How to Photoshop your mini pics...

Legacy Account

Active member
Hi all.

Thought it was about time to knock a quick tutorial together showing you how I do this. Bear in mind that there are other ways to achieve a similar effect (you can use Extract to isolate the fig for example), but this is the one I like because it gives me plenty of control.

EDIT: I didn\'t tell you to crop the image down to start with. And before you save it, you should resize - 500 pixels high is good in most cases :)

Stage 1 - Exposure correction.
stage1.jpg

Straight from the cam. You can see I have shot onto a white background. Try to use a single coloured, light background for easier editing later on. This is a touch under exposed (I bracket my exposures but chose this one to show a Levels correction...), so the first step is to go to...

Image > Adjustments > Levels:

stage2.jpg

You will notice the large gap at the right-hand side of the histogram. It shows a lack of white and light areas in the image.

stage3.jpg

In this pic, the highlight slider is green, the mid-tone slider is blue and the shadow slider is red. What you are aiming to do is close the sliders up to the ends of the histogram as shown, giving you a complete range of tones. The mid-tone slider can be adjusted as you see fit. I gave it a tweak here. Hit OK and you have just corrected your exposure. You can use Colour Balance to correct colour casts at this stage.



Stage 2 - Sharpening
stage4.jpg

You may want to sharpen your image. I don\'t usually, but the easiest way is to use Filter > Sharpen > Unsharp Mask. It\'s all a matter of preference really, just be aware that over sharpening will create a noisy, contrasty image.



Stage 3 - Isolating the mini onto a new layer.
stage5.jpg

I use the Magic Wand here. On the Tool Options at the top of the screen, you will see \'Tolerance\'. This value can be changed to make the tool more (lower number) or less (higher number) sensitive. I usually set it at about 20. Click on the background, then hold Shift and keep clicking on the background until you get it all selected. Remember that you can change selection tools without losing your selection, just hold Shift again as you use it. Holding Alt and selecting allows you to remove parts that are selected and works great with the Marquee selection tools for removing light bits of the mini that sometimes get selected by accident.



Stage 4 - Invert selection.
stage6.jpg

Easy. Select > Inverse or Ctrl+Shift+I.



Stage 5 - Contract selection.
stage7.jpg

Select > Modify > Contract. Helps to reduce the \'haloing\' effect you often get when doing this. I usually contract by 1 pixel, but you can play around. Depends on the res of your cam too...



Stage 6 - Feather selection.
stage8.jpg

Smooths the selection, giving a more natural, less pixelated edge. Select > Feather. I usually use 1 pixel but again, have a play.



Stage 7 - Copy selection to new layer.
stage9.jpg

Easy. Just press Ctrl+J or copy and paste. It\'ll appear as Layer 1 on the Layers palette.



Stage 8 - Adding a gradient.
stage10.jpg

Grab the Gradient tool. Make sure you select the Background on the Layers palette. Double-click the gradient on the options bar at the top.

stage11.jpg

This will bring up the Gradient Editor. You can double-click on your Colour-Stops to bring up the Colour Picker. You can save out your gradients too - always worth doing! Remember that strong colours will knacker the look of your mini!.

stageeleven.jpg

Simply hold Shift and drag the gradient tool up (or down...) on the background. Bingo, piece of piss!



Stage 9 - Save for web.
stage12.jpg

File > Save for web.
For posting on CMON, you need images smaller than 100k. Use the Quality slider on the right in conjunction with the image size on the right-hand image to optimise your JPEG to as near to 100k as poss.



And that\'s it. It takes a couple of minutes to do each one once you know what you\'re doing.


img43ac11d57cad2.jpg


Part 2: Montages - Can be found HERE!!
 
N

NecroN

Guest
Oops, didn\'t notice the new forum...

Just saw this pop up under the Recently in the Forums section.
 

Avelorn

Sven Jonsson
great. you answered some of my questions about the magic wand tool! Will put that in use in a few seconds! :D feather that is..
 

Fizl

Secret Crocodile
Just tried this out

Hi matey

Just tried this out.

This was the photo before


img42c2e2ca35b84.jpg


And this is the image now


NigelGeorge.jpg


As I seem to have no eye for this whatsover - does it make a difference to the perceived quality of the paintjob? I know its exactly the same figure :D

Shaz

Edit: Please ignore that I missed that the magic wand had stolen a bit of the frogs eyes - it was my first attempt :D
 

Fizl

Secret Crocodile
I can do it only because a very nice person donated a copy of Photoshop!

(Thank you!!)

Not tried it yet on any of the pictures I\'ve photographed on a pink background though - that might be tougher.

Shaz
 

Legacy Account

Active member
It\'s a matter of preference, but the \'Shopped one looks cleaner and doesn\'t have the shadows. I\'d probably go for a more neutral colour grad though :D

Bloody good job for a first go too ;)
 

Legacy Account

Active member
Err, less saturated blue. On the Colour Picker, simply shift the selection left, towards the greyer, less saturated tones of your colour.


COLOUR-PICKER.jpg


So the colours on the right are 100% saturated, adding black to the mix bottom right. The colours on the left are 0% saturated - they have no colour, and add black as you go down.

So to achieve a more neutral, less saturated tone, move the slider to the left and up to lighten, down to darken.

:)
 

Klute

New member
Nice tute Scott.
Im just getting the hand of Paint Shop Pro.
Its the editting of the selection to remove the halo thats proving tough but Im getting there.


@Fizl......shopped one looks better. Apart from the frogs \"non\" eyes that is.:D
 

Jericho

Consummate Brushlicker
I prefer a 0.5 pixel feather myself... ;) Everything\'s spot on though.

And a quick note as well: If you\'re like me and your camera seems to wash out the midtones on your model a lot of the time, making the model look too contrasty, sometimes running the Shadow/Hilight filter helps to bring it back to reality. In my case a 25% shadow and 0% hilight modification corrects for my crappy old camera\'s defect.

That\'s similar to playing with the Levels, but it\'s easier to use IMO.

Good tutorial to include though, most of it\'s out there in one form or another but this one seems to cover the selection process better than the others.
 

DrEvilmonki

Active member
Thanks. First complete run down I have seen with step by step pics. The only problem I have now is that I won\'t be able to blame my crappy pics for my scores. :p
 

Legacy Account

Active member
Originally posted by Jericho
I prefer a 0.5 pixel feather myself... ;)

As I said, depends on the resolution of your camera. I have a particularly hi-res jobbie and it can easily handle a 1 or 2 pixel feather...:D Lower res cameras may struggle - same with the contract command. What can I say? Buy decent cameras people! There\'s only so much turd-polishing you can do with Photoshop!!

The Shadow/Highlight filter was only added to Photoshop in more recent editions (7 or CS I think). Levels have been in every version I\'ve used (right back to 2...), and this is what they were designed to do - they give you a lot of control here. Didn\'t even mention the Set Black/White/Gray Point droppers! Or the Channel selector for doing colour adjustments. It\'s such a powerful tool that it would be criminal to ignore it!

As I said, there is ALWAYS another way to do everything in Photoshop!

Submitted to the Articles section too.:)
 
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