How to paint vehicle weathering?

farseer oliver

New member
Hi guys, I have problem with painting vehicle weathering. I read many articles and most of it are using MIG pigment, Tamiya weathering set, and Vallejo Weathering set. And most of all using airbrush.... :cussing: Currently I only have GW paints. Anybody can give me some advise?

Here\'s the link to my painted rhino.
http://www.coolminiornot.com/208664
 

airhead

Coffin Dodger / Keymaster
Pick up some \"Fine Scale Modeler\" or \"Military Modeler\" (are they still in print?) for tons of tips and tricks on armor.


Rust is a red/orange/brown (snakebite leather?) Thin a bit and touch the side of the brush to the edges for a touch of rust.

grease/grime is generally about as black as you can get. Thin some black paint and touch any lube point. Thin a lot more and add a bit of the local dirt (base color) and put some foot traffic on walkways. Go very thin, think light stain.

Dust happens naturally on my cabinet or you can accelerate it with a pastel, some sand paper and a makeup brush.

Paint chips and exposed metal happen at grab points and wear points (corners, handles, hinges)

****

Looking at your tank:
There is mud on the undercarriage and along the skirts, but none in the treads?

A blast mark or two on top from launching those rockets would be cool.

Accent the panel lines - Very thin blue black and let it gather in the panel lines.
 

Einion

New member
This is a really far-reaching query. Weathering covers a ton of ground, from simple dust to mud encrustations, water streaks, chips in the paint (just to to primer, or exposing metal), rust/corrosion, oil stains, general grime and dirtiness.

Unfortunately it\'s hard to get away from airbrushing being an excellent way to get certain effects on vehicles (things that are very hard or even impossible to do by brush). You can get close using certain techniques but they\'re not exactly the same.

So, dust? If you can\'t get MIG powders or you can\'t afford them you can get pastels from any art shop and if you scrape them down you get a fine powder that can be applied for some great dust effects. Pastel dust can also be applied wet (with water or turps/mineral spirit). A good dust effect can also be achieved simply with careful washes and thin layering of very dilute paint of the right colours, although it\'s harder to predict how things will look when the paint is dry; adding in a little talc to your paints for this can be useful

Chips? Assuming the vehicle is already in the base colour you just paint the chips in very carefully with a fine brush (primer colour / dark grey or grey-brown for exposed but oxidised metal / rust colour for an old chip / bright metallic for freshly-exposed metal) then, if you like, you can paint a fine highlight line on the bottom edges of the chips and a fine shadow line on the upper edge of the chips.

Mud? You can make a great muddy slurry with fine sand, paint and a dot of glue. This can be applied with any tools or just an old brush. You can paint it further - highlight, add a bit of shadowing - when it\'s dried if necessary (although it often looks really realistic as-is).

Rust stains? Mix appropriate rust colour, apply with a fine brush in vertical streaks from scratches, bolt heads, shot damage etc. Pooled rust stains can be applied simply as spot washes. Heavy rusting can be simulated nicely by mixing in some talc or fine sand into the paint, maybe stippling it on.

Oil stains? Mix glossy black or black/brown colour, apply where needed in streams, pools etc.

Wear on edges? Simply running a hard graphic pencil over areas of high wear can achieve a lovely worn-through-to-metal effect. I would generally recommend you grime up the model pretty much fully before you do this.

Einion
 
S

sg2009

Guest
i recommend you buy forgeworlds model master class book. everything you need to know about painting and weathering vehicles is in that book !! its a great read
 

farseer oliver

New member
Thanks guys for the help. I read a Tamiya magazine that explain how to do weathering. Its a very good article but no matter how I do it, it still doesn\'t look realistic. Its so fake..:no:

Airhead - Thanks for pointing out the section to improve.

Einion - Thanks for the explanation.

sg2009 - I did read through abit a the FW masterclass book with scanned & posted on Warseer. Everything gr8 except that they use airbrush too :drool:

Farin - The blog is nice. Maybe I can find a way to email this guy.

Dan - I did ask ppl but still it hard to get it right. Maybe I just need a step by step instruction guide for a start.

:beer:
 

Einion

New member
Originally posted by farseer oliver
Thanks guys for the help. I read a Tamiya magazine that explain how to do weathering. Its a very good article but no matter how I do it, it still doesn\'t look realistic. Its so fake..:no:
Practice. Sometimes it takes a few goes before something begins looks right, often to get it subtle enough.

Weathering is a multi-stage process, you need to build effects up in layers often, add one effect over another (dirt/grime... scratches... rust... bare metal... dust) and have an idea in your head of where you\'re heading. It\'s not really rocket science; just apply the techniques carefully and patiently.

Worst case scenario you can always cover mistakes with mud, rust or road dust! But for early attempts just go with \'less is more\' and you shouldn\'t go far wrong.

Einion
 

farseer oliver

New member
Einion.. I think I understand what you explained. I just go start with a simple weathering 1st till I master it, then I go for a more advance one. Thanks alot. :beer:
 

Ghudra

New member
I'll second the Ultrawerke blog.

If you are open to using pigments, Einion's suggestion of shaving chalk pastels is a great, inexpensive way to learn. I really like the Prismacolor NuPastel range for this.

Also keep in mind not everyone picks up techniques easily from just reading material. A DVD tutorial might be a good choice if you are having difficulty & many techniques require a significant time investment to master.

An old model hull is great to have on hand for practice and developing your own techniques. You can work out your trial & error stuff there versus messing up a more expensive model. Just prime over or strip the hull and you are ready to experiment again. ;)
 

DXM

New member
Not sure if anyone brought this up. Are you using your tanks as a game piece or static display. If it a static model them weathering with pastel and powders are fine. Problem with pastels is that once they are on, oil from your skin will bond with the powders and leave a nasty finger print . Weathering powders are not as bad but will wear off with handling. You can seal the pastels and powders but sometimes the subtle effects of the powders will be lost.
 
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