding a few white hot spots here and there, but I fear I might have to layer another set of flames using pure white only this time. Glad I only edge lined the yellow areas ^^. I'll try to do that this week.
Based on your feedback, I sprayed another layer of flames this morning, focusing on the nose of the jet. I made sure this time not to cover them with Black Candy, so that the white brings more contrast. It's definitely an improvement:
View attachment 15215
View attachment 15216
It was sometimes a bit difficult to hold the jet in a good position, keep the stencil in place, and spray a light mist on a focused area, so they are a couple of rough spots here and there (flame lick close to the canopy, visible on the 2nd picture, for instance). I'll correct those during the weathering stages: I can alter the shapes while chipping the paint, bring the contrast down when fading the panels, and use the odd rust spot as well.
I've also started to edge highlight the yellow parts (plane fuselage, fins and 1 wing are done), I'm wondering how I should approach the nose section. Should I go over the white flames with the highlith, or avoid these areas? I'm personally leaning towards the second solution, but I don't how it will look like. Your suggestions are welcome!
View attachment 15215
View attachment 15216
It was sometimes a bit difficult to hold the jet in a good position, keep the stencil in place, and spray a light mist on a focused area, so they are a couple of rough spots here and there (flame lick close to the canopy, visible on the 2nd picture, for instance). I'll correct those during the weathering stages: I can alter the shapes while chipping the paint, bring the contrast down when fading the panels, and use the odd rust spot as well.
I've also started to edge highlight the yellow parts (plane fuselage, fins and 1 wing are done), I'm wondering how I should approach the nose section. Should I go over the white flames with the highlith, or avoid these areas? I'm personally leaning towards the second solution, but I don't how it will look like. Your suggestions are welcome!
I've spent a good amount of time on the dakkajet this week. The yellow sections have all been edge highlighted with a 1:1 mix of Sulfuric Yellow (P3) and Ivory (VMC). The edges of the black panels have been defined with Codex Grey (GW), leaving the path of whitest flames untouched. Rivets in there respective areas have been highlighted using the same colors. Edges of the side exhausts have received Boltgun Metal to bring some metal shine back. I also painted a few panels in Bolgtun Metal to bring more variety, and provide further support for rusting.
The plane was then gloss varnished (I'm using Liquitex, thinned 1:1 with water, and shot through an airbrush), and decals applied. In spite of some times heavy MicroSol use, I couldn't dissolve all the transparent film, some show through on the pictures even after another gloss varnish layer had been applied. I remember now why I vastly prefer Forgeworld's decals to straight GW's, never had the issue with the former. It's only a gaming piece though, so that will have to do.
After the varnish had dried, I started chipping the plane with the colors I had used for edge highlighting. Yellow was OK, but black didn't work out well, I'll try again using a dark red primer type of color. I added bare metal inside some chips, using again Boltgun Metal, then resealed everything with gloss varnish. I then applied oil colors around the panels and faded them away with white spirit, making sure to keep faint traces here and there. The effect is subtle, but can be seen on the wing shot. It's all about modulating the base color to give it a more faded look and enrich the tone. The plane being yellow and black, I use German 3 Tones, Buff and German Grey Highlight (all from Mig Productions). I let the oils dry for 1 hour or so before resealing everything again.
View attachment 15338
View attachment 15339
That's where I am right now. I wnated to keep chipping under control compared to my previous builds, but I believe it is a bit understated for an ork plane, it kind of looks either not damaged enough, or too well maintained. I'll add more yellow chips, and re-do the black ones as the grey didn't stand out enough on the black/grey panels. I might as well do a second stage of oils fading to bring more variety, using brownish tones this time. I also need to weather the metal panels; what would you recommend for chipping?
As usual, comments and suggestions are welcome!
The plane was then gloss varnished (I'm using Liquitex, thinned 1:1 with water, and shot through an airbrush), and decals applied. In spite of some times heavy MicroSol use, I couldn't dissolve all the transparent film, some show through on the pictures even after another gloss varnish layer had been applied. I remember now why I vastly prefer Forgeworld's decals to straight GW's, never had the issue with the former. It's only a gaming piece though, so that will have to do.
After the varnish had dried, I started chipping the plane with the colors I had used for edge highlighting. Yellow was OK, but black didn't work out well, I'll try again using a dark red primer type of color. I added bare metal inside some chips, using again Boltgun Metal, then resealed everything with gloss varnish. I then applied oil colors around the panels and faded them away with white spirit, making sure to keep faint traces here and there. The effect is subtle, but can be seen on the wing shot. It's all about modulating the base color to give it a more faded look and enrich the tone. The plane being yellow and black, I use German 3 Tones, Buff and German Grey Highlight (all from Mig Productions). I let the oils dry for 1 hour or so before resealing everything again.
View attachment 15338
View attachment 15339
That's where I am right now. I wnated to keep chipping under control compared to my previous builds, but I believe it is a bit understated for an ork plane, it kind of looks either not damaged enough, or too well maintained. I'll add more yellow chips, and re-do the black ones as the grey didn't stand out enough on the black/grey panels. I might as well do a second stage of oils fading to bring more variety, using brownish tones this time. I also need to weather the metal panels; what would you recommend for chipping?
As usual, comments and suggestions are welcome!
Looking nice mate. God I love these things, need to start painting mine. I'm not too sure on the white flames, maybe a yellow orange wash or something to soften it up a bit. Ooh n grease, all dakkajets need some grease. I stumbled across some guys blog n hes also painting a bad moon jet, has some real nice chipping effects, it's called 'the brush and bolter'. Anyway keep up the good work, I'll stay tuned.
LinZ
LinZ
1 week without updating the thread, and it get pushed to page 3 
I've added another layer of chips on the yellow areas, and redid the ones on the black areas, sponging VAC Hull Red then adding Boltgun Metal inside. After another gloss varnish layer, I accentuated the color fading with a broader range of colors (Titanium Black, Burnt Umber, Burnt Sienna, Raw Sienna, German Grey Highlight and Buff).
Yet another gloss varnish layer, then I pinwashed the kit with a mix of Burnt Sienna and Industrial Earth. After all rivets were washed, I dragged the wash towards the back with a flat brush to simulate dirt accumulation and dirt traces caued by the speed. I also washed the secondary thrusters with Burnt Sienna, to simulate old rust.
It's starting to come together rather well, but the weathering has muted the contrast on the wings. I should have pushed the contrast deeper towards the fuselage. Oh well, it's only a tabletop piece, not a competition entry, so I can leave with that. On the plus side, the chipping looks right to me, that's probably the first piece I don't overchip! However, I'm seriously pissed at the decals, which I failed to matt properly on the wings, while those on the fuselage are OK, using exactly the same procedure (gloss varnish of the area, decal application, MicroSol brushing of the decal, then gloss varnish of the area to seal everything).
View attachment 15444
Close-up on a wing:
View attachment 15445
Newt step: more oxydation on steel and copper areas, again with oil-based washes and glazes. As usual, suggestions, feedback and comments are appreciated!
I've added another layer of chips on the yellow areas, and redid the ones on the black areas, sponging VAC Hull Red then adding Boltgun Metal inside. After another gloss varnish layer, I accentuated the color fading with a broader range of colors (Titanium Black, Burnt Umber, Burnt Sienna, Raw Sienna, German Grey Highlight and Buff).
Yet another gloss varnish layer, then I pinwashed the kit with a mix of Burnt Sienna and Industrial Earth. After all rivets were washed, I dragged the wash towards the back with a flat brush to simulate dirt accumulation and dirt traces caued by the speed. I also washed the secondary thrusters with Burnt Sienna, to simulate old rust.
It's starting to come together rather well, but the weathering has muted the contrast on the wings. I should have pushed the contrast deeper towards the fuselage. Oh well, it's only a tabletop piece, not a competition entry, so I can leave with that. On the plus side, the chipping looks right to me, that's probably the first piece I don't overchip! However, I'm seriously pissed at the decals, which I failed to matt properly on the wings, while those on the fuselage are OK, using exactly the same procedure (gloss varnish of the area, decal application, MicroSol brushing of the decal, then gloss varnish of the area to seal everything).
View attachment 15444
Close-up on a wing:
View attachment 15445
Newt step: more oxydation on steel and copper areas, again with oil-based washes and glazes. As usual, suggestions, feedback and comments are appreciated!
The dakkajet received some oxydation treatment, in 2 steps. First was another series of pinwashes and glazes on the bare metallics, using Mig Production's Standard Rust Effect for steal, and a turquoise oil wash for copper. I followed up with a mat varnish layer for provide better adhesion to pigments, and started rusting the metallic areas with Old, Standard and Light Rust pigments (Mig Production), sealed with their Pigment Fixer.
View attachment 15540
View attachment 15541
View attachment 15542
There's more work to come on the weapons, as I've not yet rusted their underside. After that, some exhaust fumes traces, fuel leaks, etc., then more streaks using Mig's Rain Effect to slightly discolor surfaces again, and it should be done. I'll probably have to touch up the inside of the cockpit though.
As usual, C&C welcome!
View attachment 15540
View attachment 15541
View attachment 15542
There's more work to come on the weapons, as I've not yet rusted their underside. After that, some exhaust fumes traces, fuel leaks, etc., then more streaks using Mig's Rain Effect to slightly discolor surfaces again, and it should be done. I'll probably have to touch up the inside of the cockpit though.
As usual, C&C welcome!
Slybarbeau
New member
I have noticed that ou have some "slivering" under your decals. Two ways to remedy to that. Before putting on the decals, you should give a gloss varnish first. Put you decals and then reuse a matt varnish if you don't whant them to shine. Or use "MicroSol" and "Microset" solution. This stuff is doing miricales. Great work by the way. Keep it up. :good:
Well, I did the whole stuff (gloss varnish before, mircroSol after decals, then gloss again). I assume the varnish layer was too thin, and that it allowed micro air bubbles to get stuck under the decal :/
Strangely enough, I noticed this happens with GW's decals much more frequently than with FW's, which I have no issue fading with MicroSol.
nestorv
New member
Good Job! I am waiting for the next update. I like the use of the mig pigments to bring out the necessary weathered metal effect.
With regards to the decals, maybe GW use a different carrier film for their decals compared to the FW ones. Some years ago Humbrol did a decal fix as well. If I recall correctly I think that was a 2-step process as well, much like the Micro-Sol and Micro-Set. In any case, hitting the surface with gloss varnish prior placing the decal is the way to go.
Keep us updated.
With regards to the decals, maybe GW use a different carrier film for their decals compared to the FW ones. Some years ago Humbrol did a decal fix as well. If I recall correctly I think that was a 2-step process as well, much like the Micro-Sol and Micro-Set. In any case, hitting the surface with gloss varnish prior placing the decal is the way to go.
Keep us updated.
RuneBrush
New member
I bought some of the Logan Grimnar decals which arrived yesterday and unlike the normal ones which clearly have a visible "blob" of sealer, these newer ones are completely covered in what appears to be a much thinner layer of sealer so it may be that there is a new process for producing decals.
