Paint Comparison

[fieldarchy]

That\'s a purdy good article. That\'s what I\'ve been trying to learn is painting the shadows into the basecoat. It works pretty well but that\'s where I\'m running into problems with the MSPs is that they are getting very chalky if you thin them out too much for glazes and that\'s how I paint my shadows.

 

[green stuff]

Message original : War Griffon

Originally posted by green stuff
Probably the \"Boobs is what they want!\" article :

http://studiomcvey.blogspot.com/

yep that\'s the one

See people, this is why appropriate names to threads is important and helpful : finding articles on boobs !

 

[Avelorn]

Guess who has that same miniature by Fluffy standing in his cabinet *cough*

 

[Ritual]

@Avelorn
Bloody show-off!! :evil:

 

[Avelorn]

@Ritual: I might bring it when I see you next time..

And yeah when it comes to my collection of little miniatures I\'m a bloody show-off. lol

 

[Jericho]

Someone mentioned Fluffy\'s article being about P3 paints, those Butter Fudge colors etc. are definitely not P3. She says she mainly uses Wargames Foundry paint.

 

[Wren]

I use the RMS paints about 90% of the time. So far as I can tell from observing other painters at cons, I paint with a fairly thin consistency of paint for base coats, layering and glazes. The way I do steel/silver type NMM in particular uses really thin glazes, and I glaze skin a lot too. I haven\'t really ever noticed any problems thinning RMS paints other than a few colours separating sometimes (though far less than the kind of separation I got with some other paints I\'ve I tried). If anything, I\'d say they thin better for me than most other paints I\'ve tried.

That\'s not to say I haven\'t ever had any problems. I have had chalky problems with a handful of colours. The orange browns, which I think you mentioned elsewhere, and a couple of the olives. I can paint a base coat on one of those, then come back the next day and layers will go on chalky. Even just another thinned layer of the base coat colour will go chalky. Also I just can\'t get the earth and muddy browns to work for me. The paints behave fine, just can\'t seem to use the colours in a way that doesn\'t make me go blech.

I\'ve been gradually using a few more P3 paints. They do have a different feel to them for me, kind of like they\'re \'wetter\' than other paints I\'ve tried. So they\'re different to control. I\'ve painted two complete minis with them, but I still need to get enough practice with them enough to learn their ways. Still haven\'t quite got the hang of what consistency to use for smooth layers. What\'s worked nicely for me until I do figure that out is to use a P3 for a base and mix in an RMS colour for building up shading or highlight layers. (I do find the pots messy and wasteful of paint.)

Paint can be a pretty personal thing, and I know my tastes for what I find comfortable to work with have changed throughout the years I\'ve been painting. I hope you find what works for you.

 

[DarkStar]

Originally posted by Wren
Also I just can\'t get the earth and muddy browns to work for me.

I was the same way with that triad but eventually found a use for those colors, specifically.

Since they\'re so...thin, out of the bottle I usually reach for those when I want to enhance a transition between brown colors, say, fine tuning the layers of brown on a leather belt or something. Instead of just having the browns I\'m using as the main colors blend into each other, I work those RMS paints in the shadows and for use in tying together the layers.

What happens is a nice addition of an \"extra\" shade of brown to the part giving the eye a little something extra to look at. Since those paints are so thinnish, I guess the best way to describe what I\'m saying is that I simply glaze with them to enhance my shading, as they\'re ready made for that type of work.

They used to just sit there on my rack but eventually I found myself happy with the particular characterstic of that triad (watery, thin, weakly pigmented) as it\'s a good thing to have when you paint alot of browns and leathers, as I find myself doing quite often.

 

[Thunderhawker]

That is so odd, as I thinking the same thing yesterday. I use them as washes and glazes over lighter colors myself. Yesterday\'s example being a thin wash over a bone color for parchment. For plain brown I use P3 Umbral Umber.

 

[Wren]

Hmm... very interesting DarkStar and Thunderhawker. I\'ll have to experiment a bit and see if I can find a use for those too, thanks for the ideas!

 

[DaRat]

It is good to try new paints and find a paint or a mix of paints that suit your style. It\'s rare that one single tool suits everyone for every need.

good feedback guys. Thank you. I\'ve posted on a couple of other boards too and seem to have gotten similar responses. And something else I\'ve noted . . . no one uses the RMS paints apparently.

That\'s not too surprising since the Reaper MSPs aren\'t generally available outside the US and at least one of the forums that you posted on mostly has members in the UK and generally appeals to painters who use a style more suitable for army painting.

Originally posted by fieldarchy
<shrugs> I am a bit surprised considering I\'ve heard so many good things about RMS but it\'s mainly from the Reaper Crowd and not many of them have Demons or are competition level painters.

That\'s funny: I would have thought that you were in that Reaper Crowd...

 

[fieldarchy]

I used to be part of the Reaper Crowd but I am starting to broaden my horizons.

 

[Thunderhawker]

I am starting to move in the direction of the Reaper Crowd, but I still have alot of brands around.

 

[Sudden]

Recently moved from GW to VMC. (Moslty because of the \"drop\" bottles). I still use a few of my favorite GW\'s colors.