how do you strip resin without damaging it?

midas-kensai

New member
Hi Guys,

Topic says it already, however, one more thing: I live in central Europe, so have no access to dettol :( or simple green :( .
 

Chrome

New member
Not sure if you've got it down there but in the UK it's called Fairy PowerSpray and here in Northern Europe it's Yes PowerSpray, effing awesome at removing paint. the resin will still be discoloured from the old primer but that's life. :)
 

kathrynloch

New member
Is that for dishes? If it is, it sounds a lot like Dawn Power Dissolver which is what I use to strip resins - along with a Ziplock storage bag.
 

Bishop Odo

New member
I have used oven cleaner, but that will leach some of the chemicals in the resin and it can change its properties making it brittle. Simple green should work. How bad is it, I have also just used ultra fine steel wool to smooth out rough paint and primer spots, with great success.
 

midas-kensai

New member
As I said, there is no Simple green, Pine-sol or Dettol where I live. That Dawn power dissolver sounds very much like a product called "Drano Power" which is basically Natrium-Hydroxide, 'might work, but I had little success with it when stripping regular plastic models (styrene). The plastic of the models suffered no harm, but neither did the paint (3 layers with base-coat in-between.... dam you ebay...). I had to use my killer mix of diesel, alcohol and hydroxide. (no harm to the plastic if you don't leave the minis in the stuff and wash it off after you're done, btw.) But this mix will probably kill resin, 'should really give it a try with some resin sprue.
Does this Fairy Power Spray smell like ammonia? Is that an oven cleaner? Because it is not available here either :excruciating:.
 
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kathrynloch

New member
As I said, there is no Simple green, Pine-sol or Dettol where I live. That Dawn power dissolver sounds very much like a product called "Drano Power" which is basically Natrium-Hydroxide, 'might work, but I had little success with it when stripping regular plastic models (styrene). The plastic of the models suffered no harm, but neither did the paint (3 layers with base-coat in-between.... dam you ebay...). I had to use my killer mix of diesel, alcohol and hydroxide. (no harm to the plastic if you don't leave the minis in the stuff and wash it off after you're done, btw.) But this mix will probably kill resin, 'should really give it a try with some resin sprue.
Does this Fairy Power Spray smell like ammonia? Is that an oven cleaner? Because it is not available here either :excruciating:.

You are in a bit of a fix. Shoot, even if I offered to ship some stuff to you, it would take forever to get there. lol!

First, are you stripping acrylics? Enamel and even oil paints will come off with the Dawn Power Dissolver but it takes awhile. For the horses, I soak the inside of one of those storage bags (it's a trigger spray) and then spray the resin. I put it in the bag and seal it. I lay it on it's side and let it go 20-30 minutes and check it.

Depending on how much color if any is coming off on the bag I'll either flip it over and it starts all over again or take it to the sink and scrub it off with a tooth brush, mild dish soap and luke warm water (you don't want hot, hot water with a resin).

The last resin horse I stripped was done in less than an hour. The worst I heard was someone took a full week to get oil paint off of a resin.

I've used this method on both resin sculpts and mass market Breyer horses that have been customized. They Breyers are cellulose acetate plastic and it works just fine on them too - but again it depends on the sealer and paint. Any epoxy or Apoxie on there will come off most likely. But maybe that Drano Power might work if you give it a week and seal it up in the plastic bag. ;)

Other than that the only other paint stripper safe for plastic and resin that I know of is Chameleon but I don't know if they are still in business or if you can even get it where you're at.

I have heard of acetone eating resin so if you go that route you want to be careful.

ETA: The Dawn Power Dissolver label says it contains biodegradable alkaline cleaning agents and solvents. Contains no phosphates.

Well, that tells us a whole lot...sheesh! lol!
 
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gohkm

Active member
I'll confirm that acetone eats resin - or at least the Forgeworld resin. Lost a Nurgle Sorceror that way - expensive mistake.
 

midas-kensai

New member
Thanks for the offer kathrynloch, but you stripping stuff for me is not necessary. Thanks to the internet I could order either Simple Green, Dettol or Dawn Power Dissolver, but it is not cost effective, e.g. 1 Liter Simple Green would be roughly 28 USD.
Alkaline cleaning agents are basically non-acids :) . Drano Power is alcalic powder. And "no phosphates" means it does not function as fertilizer for algae, which would overpopulate waters.
 

jerry kurl

New member
Which country are you from - Dettol is availible all across Europe if not Simple green is about £12.00 for a litre (they will ship any where in Europe) and it lasts for ages and also dilutes to make a great house hold cleaner :)
 

fenrir1997

New member
I was completely against it, but because you're in a bit of a pickle, try the acetone-free nail polish remover?

I use a cleaning solution called Clorox Green Works, and if thats a bit weak, I use Mean Green. I don't know if those 2 options are available to you, but I just browsed my local Walmart in the cleaning isle for something that was "green" (safe for the environment) and was a multipurpose cleaner. I then did a few test runs on spare bits that were painted that I had laying around. Both of the above listed options work on metal, plastic, and resin.

Hope it helps
 

dj fatman

New member
ive had simalar problems latley when my army painter white primer coated my minis in somthing that resembled christmas window spray. i tried every thinh but the best i found is mr muscle lemon kitchen cleaner spray. it stripped plastic metal and resin including forge world stuff with little effort. a medium tooth brush got the crevices clean but i noticet the disolved primer just running off the minis as i took them out of the fluid. its cheap, aesy to dispose of and although not great for your skin it dosnt burn at all. it even got rid of some hombrol enamel but that took a weeks soak and a good scrub. a further hint is to use a citrus washing up liquid while rincing the mr muscle. it seems to shift even the stubbern stuff.
 

midas-kensai

New member
does brake fluid eat forgeworld resin? where did you buy the brake fluid (country)? I need this confirmed.

'still wondering what the guy I got one of my tanks from (via ebay) used as primer. As it is virtually impenetrable. Alcohol (ethanol), Isopropanol, oven cleaner, ultra sonic bath :dazed: and any household cleaner I used, seemed to bounce off the stuff. Even my killer mix of hydroxide in ethanol + X did nothing to it. What did get it off was soaking it in ethanol and scrubbing the still soaked stuff off with a tooth brush dunked in bio-diesel while washing over the working area with more ethanol. The process was tricky to get right as diesel eats the plastic (extruded styrene btw) when in prolonged contact. I was not 100% successful first and in some areas the stuff clogged up, hardened and "cemented" itself onto the plastic. Sanding was needed to get this rest off. I would not recommend this method to anyone without education in chemistry. And I mean more than high-school.
My guess is the stuff was car undercarriage primer.
Adding everything together, ebay, shipping, cleaning stuff/chemicals, time spent and nerves, I should have bought a new model.
 

kathrynloch

New member
Holy cow midas - what a job! It would be interesting to find out what he used as primer if it was that tough.

As for brake fluid, my info comes from the ancient days when dinosaurs walked the land - back when Games Workshop had online forums. ;) Break fluid was often used as we didn't have a good stripper for plastics but it was strongly discouraged. It all depends on the brand, some brands would eat through plastic and skin. Some were very mild and you could use them on plastics (resin wasn't very popular yet so they really weren't out there to be stripped) but were toxic to breathe and touch. Some couldn't even crack the paint period. Overall, break fluid was quite hazardous, so folks didn't like using it. It's really hit or miss because every brand was slightly different.
 

Spoontoes

New member
If it helps Fairy PowerSpray has the following ingredients:

<snip>

  • Aqua
  • Dipropylene Glycol Butyl Ether
  • Phenoxy Ethanol
  • Ethanolamine
  • Sodium Cumenesulfonate
  • Lauramine Oxide
  • Sodium Bicarbonate
  • Lithium Magnesium Sodiumsilicate
  • Sodium Silicate
  • Polyacrylic Acid
  • PARFUM
  • Tetrasodium Pyrophosphate
  • Geraniol
  • Limonene

<snip>



and Dettol:

<snip>
Chloroxylenol
Pine Oil
Isopropyl alcohol
Castor oil
Caustic Soda solution
Caramel
Water
<snip>
 
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midas-kensai

New member
thx Spoontoes for the recipes.
http://www.coolminiornot.com/forums/member.php?10012-kathrynlochChloroxylenol + Pine Oil (synthetic substitute most likely as the real stuff is too expensive to be used as detergent now) suspended in alcohol is a nice solvent.
basically the same goes for the Ethyleneglycol from Fairy. I suspect though, that most of the stuff is banned from use in household stuff in Europe. Thx anyway.


kathrynloch: brake fluid is different all over the world, as is gasoline.
e.g. Brazilian fuel contains a lot of ethanol and methanol compared to, say European. My last experiment with plain European gasoline and diesel ate the mini. Fresh brake fluid ate the plastic as well, hydraulics oil on the other hand did nothing. 'Talking about that killer primer.
Most other stuff went off easy with ethanol (alcohol). The odd stubborn infantry guy needed a bath in acetone (metal so was ok).
I guess I'll have to test some unconventional stuff myself, in order to get resin stripping right. Thx
 

kathrynloch

New member
Can you get Simple Green? A couple of friends also mentioned they were able to safely strip resins with auto cleaner/degreaser.
 
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