MAXXxxx WIPs
- Thread starter MAXXxxx
- Start date
MAXXxxx
Well-known member
funny thing is, that I feared them the most (there is no wolf-girl or such in real life, so I could paint however I wanted to, but not fruits) then it turned out, that the whole process (not counting drying time) takes about 2 minutes.
on an unrelated note: does anyone have experience with hlj.com ?
I ordered a gundam tank, that was on backorder.
Yesterday I suddenly got an email from paypal, that I got not an invoice from hlj, but they automatically took the price. While it's ok this time (I really want that kit and would have payed anyway), but I fear a bit, that they can automatically take whatever money they want without me approving it first.
(I know it's an old company, but the ability to simply charge a paypal account worries me a bit, as in theory it could be done by anyone.)
on an unrelated note: does anyone have experience with hlj.com ?
I ordered a gundam tank, that was on backorder.
Yesterday I suddenly got an email from paypal, that I got not an invoice from hlj, but they automatically took the price. While it's ok this time (I really want that kit and would have payed anyway), but I fear a bit, that they can automatically take whatever money they want without me approving it first.
(I know it's an old company, but the ability to simply charge a paypal account worries me a bit, as in theory it could be done by anyone.)
MAXXxxx
Well-known member
It's a "ground cover material" thing from Busch.
http://www.busch-model.com/online/?rubrik=14&topnav=3&kat=104&spur_h0=1&sprach_id=en
1 A4 sheet costs between 6 and 15 euro where I buy them (train model shows, first time I had luck to get it for 6, when I bought this green one it costed 13). Much more cost effective then the grass tufts from GW/AP/Mininatur.
The best part is, that you can rip off individual tufts for mini bases (like for example on this diorama: http://www.coolminiornot.com/343551) and use them there. Until now I used it mostly like that.
I can't find it now, but my favorite is the wildland coloration, as it's a 2 color sheet (bottom is dark green, top is yellowish brown, like in the diorama). I used this strong green (summergreen) on Holo's base, because this time I found only 2 people at the modelshow who had these, one had only this green for 13 euro/sheet, the other more, like the 4 color mix ( http://www.busch-model.com/online/?rubrik=14&topnav=3&art_id=1300&sprach_id=en&spur_h0=1 ) but for 18.
I've been using the original sheet I had for almost 2 years now on bases AND I've given quite large chunks to friends including Szab (ok he got a smaller one, as it was almost used up, when we met) and there is still a small piece I can use.
Like I said, super cost effective because of the size (A4) for the price.
they also have fun things like:
http://www.busch-model.com/online/?rubrik=3&topnav=0&art_id=7416&sprach_id=en&spur_h0=1
and how can I forget the almost real series, like the pumpkin field: http://www.busch-model.com/online/?rubrik=3&topnav=0&art_id=1201&sprach_id=en&spur_h0=1 (guess where I used it
)
The only thing to look for that we'd need the H0 scale things, the others are too small for 28mm and up.
http://www.busch-model.com/online/?rubrik=14&topnav=3&kat=104&spur_h0=1&sprach_id=en
1 A4 sheet costs between 6 and 15 euro where I buy them (train model shows, first time I had luck to get it for 6, when I bought this green one it costed 13). Much more cost effective then the grass tufts from GW/AP/Mininatur.
The best part is, that you can rip off individual tufts for mini bases (like for example on this diorama: http://www.coolminiornot.com/343551) and use them there. Until now I used it mostly like that.
I can't find it now, but my favorite is the wildland coloration, as it's a 2 color sheet (bottom is dark green, top is yellowish brown, like in the diorama). I used this strong green (summergreen) on Holo's base, because this time I found only 2 people at the modelshow who had these, one had only this green for 13 euro/sheet, the other more, like the 4 color mix ( http://www.busch-model.com/online/?rubrik=14&topnav=3&art_id=1300&sprach_id=en&spur_h0=1 ) but for 18.
I've been using the original sheet I had for almost 2 years now on bases AND I've given quite large chunks to friends including Szab (ok he got a smaller one, as it was almost used up, when we met) and there is still a small piece I can use.
Like I said, super cost effective because of the size (A4) for the price.
they also have fun things like:
http://www.busch-model.com/online/?rubrik=3&topnav=0&art_id=7416&sprach_id=en&spur_h0=1
and how can I forget the almost real series, like the pumpkin field: http://www.busch-model.com/online/?rubrik=3&topnav=0&art_id=1201&sprach_id=en&spur_h0=1 (guess where I used it
)The only thing to look for that we'd need the H0 scale things, the others are too small for 28mm and up.
Last edited:
BloodFather of Kharnath
Active member
Hey thanks for pointing these guys out. I am a sucker for good scenery. I'll spend whatever if it looks good. And they look very promising so far.
I always reccomend Polak. Check them out. http://www.polakmodel.com/en/
I always reccomend Polak. Check them out. http://www.polakmodel.com/en/
SkelettetS
New member
ace painting and thanks for the apple tut, very cool!
BloodFather of Kharnath
Active member
Yes, it does appear that you are truly mastering the AB on the last few projects.
MAXXxxx
Well-known member
where did you get this idea ?
Actually because of lack of practice I'm much much worse, than I was 1 or even 2 year ago.
Most of what you see on the anime figures are 'drybrushed' pigments over a sprayed shaded basecoat.
BloodFather of Kharnath
Active member
It just looks like some very very smooth base coating. I don't have a frame of reference to go off of for your earlier work, I can just say that your recent stuff appears to be very smooth and clean. Good work.
MAXXxxx
Well-known member
Hi everyone I need a LOT of help.
I want to paint the "lord of the lion" as best I can, but I simply can't get it right. So not, that I've been tossing it around the desk for almost 2 months now.
What I'd need is a LOT of pointers what's wrong with the face. It feels off, but can't really put my finger on why and what to do about it.
anyway pics (first is taken without flash, second with):
View attachment 32678
View attachment 32679
Ohh and what I did:
- based it with green brown (idea is to mostly keep it on the temples so it has a greenish tone)
- highlighted it with medium fleshtone, then basic fleshtone, then added a bit of ivory to the basic.
- shadows (done inbetween): leather brown, hull red, very thinned GW magenta ink to give back a bit of life.
- No blue-s/purples for deepest shadows so far.
I want to paint the "lord of the lion" as best I can, but I simply can't get it right. So not, that I've been tossing it around the desk for almost 2 months now.
What I'd need is a LOT of pointers what's wrong with the face. It feels off, but can't really put my finger on why and what to do about it.
anyway pics (first is taken without flash, second with):
View attachment 32678
View attachment 32679
Ohh and what I did:
- based it with green brown (idea is to mostly keep it on the temples so it has a greenish tone)
- highlighted it with medium fleshtone, then basic fleshtone, then added a bit of ivory to the basic.
- shadows (done inbetween): leather brown, hull red, very thinned GW magenta ink to give back a bit of life.
- No blue-s/purples for deepest shadows so far.
Webmonkey
New member
the flesh tones look fine to me in the 1st photo,.. a little splotchy in the 2nd (but that may be due to light overexposure). What catches my attention right off are the eyes. His left eye looks a little brown-yellow,.. like he's got jondis or liver failure or something,.. and the right eye looks a bit "milky",.. almost like he's got cataracts and is losing his vision.
(sorry,.. I know it's a rough critique,.. and I have no room to talk (since you are a far superior painter to me). But it's what I'm seeing right off the bat. )
(sorry,.. I know it's a rough critique,.. and I have no room to talk (since you are a far superior painter to me). But it's what I'm seeing right off the bat. )
ten ball
Active member
First off it's looking very good , better than you think I feel.
At this scale the last ivory highlights need to be sharper and used sparingly, glaze over the highlights to blend in the basic skin tone with the shades. There is a noticeable 'line' from where the forehead highlight starts from the brow , the gazing will tie this together.
At this scale the last ivory highlights need to be sharper and used sparingly, glaze over the highlights to blend in the basic skin tone with the shades. There is a noticeable 'line' from where the forehead highlight starts from the brow , the gazing will tie this together.
Demihuman
Active member
Hmm, I looked at it for along time to find an issue. All i can come up with is that maybe skin and wrinkles right below the eye need to be darker. You have very dark shadows above the eye and that makes me think that the whole eye should be in shadow. Check out htis version over on P&P
http://www.puttyandpaint.com/projects/4371
I think your's is more realistic but maybe a more shadwed eye will make him look a little meaner.
http://www.puttyandpaint.com/projects/4371
I think your's is more realistic but maybe a more shadwed eye will make him look a little meaner.
Bailey03
Well-known member
The first pic looks really good to me. Flash at this close distance never seems to work well.
Lately I've been into glazing over my basic skin work. Glazes of skin tone can help with some blends, then a little but of red in the cheek and nose, some purple in the deeper shadows and under the eyes, etc. You can take a look at the roman in my WIP thread from June or July. Of course since I'm on a glazing kick that's my answer for everything.
Take a look at some reference photos. See what sort of color variation the actor has in his skin. You could add in age spots. I think his beard still has hints of blonde. And take a look at busts on P&P or the box art over at young miniatures for some good bust reference.
Lately I've been into glazing over my basic skin work. Glazes of skin tone can help with some blends, then a little but of red in the cheek and nose, some purple in the deeper shadows and under the eyes, etc. You can take a look at the roman in my WIP thread from June or July. Of course since I'm on a glazing kick that's my answer for everything.
Take a look at some reference photos. See what sort of color variation the actor has in his skin. You could add in age spots. I think his beard still has hints of blonde. And take a look at busts on P&P or the box art over at young miniatures for some good bust reference.
BloodFather of Kharnath
Active member
Agree with our friends on everything so far. Looks great. Better than you are feeling. Don't photograph with flash in most cases as it will wash out the HLs. Glaze the tones together for smoother blending in some places. And most specifically, and what hasn't been mentioned, is the bridge of his nose. While it should be dark on the sides, you have a relatively dark shade on the top of the bridge, and then a highlight right in the middle of this. The shade should be no darker than your midtone, and then keep the highlight. This is the most glaring thing to me, and if you can fix this I'd say 10/10.
MAXXxxx
Well-known member
2 new WIPs, where you people could help me, how to refine them.
On the HD mini the swords came out much lighter, than I wanted to be. Original idea was having simple black weapons, so NMM and such was not attempted.
On the lord I kept a part under the eyes darker, but now to me it looks too dark....
View attachment 33072
View attachment 33073
On the HD mini the swords came out much lighter, than I wanted to be. Original idea was having simple black weapons, so NMM and such was not attempted.
On the lord I kept a part under the eyes darker, but now to me it looks too dark....
View attachment 33072
View attachment 33073
