My first miniature: a skeleton

[Tim 121RVC]

Well, here we go!
I selected a skeleton as my first to paint miniature, because it might be a more easier one to start with. At least, for what I have in mind: drybrushing Bleached Bone, then drybrushing a mix of Bleached Bone + Skull White and finally drybrushing Skull White. From there I'll see how the rest will be painted.

View attachment 6621View attachment 6619
Yes, the pics aren't that great. I don't have a "miniature photographing studio" yet. I made a painting stick out of a piece of bamboo. Split the upper part so I could position the figure (which is hot-glued on a piece of sprue) in there quite easily. Why not on a base? Ehm, no idea. I like the painting stick, it's easy to hold and turn in every direction. I like the position of the skeleton. An open pose, so I can paint every spot without touching something close to the painting area. And it's like the skeleton says "come 'n get some!!!".
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Yeah, basecoated! Ready for the first stage. I've actually already drybrushed it with Bleached Bone, but I haven't taken pics of it yet.

So, whaddayathink?

 

[SkelettetS]

man these old gw skeletons are cheesy! that box of skeletons was actually the first i bought after my 15 year break painting minis, great for learning!drybrushing may look good irl but in photos it tend to look "dusty"... anyway, post your updates soon!

 

[supervike]

Yep, I agree, it's a great one to start with.

At some point, though, it's worth just jumping in feet first and seeing where that takes you!

 

[cassar]

i would concur with what they said ^ dry brushing does tend to look chalky if over done. as for photos n such like, i like big ones personally (poor eyesight in my old age), try photobucket they give you all the link image thingumys you need to fill the page

for example.....BOOO!

 

[MightyChad]

That black looks so good, and the highlighting is so subtle and natural. Are you sure this is your first miniature? Anyway, be sure to use washes to help tie the layer stogether and smooth them out, so it doesn't look so dusty.

 

[freakinacage]

out of curiosity, why use black as an undercoat if working towards white? it would be much easier to shade down

 

[BPI]

out of curiosity, why use black as an undercoat if working towards white? it would be much easier to shade down

Because it's drybrush practice not wash practice!

Welcome Tim121RVC :good: You'll learn as much blasting through some skeletons as it's take pages of text to cover, good choice!

Try Freak's suggestion on the next one, then as you become more familiar with the model/paints/brushes, try painting the detail in.

Have fun!

Cheers, B.

 

[freakinacage]

ahh but the washes would be messy, would need a drybrush to tidy up after! both get practice then!

 

[Tim 121RVC]

@SkelettetS: dunno, I actually don't see any difference on my miniature irl or here in the pics... :/

@supervike: true, this is pretty much a jump for me. But not a big one, as you probably mean. It will happen though, I have two orks ready for priming after this skeleton is finished!

@cassar: man, are you that old!? Kidding, I see (no pun intended) what you mean. I'm not that familiar with PB yet, I might try that soon. I think I know what you mean with the chalky look. Check my next pics. The DB-ing was done with pure Bleached Bone. I'm planning to do the next layer with a mix of Bleached Bone, Skull White and a few drops of water.

@MightyChad: Thanks! Yeah, I'm friggin' good at painting..... (LOL) No, sorry Chad, I'm not that good at all. The second set of pics is just the base coated skeleton in black. No other painting was done there, it's just the lighting/flash that probably gave you the impression of highlighting, hahaha! But thanks for the tip to pevent the dusty look.

@freakinacage: oh, that's just me thinking to be logical. I figured I'd do DB-ing only on the skeleton, so if I'd do that on a black undercoat, I wouldn't have to "worry" about the deepest areas. The black undercoat would provide the shadows in those areas and it would save me a lot of time. But hey, we'll find out in the next couple of weeks! And if more experienced skeleton painters say it's better to shade down, I'll try that on another piece.

@BPI: Yes, I will certainly try. Pfew, it'll be a lot of work, all those shades between those ribs and stuff..... Oh well, practice, practice, practice......

Anyway, here's the first layer of DB-ing:
View attachment 6658View attachment 6657
Don't mind the white on the axe and the shield. It'll be fixed later.

 

[10 ball]

Good start, drybrushing is a bit heavy. Ease up so not to go into joints.

 

[Mr.S.Marbo]

Good start, drybrushing is a bit heavy. Ease up so not to go into joints.

Yup, I'd just go over the joints with a watered down black or black ink. Also if you have a whole box of these don't be afraid to try new colours! BPI did a nice looking blue skeleton which can be seen here.

I would suggest metallics for the metal parts with washes on top to get some good shading. He's looking quite cool.

 

[Tim 121RVC]

Thanks 10 ball and Mr. S. Marbo.
Yes, I did a bit too much on the joints. Will correct that with watered down black.
Metallics for the metal parts? How about NMM? I want to try that anyway....

 

[BPI]

Go with whatever you fancy Tim, it's all about experimenting & if budget for new minis is tight you can just strip these skeles & start again. I'd say no to NMM and go with true metallics because it'll be easier but whether that's a good thing I don't know Convincing NMM requires good blending, I'd suggest a familiarity with drybrush, wash, neat basecoat, darkline, edge highlight all come first. Perhaps that just gives away my 'Eavy Metal influenced background though?

If NMM isn't daunting though, sort that skeleton out. The drybrushing has revealed the detail for you & supplied a guideline. Get some midtone paint on your pallette (Graveyard Earth or Codex Grey or Snakebite Leather) and neatly paint all of the areas that are more than 50% white. Go slowly & don't work over damp paint. You'll slowly even out all of the spotty bits which more drybrushing is only going to exacerbate. Devlan Mud wash all over. 50% midtone & 50% highlight mixed on pallette. Go back over all the areas that you've painted properly but only the parts that would catch the sunlight (assuming it's directly above him, ie, top of skull gets painted, armpit doesn't). Thin Devlan Mud wash all over. Next the highlight colour applied as fine spots/lines/pools of highlight, none of these should touch black, they should be within the outlines of the previous layer. Thin wash of either Devlan Mud or Gryphonne Sepia. Final spot white highlight, certainly the teeth, probably top edge of eye sockets, shoulder, upper knee, etc). That gives you a simple, layered highlight table top paintjob. Can take a while letting the washes dry, hence painting 2 or more at once.

If that turns out to be easy peasy then: A, I'm jealous B, dive into NMM on the weapons & armour.

Have fun :good:

Cheers, B.

PS Freak was absolutely correct above a few posts, I just didn't want to hijack your thread before you'd posted again!

 

[MightyChad]

@MightyChad: Thanks! Yeah, I'm friggin' good at painting..... (LOL) No, sorry Chad, I'm not that good at all. The second set of pics is just the base coated skeleton in black. No other painting was done there, it's just the lighting/flash that probably gave you the impression of highlighting, hahaha! But thanks for the tip to pevent the dusty look.

Yeah, I was just kidding, I knew what it was. Just being facetious.

 

[Tim 121RVC]

Go with whatever you fancy Tim, it's all about experimenting & if budget for new minis is tight you can just strip these skeles & start again. I'd say no to NMM and go with true metallics because it'll be easier but whether that's a good thing I don't know Convincing NMM requires good blending, I'd suggest a familiarity with drybrush, wash, neat basecoat, darkline, edge highlight all come first. Perhaps that just gives away my 'Eavy Metal influenced background though?

If NMM isn't daunting though, sort that skeleton out. The drybrushing has revealed the detail for you & supplied a guideline. Get some midtone paint on your pallette (Graveyard Earth or Codex Grey or Snakebite Leather) and neatly paint all of the areas that are more than 50% white. Go slowly & don't work over damp paint. You'll slowly even out all of the spotty bits which more drybrushing is only going to exacerbate. Devlan Mud wash all over. 50% midtone & 50% highlight mixed on pallette. Go back over all the areas that you've painted properly but only the parts that would catch the sunlight (assuming it's directly above him, ie, top of skull gets painted, armpit doesn't). Thin Devlan Mud wash all over. Next the highlight colour applied as fine spots/lines/pools of highlight, none of these should touch black, they should be within the outlines of the previous layer. Thin wash of either Devlan Mud or Gryphonne Sepia. Final spot white highlight, certainly the teeth, probably top edge of eye sockets, shoulder, upper knee, etc). That gives you a simple, layered highlight table top paintjob. Can take a while letting the washes dry, hence painting 2 or more at once.

If that turns out to be easy peasy then: A, I'm jealous B, dive into NMM on the weapons & armour.

Have fun :good:

Cheers, B.

PS Freak was absolutely correct above a few posts, I just didn't want to hijack your thread before you'd posted again!

No problem man, I really appreciate the feedback!

 

[Tim 121RVC]

Yeah, I was just kidding, I knew what it was. Just being facetious.

Ah, you got me there! Silly me...... View attachment 6695

 

[Tim 121RVC]

Drybrushed with a combo of Bleached Bone, Skull White and a drop of water:

View attachment 6762View attachment 6761
Did a bit too much on the teeth. So, what should I do next:
- wash Badab Black, slightly drybrush/highlight Skull White
- slightly drybrush/highlight Skull White, wash Baddab Black
- something else?

 

[10 ball]

Try incorporating some brown washes, maybe devlan mud. (thinned down). Gives a more realistic look of bone. Thats if you want. You could go for a more grey look or even blue washes. I have been messing with blue looking skeletons. BPI did a great looking blue skeleton.

 

[SkelettetS]

I think you should give the guy a wash or two, as 10 ball pointed out dont just wash black- devlan is good but even green or purple wash look cool imo. then a light drybrush followed by edge highlight.

also; mould line alert at his upper arms. just warning - people kill for less at this site

 

[MightyChad]

I think you should give the guy a wash or two, as 10 ball pointed out dont just wash black- devlan is good but even green or purple wash look cool imo. then a light drybrush followed by edge highlight.

also; mould line alert at his upper arms. just warning - people kill for less at this site

Skel is right, about ALL of it!