Paint Comparison

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foosgoalie1

New member
I\'ve tried the GW Foundation paints and I can say I\'m not totally thrilled with them. They do cover well but they dry very fast, they don\'t really blend well and they are very bland tones. I likewise just use them for commissions and base colors (although I beieve thats all they are meant for ie. foundations.)
 
Dragonsreach

Dragonsreach

Super Moderator
Staff member
Originally posted by foosgoalie1
I\'ve tried the GW Foundation paints and I can say I\'m not totally thrilled with them. They do cover well but they dry very fast, they don\'t really blend well and they are very bland tones. I likewise just use them for commissions and base colors (although I beieve thats all they are meant for ie. foundations.)
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That\'s exactly what they are meant to be, an immediate coverage coat over black primer.

Never had a problem with them and I was testing them for my local store. Like all paionts they need a little practise to get used to their peculiarities but there\'s nothing wrong with a little practise.
 
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Ritual

New member
I prefer Vallejo Model Colors for most things. But I\'ve also become rather fond of P3 and for some things I prefer P3 over VMC (creamy beige/white/grey colours for instance), whereas for some things VMC still prevails (darker colours).

I use GWs metallics, though, as I think they\'re better than both Vallejo\'s and P3\'s. But, I use VMC metallic medium for final highlights as it\'s basically white in colour.
 
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fieldarchy

New member
good feedback guys. Thank you. I\'ve posted on a couple of other boards too and seem to have gotten similar responses. And something else I\'ve noted . . . no one uses the RMS paints apparently. So . . . time to try different things I guess and break out of my bubble.
 
Avelorn

Avelorn

Sven Jonsson
Just try everything out.. that\'s my tip. It depends so much on what techniques you use when blending etc. as I have said many times before and people have written in this thread.. I won\'t restrict myself to any brand, I have favourites from all brands I\'ve tried so far.

GW is what I use mostly though. I say about 60%GW and 30% Vallejo model colour and 10% the rest.

I just wished GW would make a line that all have poor coverage but go on smooth like Graveyeard earth and Kommando Khaki.. :) They are the kind of colours around that are best for blending with glazes IMO. Anyone else have tips on colours that work in a similar way?
 
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fieldarchy

New member
and see I use blending and glazing a lot. That\'s basically what I live on. The RMS line I\'ve found will only go so far though because if you thin the paint too much it starts to break down.
 
Avelorn

Avelorn

Sven Jonsson
@Meg: Hm that\'s interesting cause I\'ve heard the opposite as well from some. I have never tried RMS myself but thought of just because of that. It has to have something to do with different techniques?

But from the way you describe it.. it sounds like we are looking for the same kind of properties in paint you and I. :)

@Crooked eye: How come you like RMS for highlighting and shading? What techniques do you use? Is there a paint in GW or Vallejos line you could compare their (general) properties too.
 
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fieldarchy

New member
I\'ve been using the RMS line for the past year and it always starts breaking down too much when I thin it. You can see it as soon as you start mixing water in.

Plus the paint can be really finnicky because it has so many additives in it.

It does go on relatively smooth usually but I think the pigment is larger or something is happening to the paint because of the additives in it. I can\'t get the absolute finest point on my brush when I load it with Reaper paints. However I was stunned to see it could a perfect point with GW paints this weekend.

<shrugs> I am a bit surprised considering I\'ve heard so many good things about RMS but it\'s mainly from the Reaper Crowd and not many of them have Demons or are competition level painters.

I dunno . . . I think I need to get a few more GW paints to try them out. I was impressed with the P3s when I tried them too.
 
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Ritual

New member
P3 go on extremely smoothly because they use liquid pigment. The drawbacks I\'ve found so far is that the paint is slightly shiny (but dullcoat deals promptly with that) and that it can sometimes be hard to get it to cover over a smooth primer.
 
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Thunderhawker

New member
I may be in the minority here, but I don\'t care overmuch for RMS metallics. They aren\'t bad mind you but the silvers seem a little blue for my tase, though I do use the Ancient Bronze quite alot since its a touch lighter than GW\'s Brazen Brass (or at least my bottle is). For most of my metallics I use P3s for the golds and GW for the Silvers. A I said before I have a good pot of Boltgun that gets used nearly everyday.
 
E

elouchard

Guest
Originally posted by fieldarchy
Plus the paint can be really finnicky because it has so many additives in it.
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What you said there is the key point I think. RMS is meant to go on really easily, dry really quickly and be tough. All the additives make it much different than GW paint, which is really like an artists acrylic in some ways. The GW pots annoy me so I have been using golden fluid acrylics and they blend about the same as GW. If your style is very \"blendy\" you should probably get some GW or artist acrylic.
 
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fieldarchy

New member
yup I blend and I glaze a lot of things and the RMS just don\'t seem to hold all that well really trying to get them thin. Plus really fine details seem hard to achieve too whether it\'s subtle freehand or painting a very tiny detail that\'s part of the mini.
 
Friar

Friar

Dorks for Orks
I use rms and only real complaint I have is a tendancy when using the lighter colors watered down they can get a chalky look pretty easy, but I after reading the article Here and seeing as how he base coated his highlight and blended from there to darker I tried that and it\'s worked alot better, since I\'ve never had anything but a good time blending to a darker color then I just give a lil touch of my highlit color to give it a lil refresshing after I\'m done. Probally not the ideal way to go about it but it\'s been working out nicely on the ork I\'m painting at the moment. Also I noticed finally adding future floor wax to my water dropper helped relieve some of that chalkiness as well. Other then that I am quite happy with my rms.

Only other brand I have are two pots of gw metalics boltgun and somethin else.

only other line I\'ve been eyein up for down the road is the vmc I like their line of colors for having a very natural feel and I\'ve heard very good things about them.

Main draw back for gw is I hate their paint pots, I\'m a dropper bottle junkie :)
 
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War Griffon

New member
I tried the Reaper MS once but never really got on with them.

At the moment I have a range of all sorts that I use from old citadel colours to the more up to date GW\'s a set of P3\'s and a pile of VMC\'s and some VMA\'s which I want to try with the air brush when I buck up the courage to get it out and use it.

I have been more than happy over the years using a mix of VMC and GW/Citadel but intend to give Fluffy\'s flesh method a try at some time with the P3\'s.
 
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War Griffon

New member
Originally posted by fieldarchy
what\'s fluffy\'s flesh method?
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There is a write up for it on their blog. basically using P3\'s butter fudge and dusky flesh and then for the shading mixing in a blue or dark grey.

I have always worked my flesh tones from GW\'s dark flesh up to dwarf flesh and highlighted with elf flesh and bone and washed in some purple but although I have had some good results with this it is something I am still not happy about and it doesn\'t seem to look good and the larger scael figures.
 
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