help with making molds for scibor-esque armour

[StarFyre]

http://www.sciborminiatures.com/en_,sculpting.php?id=571

He put a tutorial for how to do it via molds , similar to what Cyril did on creafigs some time ago.

I\'ve been trying this as a test...using baked super sculpey (making the molds with plasticard shapes and thin plasticard bent for the arcs), before baking.

Then lubricating with turpenoid, and water. Then using green stuff pushed in and peeling it out for the armour shape.

Problem, how do you ensure the same height for each pattern pressed into the mold?

And the bigger issue, when removing the GS, it starts to bend, etc since it\'s so sticky.

Should it be harder or dry a bit?

Sanjay

 

[Undave]

I worked this out when making push in moulds for plaster but with a bit of modification it ought to work here.
First off get two things of equal height that are slightlty taller than your GW base (or whatever you are putting the sculpey on) DVD cases should work perfectly. Then you need to find something else flat like a bit of plasticard or something that is the thickness that you want for your GS. Apply the sculpey to the base and place it on the plasticard spacer with the two dvd cases either side. Then, using a rolling pin, flatten out the sculpey. Sculpt your design and let it dry etc. Now when you apply your GS put the whole thing back between the two dvd cases without the plasticard under the base. When you flatten it out with a rolling pin again it should make the GS a uniform height.
If you then make another sculpt and use the same DVDs and plasticard etc the GS will be exactly the same thickness every time.

I hope you can follow all that, it made sense to me at least ???:drunk:

 

[StarFyre]

but

that won\'t help the issue of GS stretching, etc...right?

 

[Undave]

No but it will make all your pieces the same thickness. I would think it\'s just a matter of timing to get the GS at a stage where it will still bend but won\'t deform too much.
I\'m not entirely sure what turpenoid is but how about using something like mould release agent or vaseline as the GS shouldn\'t stick to the sculpey at all.

 

[Shawn R. L.]

How do you do the precise scribing though?

 

[StarFyre]

well

Shawn...scibor does it via computer, so it\'s easier for him

In my 2 tests, that Shilpa helped with in flattening my sculpey molds...i used thin plasticard and wires to make the detail for the raised areas.. didn\'t work that well (the plasticard was better)...

i also attempted writing with a sculpting tool (not gw, this other thing i have) and i believe that can work..if u have a fine enough tool...

it\'s the stickyness that appears to be a larger issue.

Sanjay

 

[Roger Bunting]

As mentioned, something like vaseline should help it not stick to the mold. As for the removing the GS, I think it\'s really a trial and error thing to see what the best length of time to remove it is.

 

[Gregor Xenos]

Easier? ......me thinks not!

Originally posted by StarFyre
Shawn...scibor does it via computer, so it\'s easier for him

As someone who has a degree in Machining Tech\' (CNC Milling & CAD/CAM design); let me be the first to tell you, \"using a computer to make molds is by NO MEANS EASIER!!\" possessed:
*however; achieving multiple results is*
It chapps me bumm to see the uneducated running Scibor into the ground over his use of CAD programs!
:flame::
I have troubles CADing 2D parts with simple cutouts & steppes, much less a 1/2\" (or less) piece of armor!
....
If you want easy, do it by hand!

*calms down, has some dip...*
All GS work should be appriciated as HARD
(try GSing a pair of nutz between a Cherubs legs sometime...)

 

[Nexus17]

Turpenoid is turpentine without the odour, afaik.

For the moulds, I don\'t see any real problem with leaving the GS to set completely. The putty is still pretty flexible when fully cured, particularly for thin sections.

Computers allow easy scaling. Make your thing 6 inches tall or 6 yards, doesn\'t really matter. There\'s a guy producing minis atm on a computer due to the ease with which different sizes can be achieved. Can\'t argue with that, he produces some really nice miniatures and with a lot of care. The issue is not about computers, per se.

Further on the same matter, when I was about 13-4 I produced a 2-level design on a plastic plate without much teaching, just part of a school project. Didn\'t strike me as too difficult, to be honest.

This isn\'t intended to suggest that what you do is easy or anything, but I\'m not sure Scibor\'s computer technique is as tricky as all that.

 

[PegaZus]

If you\'ve got $5000 laying around that you don\'t know what to do with, ya might pick up this. It\'s a 3D printer about the size of an older style laser printer. For about $1 per cubic inch, you can print out your own plastic parts, up to 5 inch cubes.

Course, what it prints is still pretty crude compared to the expensive machines, but its getting closer! I might trade that basement theater I was thinking of building for one of these. Won\'t be available until next year, but still...

Oh, and I guess I should state that I found this in the September issue of Popular Science.

 

[Gregor Xenos]

this printer described is called a STEREO-LITHOGRAPHY machine. Indeed a super cool technology! Used one in college to make chess pieces. (my rook is see-thru *you can see the spiral staircase* about 1/2\" tall)

you can see this working in the beginning of the movie \"small Soldiers\"
*if youre interested: a laser hardens photo-reactive liquid poly*

sorry bout the lesson plan, you just hit on something i know about lol

 

[Einion]

Originally posted by StarFyre
Problem, how do you ensure the same height for each pattern pressed into the mold?

Practice and trial and error.

Hey, if it were easy all the kids would be doing it!

Originally posted by StarFyre
And the bigger issue, when removing the GS, it starts to bend, etc since it\'s so sticky.

Wait for it to set up (about 75-80% of the curing period I think would be about right for this) but you could wait for the full cure if you wanted - plenty of flexibility available in GS, especially at the thicknesses you\'ll be dealing with.

Originally posted by Nexus17
Turpenoid is turpentine without the odour, afaik.

Not exactly. It\'s a low-odour solvent, commonly called, erroneously, odourless mineral spirits or OMS.

Einion

 

[Thunderhawker]

One thing that helps is to put a layer of water or petroleum jelly on the mold itself so it comes off easily. You can wipe off the excess with rubbing alcohol when its done.

 

[Necrontyrtitan]

I was just wondering, is there some kind of template for leg-guards, shoulder-pads, etc, or is it decided on a mini by mini basis?

I want to do some serious modification to my Black Templar Army, since its for display, and being able to churn out lots of armour plates and detail would be great.

On that note, how would I actually make the template?

 

[Thunderhawker]

http://www.sciborminiatures.com/en_,sculpting.php?id=571

 

[airhead]

Originally posted by PegaZus
If you\'ve got $5000 laying around that you don\'t know what to do with, ya might pick up this. It\'s a 3D printer about the size of an older style laser printer. For about $1 per cubic inch, you can print out your own plastic parts, up to 5 inch cubes.

I think THIS would do the job for about half that.

 

[Pishkin]

The way to get each piece uniform in height and width is to put guards around the detailing that will create the shape of whatever your are making - shoulderpad, shinplate, shield, etc. I think that is what Undave was suggesting. To get uniform thickness try using as little putty as you think you will need - it will probably still overflow your mold - and remove excess. Like Undave said, use a rolling pin. To keep the greenstuff from warping all you need is an intense release agent and patience, like everyone else said. If you simply can\'t wait, get yourself a little putty-oven, aka a desk-lamp on a bendy arm. Put the lightbulb as close to the green-stuff as you can without touching it and the heat from the bulb will speed up the curing process safely. As a note, be careful if you are trying to cure greenstuff attached to plastic GW models, the heat can warp the grey plastic (learned that the hard way!).

 

[freakinacage]

Originally posted by Pishkin
The way to get each piece uniform in height and width is to put guards around the detailing that will create the shape of whatever your are making - shoulderpad, shinplate, shield, etc. I think that is what Undave was suggesting. To get uniform thickness try using as little putty as you think you will need - it will probably still overflow your mold - and remove excess. Like Undave said, use a rolling pin. To keep the greenstuff from warping all you need is an intense release agent and patience, like everyone else said. If you simply can\'t wait, get yourself a little putty-oven, aka a desk-lamp on a bendy arm. Put the lightbulb as close to the green-stuff as you can without touching it and the heat from the bulb will speed up the curing process safely. As a note, be careful if you are trying to cure greenstuff attached to plastic GW models, the heat can warp the grey plastic (learned that the hard way!).

great answer for a first post, welcome!!

 

[hakoMike]

Originally posted by airhead

Originally posted by PegaZus
If you\'ve got $5000 laying around that you don\'t know what to do with, ya might pick up this. It\'s a 3D printer about the size of an older style laser printer. For about $1 per cubic inch, you can print out your own plastic parts, up to 5 inch cubes.

I think THIS would do the job for about half that.

Oh, I want that. I don\'t know what I\'d use it for, but oh my I want it.

 

[No Such Agency]

As much as I can\'t stand most of Scibor\'s work from an aesthetic standpoint, that\'s a pretty neat tutorial linked in the first post. You might even be able to modify it by scribing a piece of soapstone or something, to make features other than just lines and curves.