Help requested: attaching green stuff accessories

[Aoroi]

If you have Instant Mold from this site (I know there are other brands and products, but this is only one I know at the moment) you can copy a tile or rock, something to give you the floor you want. Hold onto the mold and when your done with the greenstuff for your current project, you can use the left overs in the mold to create bases when you next need them.

One model I wanted a beer mug, so I just made it out of a single lump of GS. Got it about the right size, let it cure and scratched lines in it with a shard hobby knife dragging it backwards. Then hollowed out with a small hand drill. It worked pretty well, I plan to make a few more and fill them with a clear, slightly colored resin to make blood and ales.

 

[Hoodoo_Hermit]

If you have Instant Mold from this site (I know there are other brands and products, but this is only one I know at the moment) you can copy a tile or rock, something to give you the floor you want. Hold onto the mold and when your done with the greenstuff for your current project, you can use the left overs in the mold to create bases when you next need them.

One model I wanted a beer mug, so I just made it out of a single lump of GS. Got it about the right size, let it cure and scratched lines in it with a shard hobby knife dragging it backwards. Then hollowed out with a small hand drill. It worked pretty well, I plan to make a few more and fill them with a clear, slightly colored resin to make blood and ales.

I recently bought a hand drill and I'm thinking that might be an easier way to get the mug made Thanks for the tip. I do not have instant mold yet so I'll have to keep brainstorming and/or searching for ways to do the wooden floor.

 

[Einion]

Thanks for the advice! Yea I'd like it to be hollow. I know its a bit strange but I was searching for tutorials on how to do a mug before posting my comment (hoping to avoid something already posted here at least) and found a little tutorial done by a lady who makes miniature furniture for doll houses. I think she was using something like Magic Sculpt (sp) and to get the hollow portion she rolled the clay around something the diameter of what she wanted. I was thinking of using a thin pen or pencil but of course I need it to come off the pen or pencil when I'm done. I'm assuming I need a release agent of some kind like Vaseline etc. The rest of it I would just be winging it LOL.

Problem with a fully-lubricated former is the putty won't want to stay in place. What I'd do is dust the surface with talc, then when the GS has mostly set - like hard rubber, but won't easily me marred by handling - you should be able to ease it off. How long this takes will vary with temperature and the proportions of blue to yellow, but as a rough guide try it at about two hours to start with.

Alternatively, wait for the next morning and heat it up with a hairdryer or with hot water! That'll make it more flexible again and it should pretty easily come off; this works with stiffer putties too incidentally, particularly well when they haven't fully cured (which takes about 48 hours or so).

That really is a great idea using the extra putty to make anything rather than wasting it. That's really what I did with the nose ring but I would imagine I could come up with all sorts of bits and bobs to make.

In terms of using the extra to work on your techniques, for years I made rocks, paving, flagstones and other things that are simple and relatively fast to make. They're great practice in shaping, texturing and generally getting used to handling the putty, without a lot of "But it doesn't look like what I wanted damnit!" pressure :cute:

...thought about trying to make the center of the base look like a wooden floor (like a bar room floor).... I'm tempted to try and make the wooden floor with GS as well...

You can certainly make the flooring out of GS, lots of masters for minis have every part made from it and that could include wooden things. I'd personally prefer to use something that cures harder but I won't go into details about how I'd do it as it'll just confuse things at this point.

Einion

 

[Aoroi]

Did you buy an electric hand drill or a hand powered one? I made the mistake of using a fine bit in my black and decker, did not quite work out. Even slow speed I accidentally turned the drill on full and it went through to my finger. I now use a pin vice (real cheap, real effective) or if i have to, a dremel for metal.

 

[Hoodoo_Hermit]

Problem with a fully-lubricated former is the putty won't want to stay in place. What I'd do is dust the surface with talc, then when the GS has mostly set - like hard rubber, but won't easily me marred by handling - you should be able to ease it off. How long this takes will vary with temperature and the proportions of blue to yellow, but as a rough guide try it at about two hours to start with.

Alternatively, wait for the next morning and heat it up with a hairdryer or with hot water! That'll make it more flexible again and it should pretty easily come off; this works with stiffer putties too incidentally, particularly well when they haven't fully cured (which takes about 48 hours or so).

I will be taking your advice sir. I don't mind growing pains but I'd rather learn from the successes of others than drive myself insane lol. I'll try the talc first. I'm hoping to give the mug a shot this weekend before we go on vacation. I'll probably just use a 50/50 mix since that's what the packaging recommends unless you have a better recommendation (I'm certainly inclined to take your advice over the package).

In terms of using the extra to work on your techniques, for years I made rocks, paving, flagstones and other things that are simple and relatively fast to make. They're great practice in shaping, texturing and generally getting used to handling the putty, without a lot of "But it doesn't look like what I wanted damnit!" pressure :cute:

I took some advice on another thread and have frozen my GS to make it last long. I bought quite a large tube of it so I'm sure trying to get the right amount off of a frozen block will lead to extra putty ;p Which actually brings me to yet another question (if you have frozen it): Should I let it thaw for an hour or so before trying to get the amount I need or do folks just chip it off?

I'm SURE I'll get plenty of "But it doesn't look like what I wanted damnit!" moments hah! I'm not a naturally talented artist but miniature painting is so enjoyable and relaxing for me that I don't mind mistakes. I have a feeling I'll have plenty of rocks and such lying around. I'd actually love to learn how to make little miniature skulls since they always seem to be able to used for something.

You can certainly make the flooring out of GS, lots of masters for minis have every part made from it and that could include wooden things. I'd personally prefer to use something that cures harder but I won't go into details about how I'd do it as it'll just confuse things at this point.

Well unless it turns out to be a total disaster, if I attempt it I'll post some pictures of the WIP to get some feedback. I think the challenge will be getting the natural wood lines since I'm lacking in sculpting tools; although I understand people have accomplished some nice effects with nothing but the end of a paper clip.

Did you buy an electric hand drill or a hand powered one? I made the mistake of using a fine bit in my black and decker, did not quite work out. Even slow speed I accidentally turned the drill on full and it went through to my finger. I now use a pin vice (real cheap, real effective) or if i have to, a dremel for metal.

I bought the hand drill set by army painter since it came with 4 different sizes of drills (it was a great price too). I have yet to use it for anything but looks like I'll break it in soon. I understand some painters actually use their drill to hold on to the miniature while painting it. I'm thinking of trying this because I'd like to work with the miniature and base separate. My recent mini, I glued it on the base and then used poster-tac to stick it to a medicine bottle.

 

[Einion]

I will be taking your advice sir. I don't mind growing pains but I'd rather learn from the successes of others than drive myself insane lol. I'll try the talc first. I'm hoping to give the mug a shot this weekend before we go on vacation. I'll probably just use a 50/50 mix since that's what the packaging recommends unless you have a better recommendation (I'm certainly inclined to take your advice over the package).

Try both - I use roughly a 3:2 mix of blue to yellow.

I took some advice on another thread and have frozen my GS to make it last long. I bought quite a large tube of it so I'm sure trying to get the right amount off of a frozen block will lead to extra putty ;p Which actually brings me to yet another question (if you have frozen it): Should I let it thaw for an hour or so before trying to get the amount I need or do folks just chip it off?

Freezing shouldn't be necessary to extend the life of Kneadatite now that it's sold as two separate rolls. But presumably it can't hurt so why not?

I've never frozen GS so I don't know how hard it gets, but it might be easy enough to slice off small pieces with a single-edged razor or a craft knife. Alternatively, take a tip from cooking and pre-portion it before freezing! Then you only have to take out however many chunks/balls you need.

I'd actually love to learn how to make little miniature skulls since they always seem to be able to used for something.

Make up some small balls or egg-shapes of putty (roughly the size of the cranium on the skull) with excess and leave them to harden. Mount on a pin or paperclip wire to sculpt the face details. Should only take a few tries to get something decent, particularly if you work from a reference and not from memory.

I think the challenge will be getting the natural wood lines since I'm lacking in sculpting tools; although I understand people have accomplished some nice effects with nothing but the end of a paper clip.

One or two sewing needles and a craft knife can do a whole lot. I'm not sure if you've seen the mention in any previous threads but very serviceable sculpting tools can be made from shaped cocktail sticks, coated in superglue. I don't use these a lot any more but some pros use one or two for 98% of their work.

You could literally do the flooring with no other tools but one needle and a craft knife - the handle of the craft knife to roll the putty flat (with talc to prevent sticking), then used as a straightedge to score in the board lines with the needles. Both the knife and the needles could be used to form grain patterns, although that could be indicated purely with paint.

I bought the hand drill set by army painter since it came with 4 different sizes of drills (it was a great price too). I have yet to use it for anything but looks like I'll break it in soon. I understand some painters actually use their drill to hold on to the miniature while painting it. I'm thinking of trying this because I'd like to work with the miniature and base separate. My recent mini, I glued it on the base and then used poster-tac to stick it to a medicine bottle.

Yep, that's one the prime uses for pin vices. It's the main reason I have more than one, so that I didn't have to release a pinned part or figure in order to do some drilling, as well as to hold more than one part at the same time. Eventually though it's a good idea to make some clamps of some kind with fatter handles that are easier to hold for long periods without fatigue - at the simplest you can just mount a cork onto the end of a piece of wooden dowel or plastic tubing.

Don't forget, you could make the mug shape solid and then drill it out (in stages) to make it hollow. This may actually be the easier method.

Einion

 

[Hoodoo_Hermit]

Try both - I use roughly a 3:2 mix of blue to yellow.


Freezing shouldn't be necessary to extend the life of Kneadatite now that it's sold as two separate rolls. But presumably it can't hurt so why not?

I've never frozen GS so I don't know how hard it gets, but it might be easy enough to slice off small pieces with a single-edged razor or a craft knife. Alternatively, take a tip from cooking and pre-portion it before freezing! Then you only have to take out however many chunks/balls you need.

Darn good idea. I plan on working it with it a little bit today so I'm about to find out what happens after you've frozen it LOL. The large tube that I bought came as the two parts in one tube separated by something like aluminum foil and wrapped in plastic.

Make up some small balls or egg-shapes of putty (roughly the size of the cranium on the skull) with excess and leave them to harden. Mount on a pin or paperclip wire to sculpt the face details. Should only take a few tries to get something decent, particularly if you work from a reference and not from memory.

I'll try that today with what I have leftover from the mug attempt. I really need to look up some videos or tutorials instead of asking you a million questions that have been answered before and wasting your time LOL; but it really is appreciated!

One or two sewing needles and a craft knife can do a whole lot. I'm not sure if you've seen the mention in any previous threads but very serviceable sculpting tools can be made from shaped cocktail sticks, coated in superglue. I don't use these a lot any more but some pros use one or two for 98% of their work.

Really? Wow I've never heard of the cocktail sticks but I'll be searching for the threads now. I'm sure I have needles around here somewhere!

You could literally do the flooring with no other tools but one needle and a craft knife - the handle of the craft knife to roll the putty flat (with talc to prevent sticking), then used as a straightedge to score in the board lines with the needles. Both the knife and the needles could be used to form grain patterns, although that could be indicated purely with paint.

That's great news. If I can get the mug to look respectable then I'll attempt the flooring. It's nice to know I have everything I need to give it a shot.

Yep, that's one the prime uses for pin vices. It's the main reason I have more than one, so that I didn't have to release a pinned part or figure in order to do some drilling, as well as to hold more than one part at the same time. Eventually though it's a good idea to make some clamps of some kind with fatter handles that are easier to hold for long periods without fatigue - at the simplest you can just mount a cork onto the end of a piece of wooden dowel or plastic tubing.

I've really liked working with the medicine bottles (they're a fairly good size and very easy to hold). I wonder if I could take a cheap base, glue it to the top of a bottle and maybe pin my models to it somehow. I'm fairly certain I've seen a mention of using clamps and I'll have to look that up again.

Don't forget, you could make the mug shape solid and then drill it out (in stages) to make it hollow. This may actually be the easier method.

Einion

I think I'll be doing just that today! I think since I'm just starting out that you're right. Now when I drill out the center of the mug I'm assuming the inside will be a bit rough and I'm wondering how I might smooth it out a bit.

 

[QuietiManes]

You can sand greenstuff if it is too rough, just go lightly and it should be fine. Maybe 400 or 600 grit? The higher the better, to avoid issues. Probably only need to smooth near the lip edge though, inside being either really dark or filled with liquid, so you might be able to just trim the inside edge with a hobby knife or something.

For the wooden floor, sculpting it sounds like a whole lot of work compared to just using popsicle sticks or wooden planks. Grain can be easily cut in with a hobby knife as can wear and damage, broken edges are as simple as snapping the wood. Balsa wood would work fine, but I really dislike it, so I'd use basswood (or anything that is harder than balsa). Of course, if you WANT to sculpt it, then by all means, have at it.

 

[Hoodoo_Hermit]

You can sand greenstuff if it is too rough, just go lightly and it should be fine. Maybe 400 or 600 grit? The higher the better, to avoid issues. Probably only need to smooth near the lip edge though, inside being either really dark or filled with liquid, so you might be able to just trim the inside edge with a hobby knife or something.

For the wooden floor, sculpting it sounds like a whole lot of work compared to just using popsicle sticks or wooden planks. Grain can be easily cut in with a hobby knife as can wear and damage, broken edges are as simple as snapping the wood. Balsa wood would work fine, but I really dislike it, so I'd use basswood (or anything that is harder than balsa). Of course, if you WANT to sculpt it, then by all means, have at it.

Great suggestion. Hmm, I wonder if I can get basswood or balsa wood at Michaels? I'll have to check that out

 

[QuietiManes]

Michaels should have a wide selection of planks, dowel rods and boards. Around here, it's usually near the wooden plaques and boxes and such, but off to the back, against the wall (in other words, look around a bit if it isn't right there with the carving blocks and wood burning stuff). Don't forget to figure out what size width you want before you go.

 

[Bloodhowl]

For the wooden floor, sculpting it sounds like a whole lot of work compared to just using popsicle sticks or wooden planks. Grain can be easily cut in with a hobby knife as can wear and damage, broken edges are as simple as snapping the wood. Balsa wood would work fine, but I really dislike it, so I'd use basswood (or anything that is harder than balsa). Of course, if you WANT to sculpt it, then by all means, have at it.

A similar technique but faster than using a hobby knife or needles for the grain, is to roll out a sheet of putty to the thickness you want it, then use an x-acto razor saw to simulate the grain. Go back with needles or knife to put in knots and alter up the grain pattern as you see fit.