MAXXxxx WIPs
- Thread starter MAXXxxx
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MAXXxxx
Well-known member
thanks for the suggestions I'll look into them.
a pretty off request: if anyone has the game "SAO: Fatal Bullet" on a PS4. Can you help me with the PvP trophy? (basically I'd need to win 5 times in pvp, but I'm old and mostly just a casual player, so normally I have little to no chance)
I think it's take about 30 minutes or so, maybe even less (loading screens + killing the other player 8 times/match or doing 3mil damage to boss/match should take less than 6 minutes).
a pretty off request: if anyone has the game "SAO: Fatal Bullet" on a PS4. Can you help me with the PvP trophy? (basically I'd need to win 5 times in pvp, but I'm old and mostly just a casual player, so normally I have little to no chance)
I think it's take about 30 minutes or so, maybe even less (loading screens + killing the other player 8 times/match or doing 3mil damage to boss/match should take less than 6 minutes).
MAXXxxx
Well-known member
First some of the things I've managed to paint last year / early this year. Level is mostly ttq for gaming (altough I don't see having a game with them anytime soon).
Aliens. It's weird how grey they look on the photo. Must be overexposure, as real life they look pretty much just black/dark grey.
View attachment 72005
The Final Battle from origenarts.
Ok this is a bit of a cheat as I painted her in 2013 or 2014 (after it was released), but somehow never took a photo, this december was the time.
View attachment 72006
Mahud from LotR. I always wanted to paint one of these. Especially because of the camel and wicker-armor.
View attachment 72007
Roman Legionaires from Scibor miniatures (pretty much the Adeptus Custodes before GW released the official models). Took only 8 years to get from undercoated to ttq.... (yeah, always has something better to paint)
View attachment 72008
Titanicus models.
View attachment 72009
And a fun little project with Variable Fighter Girl VF31-Kairos. Nothing much to see here. Mostly a toy like model assembly. What I'm proud of is that instead of using the stickers I actually painted the parts, where it's colored differently to the plastic.
Will have to glue it a bit more as it comes apart too easily AND is really unstable.
View attachment 72010
Finally something that's more than a play/ttq
75mm Ajax from Infinity. After almost a full year of not painting / painting ttq max this is the first where I tried to get back to a better quality.
View attachment 72004
Esther from Nocturna Models. Play with the Nocturna Skintone (fairy flesh) and Red (warm red) paint sets. Pic is washed out, but I'm overall happy how both the skin and the clothes look like irl.
View attachment 72011
Aliens. It's weird how grey they look on the photo. Must be overexposure, as real life they look pretty much just black/dark grey.
View attachment 72005
The Final Battle from origenarts.
Ok this is a bit of a cheat as I painted her in 2013 or 2014 (after it was released), but somehow never took a photo, this december was the time.
View attachment 72006
Mahud from LotR. I always wanted to paint one of these. Especially because of the camel and wicker-armor.
View attachment 72007
Roman Legionaires from Scibor miniatures (pretty much the Adeptus Custodes before GW released the official models). Took only 8 years to get from undercoated to ttq.... (yeah, always has something better to paint)
View attachment 72008
Titanicus models.
View attachment 72009
And a fun little project with Variable Fighter Girl VF31-Kairos. Nothing much to see here. Mostly a toy like model assembly. What I'm proud of is that instead of using the stickers I actually painted the parts, where it's colored differently to the plastic.
Will have to glue it a bit more as it comes apart too easily AND is really unstable.
View attachment 72010
Finally something that's more than a play/ttq
75mm Ajax from Infinity. After almost a full year of not painting / painting ttq max this is the first where I tried to get back to a better quality.
View attachment 72004
Esther from Nocturna Models. Play with the Nocturna Skintone (fairy flesh) and Red (warm red) paint sets. Pic is washed out, but I'm overall happy how both the skin and the clothes look like irl.
View attachment 72011
MAXXxxx
Well-known member
And now the two busts I paint atm.
Both are just basecoated and roughly highlighted with an AB. None of them are touched by brush yet.
For skin I used the nocturna flesh paintset (realistic skin part of it). Fun thing is, that I used exactly the same colors and mixes for both. Just the highlight/shadow area sizes are varied according to what I wanted.
Plus a little play with surrounding colors (the creamy cloth makes the skin look darker than it really is).
The dark skin didn't show the shadows well, that's why there is a 2nd front shot without the lighting to show it a bit better.
The cloth pattern on the Ourobos bust is not my deed. It's sculpted like that on the bust. You 'only' have to paint it corretly (light dustings with AB, would be harder with a brush) to bring the pattern out.
There is one big question to the 'Fractured' bust: how should I paint the cracks? simply edge highligth as it's a skin? or some glow (green or blue) coming out of the cracks as it were a machine? Other ideas?
View attachment 72013
View attachment 72012
Both are just basecoated and roughly highlighted with an AB. None of them are touched by brush yet.
For skin I used the nocturna flesh paintset (realistic skin part of it). Fun thing is, that I used exactly the same colors and mixes for both. Just the highlight/shadow area sizes are varied according to what I wanted.
Plus a little play with surrounding colors (the creamy cloth makes the skin look darker than it really is).
The dark skin didn't show the shadows well, that's why there is a 2nd front shot without the lighting to show it a bit better.
The cloth pattern on the Ourobos bust is not my deed. It's sculpted like that on the bust. You 'only' have to paint it corretly (light dustings with AB, would be harder with a brush) to bring the pattern out.
There is one big question to the 'Fractured' bust: how should I paint the cracks? simply edge highligth as it's a skin? or some glow (green or blue) coming out of the cracks as it were a machine? Other ideas?
View attachment 72013
View attachment 72012
Lone Lemming
New member
Welcome back to the land of the living!
You can also consider the dead skin, like on this chinese vampire.
You can also consider the dead skin, like on this chinese vampire.
gorb
New member
Where did you get the xenomorph models from? IMHO I think they look gray (instead of black & white) because your camera adjusted exposure and white balance so that the median value in the image would be gray.
As far as I understand that sometimes mucks up pictures with some extreme contrast.
I like the Ajax you did, it's a great looking model and you did a wonderful paint job on it.
As far as I understand that sometimes mucks up pictures with some extreme contrast.
I like the Ajax you did, it's a great looking model and you did a wonderful paint job on it.
MAXXxxx
Well-known member
Thanks SaintToad. It's nothing special, just a few washes and drybrushes to bring out the texture.
LLemming: soo basically paint them black and edge the skin.
gorb: Prodos Games, AvP figures. To be precise:
- Alien Stalkers (the 4 on all fours) (basically the dog-alien from alien3)
- Alien Infants (the ones with smooth heads) (basically the alien from alien)
- Alternate Alien Warriors (the rest) (the ones with crested heads), They are basically a some pre-release sculpts that you can get only if you order the whole Alien bundles (the 299GBP one or the 599GBP one).
The good is that they are ready for some games and are relative fest to paint up to this level. The bad they still need their bases done and there is like anoth 200 of them in boxes... and then the marines and predators....
LLemming: soo basically paint them black and edge the skin.
gorb: Prodos Games, AvP figures. To be precise:
- Alien Stalkers (the 4 on all fours) (basically the dog-alien from alien3)
- Alien Infants (the ones with smooth heads) (basically the alien from alien)
- Alternate Alien Warriors (the rest) (the ones with crested heads), They are basically a some pre-release sculpts that you can get only if you order the whole Alien bundles (the 299GBP one or the 599GBP one).
The good is that they are ready for some games and are relative fest to paint up to this level. The bad they still need their bases done and there is like anoth 200 of them in boxes... and then the marines and predators....
MAXXxxx
Well-known member
will try to make some photos of the 4 busts that I'm working on / completed.
in the mean time some interesting pigments/paints: https://culturehustle.com/
Especially interesting:
Green and yellow from powders,
super base, coat, black 2.0 and 3.0, silver from the potion range.
in the mean time some interesting pigments/paints: https://culturehustle.com/
Especially interesting:
Green and yellow from powders,
super base, coat, black 2.0 and 3.0, silver from the potion range.
MAXXxxx
Well-known member
mehh, pics are as bad or worse than the painting... but as promised:
Aileen, mostly done. I might add a protective layer of varnish and be done with it
View attachment 72722
Cleopatra, because why focus on the busts/minis I have on the desk when I can start a new one... I really needs a matt varnish as for the neclace thing I used a gloss one to help with the lining. Other than that I also consider it done.
Snake pattern was interesting to do. At the beginning I had fear of messing up the snake, but turned out quite good. And it was really easy to do as all I had to do was paint in random patches without any planning with diluted paint, so that a ring forms on the outside (something we usually try to avoid when using thinned paint)
View attachment 72723
The last one I'm working on. In the pic it doesn't show, but the eyes are done with blue metallics. Added a bit of definition to the skin + made the cracks stronger.
All that remains is the hair/jewelry in the hair.
View attachment 72724
The skins on all three were done with the same colors, just the areas painted differ in size.
In case anyone interested in the colors:
- base: Nocturna base flesh
- hl1: Nocturna natural flesh
- hl2: Nocturna highlight skin (the 2 dark skinned busts have very little/almost none of this)
- sh1: Nocturna burned flesh
- sh2: Nocturna shadow (the "cracked" has much more of this color than the others)
Aileen, mostly done. I might add a protective layer of varnish and be done with it
View attachment 72722
Cleopatra, because why focus on the busts/minis I have on the desk when I can start a new one... I really needs a matt varnish as for the neclace thing I used a gloss one to help with the lining. Other than that I also consider it done.
Snake pattern was interesting to do. At the beginning I had fear of messing up the snake, but turned out quite good. And it was really easy to do as all I had to do was paint in random patches without any planning with diluted paint, so that a ring forms on the outside (something we usually try to avoid when using thinned paint)
View attachment 72723
The last one I'm working on. In the pic it doesn't show, but the eyes are done with blue metallics. Added a bit of definition to the skin + made the cracks stronger.
All that remains is the hair/jewelry in the hair.
View attachment 72724
The skins on all three were done with the same colors, just the areas painted differ in size.
In case anyone interested in the colors:
- base: Nocturna base flesh
- hl1: Nocturna natural flesh
- hl2: Nocturna highlight skin (the 2 dark skinned busts have very little/almost none of this)
- sh1: Nocturna burned flesh
- sh2: Nocturna shadow (the "cracked" has much more of this color than the others)
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MAXXxxx
Well-known member
I don't know, after shaking the hell out of it it doesn't look thinner to me, just the same as VMC.
Not that I really expect it to be different as the manufacturer is Vallejo.
What I really like in the Nocturna skin sets are the colors themselves. They go well together and there are some nice hard to mix colors (especially in the nocturne flesh box, the normal flesh shades exists as part of other paints (vmc, scale75, p3, ...))
Not that I really expect it to be different as the manufacturer is Vallejo.
What I really like in the Nocturna skin sets are the colors themselves. They go well together and there are some nice hard to mix colors (especially in the nocturne flesh box, the normal flesh shades exists as part of other paints (vmc, scale75, p3, ...))
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MAXXxxx
Well-known member
getting ready for the travel for eastern. I'll take some of the finished busts with me
and to have something to paint during next week this:
View attachment 72967
Hope I can paint a believable horse mini
edit: hmm, that photo looks sh*t. No idea why my phone does that blurry thing sometimes.
and to have something to paint during next week this:
View attachment 72967
Hope I can paint a believable horse mini
edit: hmm, that photo looks sh*t. No idea why my phone does that blurry thing sometimes.
Your titanicus look great. The ouroboros busts look good. The nocturna flesh set has given a fantastic finish to your skin work. A glow emanating from the cracks on Fractured would look good when finished. Also consider painting them up realistically as angry seeping fissures in the skin with blood pooled inside them. Maybe a thin trickle of blood here and there.
MAXXxxx
Well-known member
hi everyone, need a bit of advice on how to paint a dropfleet scourge dreadnought.
I have 2 ideas in mind, but I can't decide and you may have a better 3rd option.
So far:
1. prime it black
2. AB a light metallic base (VAC-Steel if what I have for this atm)
3a. going the official way: the metallic is shaded with black, then colored with green and purple ink
3b. using GA interference colors: metal is shaded with black, then whole thing is sprayed with GA-Interference colors
(4. some lightening with either pure metal medium or with GA-Iridescent pearl)
5. spines and details picked out in a really light metallic (VAC-Chrome for example from what I have on my desk)
Can't really decide which would be better.
a. should look similar to official color scheme
b. will look mostly black-white in images, but have a colored sheed to it that's different from different angles
So far I only undercoated the parts (1 main body + 20 'wing' sections) with black.
I have 2 ideas in mind, but I can't decide and you may have a better 3rd option.
So far:
1. prime it black
2. AB a light metallic base (VAC-Steel if what I have for this atm)
3a. going the official way: the metallic is shaded with black, then colored with green and purple ink
3b. using GA interference colors: metal is shaded with black, then whole thing is sprayed with GA-Interference colors
(4. some lightening with either pure metal medium or with GA-Iridescent pearl)
5. spines and details picked out in a really light metallic (VAC-Chrome for example from what I have on my desk)
Can't really decide which would be better.
a. should look similar to official color scheme
b. will look mostly black-white in images, but have a colored sheed to it that's different from different angles
So far I only undercoated the parts (1 main body + 20 'wing' sections) with black.
MAXXxxx
Well-known member
paintings are in progress, but this week I had to make a pause as it's 35-41C (95-106F) during the day (and close even at night...)
I need to take some pics of : Slaanesh character, some SM, LotR Mahud army, Dropfleet scourge dreadnought, mostly just ttq stuff, no busts or anything really display quality
Anyway I have a question in case you did this. I have a side project, where I wanted to make custom steelbooks for my PS4 games. As I don't want to freehand them I planned to use Airbrush + printed decals.
Now for the decals 2 questions:
1. which should I use? There is one that's like the modellin decals (put in water, put on surface, fix with varnish) and another, that activates with water, but have to be fixed by baking it to the surface.
2. for the second, can acrylic handle 175C heat used during the baking. It's not good if the decal is ok,but the underlying primer/white paint cracks or discolores.
For paint I used GW's "undercoat" (corax white) and Tamiya gloss white as a base.
I need to take some pics of : Slaanesh character, some SM, LotR Mahud army, Dropfleet scourge dreadnought, mostly just ttq stuff, no busts or anything really display quality
Anyway I have a question in case you did this. I have a side project, where I wanted to make custom steelbooks for my PS4 games. As I don't want to freehand them I planned to use Airbrush + printed decals.
Now for the decals 2 questions:
1. which should I use? There is one that's like the modellin decals (put in water, put on surface, fix with varnish) and another, that activates with water, but have to be fixed by baking it to the surface.
2. for the second, can acrylic handle 175C heat used during the baking. It's not good if the decal is ok,but the underlying primer/white paint cracks or discolores.
For paint I used GW's "undercoat" (corax white) and Tamiya gloss white as a base.
