Im a GreenHorn (tips for greenstuff)

AngryGangsta

New member
hey everyone!!

i am new to the modelling scene and am wandering for some tips on how to use green stuff and what equipment will come in useful!!!

How to use it methods would be tha bomb!

Hopefully this poll will not only help me but help other people who havent modelled a lot either!
(not the catwalk type):D

Thanks alot, feedback would be GREAT!!!!!
 

Jambot13

New member
Well I\'m no expert, but I\'m not really a greenhorn either, so I guess I can help out a bit.

For a while I just couldn\'t use Greenstuff very well at all, but a couple of purchases and one bit of advice I read on a forum made a dramatic difference to my abilities.

Get yourself some dentists tools - I managed to blag some off a friend who\'s a vet but you should be able to get sets online. They aren\'t essential but they aren\'t that pricy either and somehow having decent tools gave me way more confidence. Also buy some petroleum jelly - Keeping your tools lubed makes for far smoother and professional looking finishes.

The breakthrough advice was to use the Greenstuff in various stages of going off. Don’t try and use it the second you’ve mixed it, it’s often far too malleable and sticky. Wait until the consistency of the Greenstuff suits the job at hand.

This isn\'t an exact guide but when I’m sculpting I do flowing lines (cloaks, muscle tone and that kind of stuff) pretty much when it\'s freshly mixed, and then smooth the surface out more carefully once it\'s gone off to a fairly resistant consistency.

For tighter, sharper details (skulls, pouches etc) I wait until the Greenstuff offers more resistance (after about 30-40 minutes) so that it distorts less when tools press on it.

For really sharp edges I let it get almost (or completely) dry and basically carve the Greenstuff out to get really good angles.

If you want to do weapon blades you should probably mix the Greenstuff with Milliput, because you can then file it down without screwing up the finish.

Hope that’s useful. Good luck and I look forward to seeing your efforts.
 

Legacy Account

Active member
You can use more or less of one colour of GS to get a faster/slower set time. Also try mixing your GS with other putties. 50/50 with Milliput lets you sand and file it when dry, but still keeps a nice elasticity when soft.

Keep your tools wet.

Work small sections at a time, and allow them to set before sculpting over the top.

Latex gloves stop fingerprints if you\'re \'dick fingered\'.

Keep your eyes open for pokey/carvey/scratchy sculpting implements......
 

Einion

New member
Tools
As you probably know different people sculpt the same sort of things with different equipment so sculpting style/technique can adjust to accommodate different tools to some extent - try different types of tool to see what works best for you.

The easiest and simplest tools you can use to sculpt with are cocktail sticks sanded to shape and coated with superglue, which you then buff and polish - bearing in mind a simple rule: the smoother the surface of the tool the smoother the putty will be. For a few years these are all I used for some pretty basic sculpting, along with a couple of X-Acto blades for trimming and one or two needles. A long sharpie, a blunter sharpie, a flat wedge (sort of like a screwdriver) and a rounded tip are the shapes I found I used the most, although I tried a bunch of others - that\'s one of the advantages of these, they\'re easy, quick and cheap to make so if you need a new one for whatever reason (they can break if you press too hard for example) you can make it on the spot before a single batch of putty has set!

If you\'re a real neat freak you can coat the entire stick with superglue instead of just the tip, that way you don\'t get a gummy area where you handle it and they look dead slick and professional :D

I have two steel sculpting tools that I bought on spec some years back at a show and after refining their ends (they were much too crude for fine work) I\'ve slowly found I use them for most of my sculpting. Dentists\' tools are worth considering as are steel wax-sculpting tools that look similar - these are available in sets on eBay pretty regularly for superb prices (like 12-15 pieces for $20 or something like that) so if you\'re okay using eBay that\'s the price to use as a benchmark*.

You could also make your own tools from brass or bronze rod, some of my friends have made these and they are soft enough to shape fairly easily but tough enough to last indefinitely for our purposes. You can set the rod into an old brush handle or wooden dowel to give a better grip if you find you prefer to hold your tools this way instead of just with your fingers as you would with a needle or cocktail stick.

*I just did a quick search, here are some options:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=303&item=4381706711&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=303&item=4374036362&rd=1&ssPageName=WD1V
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=28124&item=8193749246&rd=1
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=83892&item=8193749218&rd=1
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=2594&item=5976116256&rd=1

Putty
Kneadatite/Duro/Green stuff is a very good putty for work in small scales. You might also like to try MagicSculp and Apoxie, which is available in a couple of different consistencies. Kneadatite is very tolerant of various proportions of resin and hardener, in general I like to blend it about 60/40 or 70/30 yellow to blue - makes it slightly less tacky and easier to work with for me. If I want it softer I will blend it with another putty.

Jambot mentions you can blend greenstuff with Milliput, you also try MagicSculp, A+B, Fimo, Sculpey and other things all of which will give different feels, hardness and drying time.

Techniques
I like to use saliva a lubricant - no cracks wiseacres :p You can also try hand creams, moisturisers, cooking oil (don\'t use linseed oil if you happen to have any) and petroleum jelly. If you use any of these be sure to wash the work before you prime of course.

Originally posted by Jambot13
The breakthrough advice was to use the Greenstuff in various stages of going off. Don’t try and use it the second you’ve mixed it, it’s often far too malleable and sticky. Wait until the consistency of the Greenstuff suits the job at hand.
This is cornerstone advice for any sculpting material that sets which will transition from one consistency to another - some things can only be achieved when the putty is very nearly set and will take a nice sharp mark without moving too much. Play around with it and you\'ll soon see what it\'s like - from soft and workable where you can blend different blobs together into a single area, to a waxy hardness for sharp scratches and final refinements of details.

Einion
 

AngryGangsta

New member
Thanks alot for everyones help.

Im going to go buy some and start trying keep you posted with some experiments when i have them done!!!!!:D.

Thanks Again
 

minimaker

New member
Hi,

I just updated the sculpting references list here: http://www.coolminiornot.com/forums/viewthread.php?tid=5764&pid=140813#pid140813

I\'d recommend having a look at the 1listsculpting FAQ listed there. You can also have a look at the articles there but try not to get overwhelmed by the info.

And you\'re welcome to join us at 1listsculpting. :)

To add to spacemunkie\'s comments:
- more yellow = softer mix, better for sharp bits. Lengthens cure a tad (though I don\'t use that property as I tend to use a putty oven to cure when a bit is done).
- more blue = tougher mix, nice for pushing something into shape while retaining rounded edges (like heavy cloth or skin)

Bye, Ming-Hua
 
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