mould making - how to remove Dragon Skin 30 from glass/plastic containers?

StarFyre

Active member
Hello,

My first attempt at making a mould today. Supersculpey in the lego wall thing. Poured the dragon skin in, via measuring from 2 clean measuring cups. The attempted mould is sitting there now; i hope it works. will leave it for a couple days as i need more dragonskin now (the mould was fairly large, as i had several parts in there, each on different sides).

Question -- I used the wife's good measuring cups since I didn't realize how viscous and ...brutal that stuff is. I can't seem to get it off the measuring cups now.

ANy idea how to do it, or once it dries, do i just gotta chisel it away or buy new ones for her? :(

Sanjay

ps: if i can't get this moulding to work that well; would anyone be willing to make the moulds for me if i mailed you the rubber compound, lego, etc? :) (can also pay a bit for the service)
Letme know incase. From what I can tell from this half, there are bunch of air bubbles (even with pouring fairly slowly and into one corner and letting it flow around), but really doesn't bother me much as any rough parts on the shapes inside i will be doing work on anyways so it should be ok...(I hope)
 

freakinacage

Well-known member
dunno what your dargon skin stuff is like but the mould stuff i have used is rubbery when cured so ou can just peel it off
 

mickc22

Granddad!
It should just peel off when dry Sanjay,
but you still need to buy her new ones, you can't use the for food anymore

ps. I'm almost done with the masters, still some trimming and sanding to do do, even managed two depth options in the Chariot and 50mm sizes :smile-big:
 

Bishop Odo

New member
I always leave any extra in the jar or mixing cup untilled completely cured, it a good way to check your mix to make sure it’s viable before opening the mold. Simple rule if the extra stuff is good then the really important stuff in the mold is a well. This applies for the RVT as well; the Silicone “rubber” mold should peal off nicely from the cup. Keep it clean and you can recycle into the top layer of you next mold if you can grind it, as in a meat or vegetable grinder, like I do, or chop it up. But it need to be clean, no contaminates for recycling, you can even do this with old molds that have worn out. Resin, however is a done deal, no real way to recycle except for sprues or runners in your next mold so save them as well.
 

Bishop Odo

New member
Generally speaking you have to degas RVT, which is removing the air that gets trapped in the mould rubber as you mix it toughly. This is done in a vacuum chamber, and they can be expensive, and make sure you get a duel stage pump if you do. Duel stage pumps will get you -28.8 psig, real negative pressures, and that’s what you want. Unless you get special RVT mold rubber that has a high viscosity rate and there is not need for a vacuum chamber, Smooth On has the specialty stuff and ask them question and tell them what equipment you have. Make sure you get the data sheet on what ever resin or RVT you buy, this will tell you the mix by weight or volume, shore hardness and viscosity, all these factors play into getting a good mother mold and a good end product. Smoth On also has some starter kits with direction on line that are great.
 
Last edited:

DXM

New member
Last edited:
Back To Top
Top