NMM Recipes

Quantum Man

New member
Hi I've been looking around for a few NMM silver and gold recipes but a lot of them use old paints that I can't get my hands on (snakebite leather etc) so I was wondering if anyone could post their recipes/a link here?
Thanks :)
 

Zab

New member
check out Sproket's WIP Thread or his blog Sproket's small world. He has a bunch of NMM recipies from when he did Chee Chee the steam punk gorilla. He used all different kinds of NMM from brass to copper and steel. AndyG Tenball and Tommie Soule also have great NMM recipes on their WIP threads too.
 
Feel a little snubbed that Zab didn't mention me :)

For the best tutorial ever created concerning NMM recipes, see this link: http://www.coolminiornot.com/articles/8372-experiences-with-nmm

To create a Snakebite Leather using the modern GW range, use 2 parts XV-88 and 1 part Balor Brown. Is a very good match. Then glaze over top of this black of some matt variety. Purple in deepest shadows.

Someone mentioned Sprocket's recipes. Lovely they are. However, he reccomends starting with Iridian sun or something like this. I actually found something that matches it perfectly, but cannot quite rememebeeed what it was. Maybe Bronze Flesh from VGC. The point is when basing gold do not go too yellow, do not go too brown.

Recently when doing steel I have attempted to avoid using plain grays with blacks and whites. An olive drab mixed with some brown in the shadows looks very good, especially if you use some baby blues for the hoghlights. Sounds counter-intuitive but looks amazing because the warmth and coldness of the range creates a true contrast that makes those fake sparkles go bling bling.
 

Quantum Man

New member
Wow thank you, really nice article I'll definitely be using that to help me :) Reading through it I'm a bit confused on the gold part. In truth number 2 you say that the darkest tone pure black needs to be next to the lightest tone, then you say glaze some purple over this black - surely the purple won't make any difference? Also is there a reason you're not adding pure white to the gold mix rather than ivory etc?
 

MAXXxxx

Well-known member
purple to black: doesn't feel so artificial. and yes you can notice the difference.

ivory in gold: simply put gold doesn't have a pure white reflection in real life, so no pure white glare when painting it.
 

MAXXxxx

Well-known member
you can think of it like that, but it has more to do with color-theory and how to get shades that are nice to the eyes.

Basically you can think of gold being an orange/yellow color. The complementer color for those are blue (for the orange)/purple (for the yellow). So shading with them will create a nice, rich shade. But blue is too cool that reduces the gold's warmth, so most of the painters use purple (having a bit of red it's 'warmer' than the blue) instead of that too.

And here comes the planned mood and such. Want a colder gold? use blue in the recipe, want an old, ancient feel ? use dark greens. Something really vibrant (altough it won't really look like gold) ? use some dark reds. etc etc etc.
I even like the cold-gold used in one of the PB videos (the AoS chaos lord one), having only the following colors: white, black, jap uniform (greenish-yellow brown).

and this is why I think it's impossible to have THE recipe.
- 100 painters use 100+ different color builds for the same thing
- There are too many variations even in real life (google images "gold").
- using only one type would be boring very quickly.
 

Quantum Man

New member
Thank you that's really helpful, learning colour theory is one of my new years resolutions - hopefully it will stop seeming like magic sooner or later! I love that PB video as well, shame I can't get the loaded brush to work for me but there's still so much to learn from them, I'll give it another watch to see what else I can pick up. I guess one thing I'm still not quite sure about with respect to glazes is when they are used to increase the contrast as you said, is this also used to smooth blends or is a glaze more similar in colour to the blend used for that? (Hopefully that makes sense I can't find a way to word it more clearly!)
 

MAXXxxx

Well-known member
3 uses:
- to make transitions (more contrast), I don't use them for this as it's quite slow, but most from the US (BoK, Bailey, Teronous, BAM for example) do
- to smoothen transitions, I use glazing mostly for this
- to add effects (make-up, bruise, oxidisation) /filters (fading on armor) / interest (colorful shadows, unusual transitions), on a need basis :)

btw what colors do you use for the loaded-brush? In my experience it works great with VMC/VAC/Scale75/Andrea/GW/AP inks, works less with P3, works abysmal with VGC. (no idea on reaper/VGA) .
In theory because of the binding agent used for the paint. (or at least that was the explanation for a similar technique in Jarhead's workshop)
 

Quantum Man

New member
Ok that makes sense. What do you mean by fading on armour though?

I'm using VMC now after giving up on the warcolours range, the paint seems fine I'm just struggling to find the right amount of white to add I either end up with almost no highlight or everything gets painted white lol. Ben uses Schmincke Titanium White so I imagine that's the best white for it he mentioned something about its sheen being better than other whites for the loaded brush
 
A few notes, and not to take ANYTHING away from what Max has offered so far. He has a wealth of knowledge and is actually responsible for improving my own painting in many ways.

-I use VMC Ivory for a couple of reasons. One because I dont want to use a pure white with my gold, as Max says. But really I don't care too much about this. I use it because it is a superior white that doesn't get screwy like most whites tend to by leaving a flakey finish. Ivory and VMC's other off whites are all incredible.

-yes, I paint mostly through glazes, or by a series of thin layers built up with a range of different tones to make a solid transition from dark to light. Basically, apply a mid tone, not diluted much. Then use progressively darker versions of the mid tone for you shadows, lighter versions for your hoghlights. These are all fairly diluted, though your last highlight of white or near white is almost not diluted at all. Shadows get a good deal of dilution. The colors added on to add depth, like purple with NMM gold, get the most dilution.

-I use the purple to both add depth as you imply, and contribute to the shadow transition as well. Meaning the purple makes the black even darker. A note about the black used for NMM gold. This is highly diluted as well, and the more layers you add the darker it gets. So be real subtle at first with a thin, barely perceptible layer. Then add more the deeper and darker you want it. So the purple can add depth, especially if you use it where the mini has pronounced curves or rounded areas. This may not coincide with areas of darker black, to aid in the transition as discussed. That's okay, in a few areas you may have purple without any or much black underneath.

-lately I've preferred a red brown gold. So instead of using the black, I will use GW Dark Flesh, and even glaze some more red or even green in place of the purple used for te other recipe. The most important thing you will find is how that base color looks on its own, with your shade over top of it, and with more and more white added. The last part is probably most important. Does it look shiney and bright when you start adding white to the base color?

More to follow later....
 

MAXXxxx

Well-known member
Ok that makes sense. What do you mean by fading on armour though?
something like: http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-__SWwCHQbr0/TfkvGNBLJ5I/AAAAAAAAAqA/A5Zu6YlIyAE/s1600/DSCN6501.JPG
in general the effect of the color being faded out because it stood for a long time in the sun.


I'm using VMC now ... Ben uses Schmincke Titanium White s...
hmm, VMC should work great.
As for the white... it's an artist range of paint with high pigmentation. Not really more special than that, it simply spares some time when he works with it.

yes, I paint mostly through glazes
it's not a bad way, just too slow for my attention-span. If I'd paint all my transitions like that I'd go mad and not finish anything.
 

BloodASmedium

[img]http://pnp
My two cents....Bruce lee said "take everything and leave what works for you" to clarify I've seen amazing things from amazing artists and each one has one style or technique over another and sometimes a combination .layerng as explained above by max and Benjamin,is a technique a lot of folks when they entertain the thought of better painted models this is what they grasp easily..a 5 color process that sometimes is a 9 colors of tones and shades glazed into one another..so it's starts with a base coat and glazing down to a mid shade then a deep shade then the glazeing is up with a midtone highlight into a second more intense and brighter highlight for the top tippy parts.ive used this for awhile .most of my career.now a year ago I took a seminar and was finally taught how to blend through the use of synthetic brushes which is what has raised my current level of painting .my biggest wish for any and everybody is to try everything and see which gives you what it is your "minds eye is looking for!."??????

Now it it doesn't stop there another very popular method is the loaded brush I believe that "BEN KOMETS!" uses this one and ove started to use that.now I'm no NMM maestro like the above guys . Def and especially like "BLOODFATHER OF KHARNATH" and he out of everyone is the one ide listen to on this subject as not only is he proficient at it he also can help one understand it....me I'm a TMM type of guy as it works into my unique style of mid war torn realism.but these techniques one or if I were you ,all of them need to be practiced and learned as this subtle blending of stark shades of greys and highlight gets of white def are the only way one can pull of this kinda thing.

OR YOU CAN JUST BOW TO THE TMM GODS ,SELL YOUR SOUL,AND BE HAPPY LIKE ME,ZAB.AND THE REST OF US...MUHAAAHAAAHAAA!!!
 

Quantum Man

New member
So much more great advice than I could have hoped for, looking forward to part 2 BoK! Sorry BAM the TMM gods won't get me today I really hate using metallic paints hence giving TMM a go (otherwise I was just painting minis with little to no metal at all and it was getting hard to find sculpts that I liked without any metal lol!)
 
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