How to paint metall in the actuall GW Studio styl?

[Sash]

Hi,
I want to paint the new Golgfag Maneaters metall. My problem is the technik and right colour choice for the same result than the GW Studio paintjob.

I think that in the base colours are non metallpigments and all is shaded with more non metallpigments, it seems that the lights are done
with metallpigments. Please can anyone help me? Is there a tutorial out there?

Thanks and best wishes
Sascha

 

[Wouter]

Almost all of GW's miniatures are painted with true metalic paints (metallic colours with metallic pigments). I think they do it by applying a metalic basecoat, highlight it with a lighter metallic colour and shading with glazes of non-metallic colours (mostly thinned down black). I learned to paint metallic-metal this way with JBB's painting DVD and I get comparable results. I highly recomand that DVD btw, It improved my painting skills massively.

 

[Wicksy]

Yeah, i was shown by one of the 'Eavy Metal team the same technique described by Wouter - base in boltgun metal, shade with black and highlight with mithril silver. Some of them also use tinbitz as a base coat and work it up for either silver or gold. Certainly the darker steels in the ogre kingdoms stuff seems to suggest a tinbitz base. They also tend to put a very sharp line highlight at the edge of a surface, often with a blend leading up to it to really make it pop. Not really natural in terms of considering lighting but it looks great in a photo.

I would also recommend the JBT DVD. Alas you may only be able to get it from Jeremie these days and he is currently cycling around Africa. Well worth getting a copy if you can though. It taught me most of what i know about painting.

 

[Avelorn]

I think the edging looks more like wear and tear actually, so it works. There are tutorials in WD's from time to time where you can see how they paint metals.

I recon there are a lot of washes in there as well, thus the duller metallic look on the midtone and shadow colour. For the dark metal tin bitz washed with badab black could work as a base for example and mithril for highlights. The oxidation probably has it's foundation in hawk turqouis. There are probably more washes to it, looks that way on the photo at least, but at least that is a start.

 

[RuneBrush]

Some of the old masterclasses the 'EavyMetal painter would mix an opaque colour into the base colour. I've done this before - scorched brown in shining gold, black into boltgun metal and a touch of blue into boltgun too. Quite a few techniques now though are as described above, multiple coats of badab black. Also when washing, make sure you "paint" into the shadows (I believe there is a article/tutorial done by Mattsterbenz on here that would be a really good starting point for this), you wouldn't blob paint over a miniature, why would you with a wash

 

[Wyrmypops]

They do look like they've been given a coat of Badab Black over the Boltgun Metal. That thin wash over the metallics covers the shine from the metallic flecks, dulling it.
I tend to start from the other direction. Having a basecoat that has less metallic flecks present with a Black/Metallic base, then building towards more pure metallics. The dulling wash remains something to pull out if it has gone too shiny though.

 

[Sash]

Hi,
thank you very much for your help so far.

Which colours are usefull for the gold?

Best wishes
Sascha

 

[MAXXxxx]

a metallic gold, a few dark browns (staying with GW: scorchedbrown, darkflesh) to darken and glazes, maybe some purple for an extra glaze, a silver metal for highlight (mithril silver for example)

 

[Wyrmypops]

Shading gold with brown is something I came kinda late to, but it really does work. Having less metallic flecks where you want it darker an all. Old ways are still ingrained enough I often forget about that and reach for the Tin Bitz as a basecoat and shade waiting for the Gold paint to sit on top. Can always rein it in after with some brown washes over the Gold if it's gone too glittery, that'd kill off some of the metallics and dull the shade areas back down.
Silver for the highlight, you should keep it really for the extreme highlights or the whole area could end up looking more like a dirty silver than a gold.

At some point GW switched their gold paints. Used to be Shining Gold was the dirty one, and Burnished Gold the pretty one. It's the other way around now. Just have to pick whichever is more appropriate, dirty or pretty.

 

[RuneBrush]

A light purple, blue or green wash/combination of (and I mean light - you're after a tint here) can make golds come out warmer or cooler depending upon the effect you're after.

I've a recipe somewhere at home for antique effect gold (verging on brassy) that I nabbed from WD some time ago.