Paint set for Super Dungeon Explore models?

[caballan]

I have painted several GW mini's (massive Skaven rat army, go!) using GW paint, which allows you to get close to what the "look" of those models should be. Their paints and washes have been good so far, and the models all end up with a darkish look due to the darker colors and the black wash. That is perfect for the war mini side of it since they are meant to be dirty rats.

My next round of mini's to paint though are from the kickstarter for Super Dungeon Explores, and the base game which I am hoping to pick up soon. From what I can tell, the minis are chibi/anime style, so I want to paint them very bright, bold colors. As a fun side note, I get to buy one paint set to kick this project off, so I can get all the colors from one line if there is a box set for them. Anyone know which company would have the best "bright bold" colors for this type of work?

Also, how do you shade them when you are trying to avoid washes? I like the depth the washes added, but I don't want the colors to darken out.

Thanks for the help!

 

[MAXXxxx]

I don't really get, why would a wash darken them too much. They must be used in moderation and all will be good. Also if you are not painting opaque layers, then a white primer instead of a black help a lot (if you paint an opaque basecoat first, then it doesn't matter).
Also there is no real secret in darkening without washes, you'd just have to paint in the darker shade precisely (or use a controlled wash of a chosen color instead of drowning the mini in a black wash).

Still for your question:
For Bright colors in a set... well you'd have to stay with GW (the layer colors are pretty bright (as are the edge and drybrush ones)) or VGC (mirrors the old gw line) or P3. But I wouldn't advise getting a full set, it's never worth it, as you end up with too many unused colors.
If you mix and match, then the paintline doesn't matter much, then you can take whatever strikes your fancy.

 

[Webmonkey]

Agreed,... sets are hardly ever worth it. Usually there's 3 colors from the set that you'll actually use, and the rest are garbage and will sit on your shelf until the end of time. Just buy the colors you want independently. GW paints will work just fine. I do lots of anime style stuff (garage kits mostly),.. and GW colors work just fine. I also recommend getting some pastel sticks for shading instead of trying to use a wash. The color blends come out much nicer.

Here's a link to my stuff if you want to see what I'm talking about,...

http://www.coolminiornot.com/forums/showthread.php?55101-Webmonkey-s-Garage-Kits

 

[Zab]

GW's new line of colors is super bright. I used them to do up my version of Vandella, as Well as my Chibi version of sleeping beauty. They are great colors and you don't have to buy the whole range, just the colors you really want. Make your own washes from the paints and apply them in the shadows only. Use green or blue to shade red, or red-ish brown to shade blue or purple to shade green etc. Apply them only in the recesses and shadowed areas as the others have said. Andrea and scale 75 have some nice vibrant colors to as does P3 and reaper.

Cheers!

 

[caballan]

Thanks! I was not expecting GW to come back as several of the threads I read seem to skip over them. Guess though when you limit it to bright and bold they start to come to the top.

Not sure what a garage kit is (google was not helpful on that one) but it looks cool. However, would the pastel shading be hard to do on a 28mm figure?

 

[Webmonkey]

its actually super easy. just place a dab of the powder with one brush, then smooth with a second.

 

[MAXXxxx]

its actually super easy. just place a dab of the powder with one brush, then smooth with a second.

while it's a great thing for 1/6 figures and so (like most GK-s), but for a 28mm... a lot harder to controll.
I would stay with paints thinned to do the shading here, especially as most of the SDE figures are basically a head and some extras.

 

[Webmonkey]

while it's a great thing for 1/6 figures and so (like most GK-s), but for a 28mm... a lot harder to controll.
I would stay with paints thinned to do the shading here, especially as most of the SDE figures are basically a head and some extras.

True,.. some brush control is required. But I think it's a matter of perspective. For me, its worth learning the brush control, just to get the shading done in a single step. Rather then have to have the brush control to do 37 layers of paint to achieve the same look. (ok,. a bit of an exaggeration but you get the point) But the again,.. to each their own.

Best Advice Ever: Remember,... there's no ~wrong~ way to do it... just as long as you are happy with the end result.