Help with furry things from the woods

doombadger

New member
Hi all..

Can I suck some more painting knowledge out of your collective earholes?

I\'m painting up a beastman and by \'eck he\'s a furry little fellow.. Trouble is I\'m not happy with his pelt, I think I\'ve gone mad with the drybrushing and its gone all \'chalky\' like he\'s got dandruff !!

I wonder if there\'s a masters way of painting fur ?.. that doesn\'t involve lots of drybrushing or buying him a bottle of \'Head & Shoulders\'..

Thanks very much..

Doombadger
 

Calavera

New member
Umm, I usually do a scorched brown basecoat and highlight each hair with bestial brown followed by snakebite or vermin brown.
Won\'t look chalky if you thin your paints a tad.

Hope this helps :)
 

wscarvie

New member
Painting beastmen

Hi there,

You might try this, to avoid the chalkiness:

1) Base coat with a medium color in your fur\'s color palette. Use thinned paint and several layers for full coverage, rather than one or two thick layers.

2) Make a wash of a dark color in the fur\'s palette by thinning down the paint to the consistency of milk. When you dip a brush into the wash and pull it out, you should be able to see the bristles through the wash. You can try painting the wash onto your fingertip too...if you can see it settle into the creases in your fingerprint, leaving the ridges relatively light, it\'s about right. Use more than one wash that too thin rather than one wash that might be too thick. Start with washing the whole area of the fur, then go back and re-apply the wash into the recesses of the fur, on it\'s underside, etc., lending more shadow to the places that ought to be dark. Also, don\'t slather it on leaving puddles, but rather treat it like a paint. Too much wash will dry funny as the water evaporates. Sometimes the pigment will creep up out of the valleys of the figure, pulled out by the surface tension of the water as it dries.

3) Using the thinned base color from step one, \"damp-brush\" the fur. Dip the brush into the paint, wipe most of it off, then lightly stroke the fur with the brush, across the grain of the fur, working on the the main areas of the fur and leaving the recesses dark. Repeat if needed, working more on the highlight areas.

4) Lighten the paint a bit with some white (or ivory/bone if you\'re using browns), and \"damp-brush\" again, concentrating on the highest highlights. Repeat if needed, but keep the brush damp (not wet, or the paint will flow into those nicely shaded small creases, and not too dry of you\'ll get chalking).

The key is to keep all layers of the paint thin. Also, true dry-brushing (where you wipe paint off until barely anything is coming off the brush) is easier, but the paints we use tend to go all chalky when used this way.

Hope this helps,

Will
 

supervike

Super Moderator
welcome to the forums...

Nice to see you made it into the forums wscarvie!...

back on topic...

I am definately no master, but like the others said, thinning your paints is a key.

If you have already done the deed (the drybrushing that is) you might be able to take a very thin wash of your darkest color and apply it to those areas. That should help clear up the \'head and shoulders flakiness\'...

Good luck!
 

DennisMech

New member
Never drybrush anything

That\'s my motto currently. I find that almost everything (bases aside) looks better when you take the time to at least layer it. here is an example on a mini I just finished. The fur (which I sculpted myself, being an accomplishment to the GS declined such as I), was based with scorched brown, then up to bubonic brown, then to bleached bone. A wash of dark flesh was applied, and bleached bone was re-added.
 

Trevor

Brushlicker and Freak!
Use wetbrushing instead.

Exactly the same principle as drybrushing, but you use watered down paint and a lighter brushing action with just the edge of the brush. takes a bit more practice than drybrushing, but looks great if you can master it.
 
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