How do you stop your paint from being Shiny?
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Grumbold Ironbrow
Guest
What she said...
Yeah, what Katie G. said....
You can also use a brush on matte varnish as well if you don\'t like or have access to the sprays.
Cheers,
Grumb
Yeah, what Katie G. said....
You can also use a brush on matte varnish as well if you don\'t like or have access to the sprays.
Cheers,
Grumb
That\'s what I did last time I used GW\'s matte sealer - and that was my first time ever using a sealer.
What is \'oversprayed\'? Should I give it a short burst (say, 1 second long) then another burst from another angle, then let dry? Later the same procedure till I get the desired result? ???
Have a nice day,
Tobi
Well, it works for me, but I don\'t play with my models so I just use one coat of satin and one coat of matte. But I have heard of many people who do this, not just me. The key is to use thin coats. Some people prefer dullcoat to GW\'s Matte, I find that both work for me. Also, I should point out that if I am entering a model in competition, I won\'t seal it at all. I\'m not the only one, but I suspect many of those who enter GD\'s do the same, or just seal with matte only, no gloss underneath.
--Katie G.
--Katie G.
I use floquil figure flat as my final step, it dries to a dead flat finish. I\'ve also had good luck with testors dull coat. (Floquil was purchased by testors about a year ago and i\'ve noticed that it now seems to be the same as dullcote, even packaged in the same mini spay cans.) I have found GW\'s matte sealer to be a semi-gloss finish, great if you\'re only doing gaming minis, not so good for display minis. Hope this helps.
wightzombie
New member
yeah i dont sprray my minis directly i give them a drive by spraying by waving my hand by quick while spraying. also in another forum it was thought that moisture in the air especially in humid places effects this process. good stuff.
GW Matte is NOT a true matte...
... it will give you more of a semigloss finish. Some options in order to deal with this are:
seal x2 with another true matte after the GW matte. If use dullcote, lusterless flat, etc., make SURE the first coat is dry and on the way to being cured (wait a day or two...), or you\'ll end up with a chemical reaction that will turn your GW matte purple, or vice versa.
Seal it with a true matte: floquil, testors dullcote/lusterless flat, and others are truely matte finishes.
And, BTW, I have \'drenched\' jobs that I\'ve done, either by testing the matteness of projects, or by virtue of other people requesting thick sealed coats for protecting purposes. I have putting on multiple coats, and true mattes are still about as dull as it gets. I mean, no shine. Wet when the go on, dull as dull when they dry.
Just a note: when you use a true dull matte, your colors will be toned down. You will need to get used to building in a bit of extra \'highlight\' into your minis. Otherwise, you will run into some problems with them dulling down subtle highlights. Alas, a downfall of the matte.
Also: another painting tip: I usually will seal important steps midway in the process of painting, so I don\'t continually rub paint off, etc., if I need to handle the minis. (Again, another painting technique I should write a little article on, b/c this is a great technique to use, and I\'ve had some really good success implementing it.)
Good luck!
... it will give you more of a semigloss finish. Some options in order to deal with this are:
seal x2 with another true matte after the GW matte. If use dullcote, lusterless flat, etc., make SURE the first coat is dry and on the way to being cured (wait a day or two...), or you\'ll end up with a chemical reaction that will turn your GW matte purple, or vice versa.
Seal it with a true matte: floquil, testors dullcote/lusterless flat, and others are truely matte finishes.
And, BTW, I have \'drenched\' jobs that I\'ve done, either by testing the matteness of projects, or by virtue of other people requesting thick sealed coats for protecting purposes. I have putting on multiple coats, and true mattes are still about as dull as it gets. I mean, no shine. Wet when the go on, dull as dull when they dry.
Just a note: when you use a true dull matte, your colors will be toned down. You will need to get used to building in a bit of extra \'highlight\' into your minis. Otherwise, you will run into some problems with them dulling down subtle highlights. Alas, a downfall of the matte.
Also: another painting tip: I usually will seal important steps midway in the process of painting, so I don\'t continually rub paint off, etc., if I need to handle the minis. (Again, another painting technique I should write a little article on, b/c this is a great technique to use, and I\'ve had some really good success implementing it.)
Good luck!
SaxonAngel
nada
In my humble opinion...
Testors dullcoat it, baby. :] Spray or brush-on work equally well. A couple of shots over a glossy undercoat will dull it considerably. I love the stuff. (maybe the fumes are getting to me???)
Testors dullcoat it, baby. :] Spray or brush-on work equally well. A couple of shots over a glossy undercoat will dull it considerably. I love the stuff. (maybe the fumes are getting to me???)
Give your model one coat of gloss then one of matte varnish.
For gloss, car lacquer is tough and cheap.
I\'ve switched to painting varnish on with a brush though.
I now use humbrol gloss cote and matte cote. The latter needs shaking to mix the matting agent in.
Spirit based varnish is tougher than acrylic AFAIK.
Miss out the metal bits when you paint the matte varnish on. If they\'re parts you\'ll pick the figure up by then a second coat of gloss is worthwhile.
Satin cote for horses and hair/fur.
Matte varnish is matte because there\'s loads of tiny bits of stuff ( silica iirc ) in it which migrate to the surface as the varnish dries.
This means that it\'s not as hard wearing as gloss varnish because the stuff\'s weaker than varnish and a pitted surface wears faster.
If you give a model too thick a covering of gloss then a very matte coat over it will look weird. Sort of dusty.
With spray varnish I find it is difficult to control the thickness. Plus it\'s a fiddle since I\'m asthmatic and pretty much anything in aerosol is bad news.
Some paints have stuff in them can oxidise. I think this is why yanks call varnish sealer. The stuff also seals the air out and stops (eg) ferrous oxide from rusting and changing colour.
For gloss, car lacquer is tough and cheap.
I\'ve switched to painting varnish on with a brush though.
I now use humbrol gloss cote and matte cote. The latter needs shaking to mix the matting agent in.
Spirit based varnish is tougher than acrylic AFAIK.
Miss out the metal bits when you paint the matte varnish on. If they\'re parts you\'ll pick the figure up by then a second coat of gloss is worthwhile.
Satin cote for horses and hair/fur.
Matte varnish is matte because there\'s loads of tiny bits of stuff ( silica iirc ) in it which migrate to the surface as the varnish dries.
This means that it\'s not as hard wearing as gloss varnish because the stuff\'s weaker than varnish and a pitted surface wears faster.
If you give a model too thick a covering of gloss then a very matte coat over it will look weird. Sort of dusty.
With spray varnish I find it is difficult to control the thickness. Plus it\'s a fiddle since I\'m asthmatic and pretty much anything in aerosol is bad news.
Some paints have stuff in them can oxidise. I think this is why yanks call varnish sealer. The stuff also seals the air out and stops (eg) ferrous oxide from rusting and changing colour.
Flashman14
Member
Here\'s another nod to Testor\'s dullcoat! Someone said it . . .Matte is semi gloss compared to dullcoat - nothing is flatter in my experience . . .
