Ork truk

Hasdrubal

New member
This is a project I've been working on for a couple of weeks now in order to try salt weathering techniques. The salt weathering in itself went quite quick, sprinkling salt over wetted areas, letting them dry before spraying the next paint layer, then brushing it off once the final coat had been applied.

Sorry for the quality of the pictures, it's been raining for a few days and I just can't get more light in the kitchen unless I purchase a dedicated lamp, which I am reluctant to do at the moment. I'll get better pictures once it is sunny again.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

The next step is going to be grime streaks from the rivets.

Comments are much appreciated, even though I know it's difficult to see something on the images!
 

dogfacedboy uk1

New member
The weathering looks really good mate. I have yet to try this method of doing it, I do it by hand, basically due to laziness I guess as the technique itself is not that much extra effort. I look forward to seeing this finsihed up, I think you have a winner on your hands here mate.

dfb
 

Hasdrubal

New member
I found some time today to add grime streaks from the rivets, or at least what I believe would be grime, and turned out to be rust:



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

I made a wash of Burnt Umber oil paint thinned with white spirit, then sprinkled in it different colors of pigment: Dusty Earth, which is a color made by one of the modelling shops in my area (Euromaquette for those near Paris, France), Standard Rust and Insustrial City Dirt (both by Mig Productions). After a healthy mixing, it turned out to be more rust than anything else, but I decided it would do the trick.

Most of the rivets where pinned washed with this mix, making sure I had a fully loaded brush most of the time in order to keep placing pigments on the model (on a previous experiment, I found out that if you don't pay attention to that, you quickly end up with a brush loaded with the wash, but without the pigment). After letting it dry, I went back with a round brush tand repeatedly dragged it down from the washed rivets. After a few brush strokes the pin wash starts to fade and the streak appears; repeat the motion until you are satisfied or until it no longer streaks down.

For those areas that had either been hit with too much wash, or let to dry too long, I could not streak them that way, as the wash was just too solid. I dampened my brush in thinner then wetted those ares, and faded the color until I was satisfied with the result. You can see it on the grab rail of the transport section, at the top of the "vertical" poles. Some rivets had the same problem, when I didn't have enough room to fade the color I dampened the pin wash with thinner, dried my brush then dragged down the damp mix to achieve the result I wanted. I don't want to overdo the rusting, so I will likely call it done unless you advise against it.

Next is the blackening of the exhausts and dirtying or the tyres and of the chassis,On the last model I did, I heavily dirtied the wheels which, retrospectively, proved to be an error based on the feedback I received here. This time, I'll focus on the tyres and leave the wheels red.

Speaking of the wheels, are they good enough for you, or would you recommend I had something to them? How about the crew?

C&C welcome!
 

Hasdrubal

New member
I've added dirt to the wheels, using pigments much more lightly this time compared to my battlewagon.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Instead of sprinkling generously pigments then leeting white spirit flow over those parts, I brushed Industrial City Dirt then sprayed varnish. Most of the pigment had been toned down fater it the varnish had dried, so I re-applied pigments and tried Mig Pigment Fixer this time, touching the wheels then letting the fixer move over the tyre with capillary action. It still makes most of the pigment disappear after it has dried, however the pigment starts to accumulate nicely into the recesses of the tyres.

I am wondering whether the toning down of the pigments comes from the darker surface on which they are applied (since the Pigment Fixer is advertised as not toning pigment down), or whether I don't apply enough pigment before adding the fixer. What's your experience with pigments, and making them set and stick to the model?
 
Back To Top
Top