Help smoothing a sculpture

[StarFyre]

Hello,

Have always had this issue. I haven't done it yet but will soon once the main head part is done. (still has some work to go).
Note, the horns will be done after it hardens (baked) with apoxysculpt as I don't want to damage the rest of the head while I do them. Also, the lower jaw will be done separately as I need to make a resin copy of the head and want 3 different 'faces'...open vs closed jaw.

This is meant to be 'Arendagrost'. (offspring of Demogorgon, by Paizo for the Savage Tide campaign)
http://www.odyguild.net/bbs/attachments/20071007_4dc56c5afe6d67d69022qpHcitodcKUF.jpg

Didn't like the head, so made this one more draconic but will then add more horns, etc.

In the past i've used turpenoid, but i never seem to get that smooth finish you see on other (better) sculpture's works. I use paintbrushes to apply it on the surface, etc and i end up getting streaks, etc. Maybe i should use another material?

Any ideas?

Also, if anyone has suggestions for how to add some light texture to the skin, let me know

Note: i noticed in the front view, the dual eye cavities are a bit off...i corrected it after so the pic isn't up to date in that regard


Regards,

Sanjay

 

[BPI]

Are you using silicon clay shapers? I think they're pretty standard for smoothing, eg

http://www.sculpt.com/catalog_98/CLAYTOOLS/clayshapers.htm

After that, I don't know B.

 

[StarFyre]

yup

i use dental tools, gw sculpting tool, generic metal sculpting tools (similar to GW one) but differet shapes/sharpness, self made tools, and those type of clay shapers.

Sanjay

 

[Einion]

Softer paintbrushes? Lighter touch? Less solvent, or let it run out as you brush over the surface? Another thought was whether you're doing it exactly as in any step-by-steps or vids show; but some streaking is normal if there's been significant softening of the surface material by a liquid (same deal exactly with epoxy clays and water). It's further work that gets rid of any streaks formed by the brushing.

Turpenoid seems to be a solid choice for this, but there are other common solvents that you might like to try, plus mineral oil/baby oil, Sculpey Diluent or Softener (same thing?) and even just water.

Similar to my general recommendation for those using epoxy clays though, I would try to minimise the need to smooth this way. Sometimes a wet finger or brush is perfect for smoothing a given stage, but I don't think liquids should be relied upon as the way to finish off clay/putty.

Einion

 

[jlamarche]

I don't use polymer clay for minis (prefer putty at this scale, myself), but I have worked in polymer clays before. There's several possibilities for getting smooth surfaces.

First of all, turpenoid is a bear. It's really, really aggressive and it takes a long time for the surface of the clay to return to a workable consistency. I will only use turpenoid when I'm relatively certain I'm completely done, and even at that, I'm hesitant to use it at all because of how much it softens the clay. Instead, 91% (or higher) isopropyl alcohol is less aggressive and evaporates quickly. I've also heard of people who smooth with just a paint brush and water or spit (don't use spit! The plasticizers are toxic, even the newer pfthalate-free ones).

For large flat surfaces, you can smooth AFTER baking with fine grit sanding sticks, sand paper or sanding sponges. Wet sanding is generally better than dry, which can leave small scoring marks in the surface). To go from smooth to baby-bottom smooth, finish of with 000 steel wool. "Dry" post-bake techniques are kind of risky at this scale, however, and looking at your skull, I'd probably stay away from it in this case. But it's great for large areas that you want even smoother. I have seen people build contraptions out of electric toothbrushes (the kind that spin part of the head back and forth) and fine-grit sandpaper that allows them to smooth out hard to reach places. Also, buffing wheels on a Dremel can smooth too, but use a low speed or risk losing fine details or knocking off protruding portions.

Another technique I'll mention, but will also tell you that it's scary, is to use acetone, but use it on the baked sculpture, not on wet clay. Acetone is an organic solvent and will eat away polymer clay, even fully baked and hardened. Some people, when they've got areas that are too small or oddly shaped to sand, will put a drop of acetone on the rough portion, then immediately wipe it off. I haven't dared to use the technique myself, but I've seen it used. Scares me, but there it is. (if you try it, wear a ventilator and make sure the room is well ventilated as well; stuff is nasty)

Other than that, I think it's just a matter of practice and a light touch (which I, admittedly, don't seem to have in sufficient quantity for working this scale). Using fairly "firm" clay makes it easier to get smooth surfaces. You can leech some of the plasticizers out of polymer clay by rolling it into a sheet and leaving it between to pieces of plain white paper. Place a book on top to make sure the paper and clay are in contact. Leave it overnight, and by morning you'll have a firmer clay. Don't over do it, though, or you'll get a crumbly clay that's hard to work.

I usually finish with homemade loop tools made out of .020" music wire. I don't use them as you would on ceramics clay, where you're removing clay from the surface, but instead using them to burnish and smooth the surface. Raking with a grooved or wire-wrapped loop tool before using the loop can also help with getting a smooth surface as well.