Next step up - advice needed

[Brandlin]

Hi guys,

Long time, but very infrequent painter and poster here.

I'm looking to up my game a bit from tone-mid-highlight but good standard tabletop quality, to making a couple of good display pieces.

I'm particularly interested in getting smoother and more subtle transitions between tones, especially on larger areas such as cloaks where the ripple, in the cloak is soft rather than pronounced. Does that make sense?

I want to paint this freebooter wizard up for a friend - in a black and baby pink colour scheme.

View attachment 24625 View attachment 24626

As you can see it has some great areas for freehand and subtle shifts in shade and highlight on the skirt and I want to put this on the back.

View attachment 24627

My freehand experience is limited to the occasional hem line, tartan check or stripe. I'd like advice on how to do this. I'm particularly interested in the almost glowing nature of the 'wave'. I have thought about getting white decals made in case all goes horribly wrong!

I also want to replace the staff with a microphone stand. I've done plenty of spear replacements for units on the table top, simply by cutting out the existing spear and drilling through the hands with something like a 0.8mm drill bit. But that usually just ends up with butchered fingers that I mask with paint ... Any suggestions on the best way to make this conversion - especially with the staff arms and body all being separate.

If it helps I use almost exclusively foundry paints and W&N series 7 brushes.

Any and all help and advice appreciated.

Brandlin.

 

[Dragonsreach]

I'm looking to up my game a bit from tone-mid-highlight but good standard tabletop quality, to making a couple of good display pieces.
I'm particularly interested in getting smoother and more subtle transitions between tones, especially on larger areas such as cloaks where the ripple, in the cloak is soft rather than pronounced. Does that make sense?
The way you need to consider to work is to expand from tone-mid-highlight to tone----mid---highlight transitions.
On a number of your figures in the diorama you've recently posted the transition is sharp and very easily spotted.
To me it looks as if you need to work with thinner paints and slower increments in colour changes.

I want to paint this freebooter wizard up for a friend - in a black and baby pink colour scheme.
This example is classic Jen Haley painting so I'd seriously recommend getting the downloadable Jen Haley Masterclass DVD from the store.
As to the Black and Baby Pink colour scheme, well I'm going to assume because of the Freehand that you're intending the cloak to be black, so my biggest suggetion is that you paint it Dark Grey and use Black as your darkest tone in the shadow/recesses.
Whatever you do though the Pink is going to be you're hardest colour as you need to ensure that the colour stays pure and doesn't turn Edinburgh Rock looking, best way for that is for every increase in Lighter tone add the same amount of water. That way you've less chance of the Chalky effect of too much white in your paint.

View attachment 24625 View attachment 24626

As you can see it has some great areas for freehand and subtle shifts in shade and highlight on the skirt and I want to put this on the back.

View attachment 24627

My freehand experience is limited to the occasional hem line, tartan check or stripe. I'd like advice on how to do this. I'm particularly interested in the almost glowing nature of the 'wave'. I have thought about getting white decals made in case all goes horribly wrong!
Looks hard at first but in reality it isn't.
With all freehand very dilute paint is your best friend, mark in the initial lines in say dilute Vallejo Blue Grey then highlight the with a mix of Blue Grey and White. Stop and allow to dry.
Now with something like Vallejo Pastel Blue and you're finest 00 wiped to almost dryness Stipple around the initial lines to get the halo effect. Repeat until satisfied and then re-enforce the the initial lines.

I also want to replace the staff with a microphone stand. I've done plenty of spear replacements for units on the table top, simply by cutting out the existing spear and drilling through the hands with something like a 0.8mm drill bit. But that usually just ends up with butchered fingers that I mask with paint ... Any suggestions on the best way to make this conversion - especially with the staff arms and body all being separate.
Drilling with a 0.8mm bit to start, hmmn a bit big.
I'd suggest cutting the staff out of the arms and making sure that you have a flat surface where the hand and staff have been separated. Place that flat surface on a flat surface which will allow you to drill through, off cut of plywood something like that. Now with a Much Smaller drill make a pilot hole and continue right through the hand, do the same with the other hand. Now swap to the right size drill for the replacement Microphone stand and carefully drill through the same holes you've already made.

If it helps I use almost exclusively foundry paints and W&N series 7 brushes.

Any and all help and advice appreciated.

Brandlin.

So some hints I hope will be helpful.
But My best Piece of advice Practice all this on a Different Figure so that when you come to the Real Deal you've got experience under your belt, and a bit more confidence.

 

[Chrispy]

What DR said.
And- pretty much but a good way to avoid finger cutting is to not get into the Yakuza in the first place...
Oh, and to avoid injury while converting minis, I suggest you get one of these:

Honestly, I have no idea of what to call it.. It came with one of my orders from MicroMark and when I asked about it, they basically just said "We goofed, keep it". But it works a treat with the rubber grips and adjustable lever to clamp it down.

 

[Brandlin]

Hi Chrispy and thanks for your reply. However when I said 'butchered fingers' I meant the figure's fingers not mine!

 

[AndyG]

More layers and retardant in the mix thin thin thin should be your mantra. Also glazing and colour contrast all play their part especially on large surface areas. To stop that transition line glazing is the one with a good quality glazing medium ie Vallejo. Tbh that's not table top quality considerably above IMO.

free hand plenty of retardant in the mix this allows the paint to be pushed and pulled without it drying that's the real problem with fine lines the paint dries on the brush before your done and it messes it up.