generulpoleaxe
New member
hopefully this will make sense and not end up as jumbled garbage.
okay, here goes
i decided to do a pre heresy unit as i always prefered the look of them from my rogue trader days (i\'m not that old, i just started young)
first off, was prep work blah blah blah (we have all done that crap hundreds of times)
then whilst the black undercoat was drying, i started the bases.
on the bases were put two crosses made from paper clips (the modellers friend)
then some brass etched barbed wire (the proper stuff that actualy cuts you and isn\'t child friendly ) was wrapped around an old brush to create a coil.
i then threaded another (longer) piece of paper clip through this and placed it onto the cross pieces which had already been glued to the base.
these pieces where then painted at the same time as the metals on the terminators using the same techniques.
the armour of the space puppies was base coated with londen grey vmc (a bluey grey, darker than spacewolves)
i then used a german grey (off black) and started to wet blend the german grey and london grey to create fast and smooth blends on the armour.
the only problem with wet blending is that it often leaves little contrast and to sort this out once the paint had cured i then used black glazes to enhance the shading.
any areas that became black had a dark brown (scorched brown would be a similar shade) wash used to give a little extra depth and break up the blackness. (a trick i picked up from rackhams painters)
the edges of the armour where then touched up with london grey and then a thinned glossy white vmc was then used to bring out the highlights a little more (the glossy white doesn\'t go chalkiy when used in this manner, unlike other whites)
then the metals where started
all of the metals that werent a symbol (guns, piping etc) were base coated with boltgun with an equal amount of metal medium mixed in (this makes it as bright and shiny as enamel paints that historical modellers sometime use)
then the shading began,
first off, a couple of blue glazes were used covering all of the metal (this helps how the final highlights look)
purple was gradualy added to this until the glaze became pure purple. all the while shading the metals.
a chain mail and metal medium mix was then used to tweek the highlight areas.
then a smoke wash was used to help weather the metals.
purple was gradualy mixed in and the shading enhanced.
mithril with an equal mix of metal medium was then used to tweek the highlights.
black glazes where then used to give the shadows extra contrast where needed to help the highlights stand out.
the glare spots where then tweeked with a mithril and metal medium mix.
now the yellow areas,
i base coated these with a yellow ochre vmc and then started to highlight them by adding pale sand (bleach bone is very similar)
then the shading began, i used a glaze made up of orange and started to gradualy add orangy browns until i was satified. (vermin and beast brown would be similar colours)
the black stripes where done before i started to highlight as this made it easier for me to correct mistakes.
then the sumbols where painted,
these were base coated with an equal mix of black and boltgun.
i then glazed them with blue then purple then black (each glaze acted like shading)
then i highlighted with boltgun
followed by chain mail with glare spots tweeked with a little mithril.
a black glaze was then used to smooth things.
the fur and leather bits where basecoated in charred brown (similar to scorched) and beasty brown was added for highlights followed by pale sand (similar to bleach bone)
a purple glaze was then used to add depth to the darkest shadows.
the leatherskin on the back of the pelt was base coated in charred brown with beasty brown added, bronzed flesh was then added to this with a touch of ivory (off white) to bring out the final highlights.
yet again that lovely purple was used to add depth to the shadows.
the green gems were base coated with scurf green (vallejo game colour) and then jade green added for highlights followed by white being added.
the eye pieces where painted a dark red with a light red added followed by a yellowy brown for the final highlits.
a pure red in was then painted over them and when dry the glare spots (white) where added.
now the weathering begins,
gently place little black lines and small patches on various edges where you wish to represent scratches, paint chips and bullet holes.
then go over them with bolt gun leaving a tiny amount of black showing.
now add a little dark brown (beatsy) into the older scracthes and chips.
then underneath the chips and scratches paint a very thin white line (use thiined paint) to help it stand out.
now you can add rust patches with various browns and oranges as well as leaks, oil stains etc.
just reember, their is always more paint left where the brush finishes it\'s stroke, so paint the oil/rust streak going from the end of the drip to it\'s source.
the grass was then attached to the base in clumps, washed with a mid tone green and when dry, dry brushed with khaki.
the terminators (space puppies) where then attached to there base (please note that all of the parts where painted then assembled) and the mud making began.
a mix of pva, very fine flock (it\'s like powder) and mig pigments dark mud was mixed with water.
the mix should look like limpy diohrea (easiest way to describe it, sorry)
once dry (it takes hours, it realy does)
paint any areas where mud will have spashed onto and dryed with a mix of european soil pigment and water.
once dry paint a thick mix (think of thick soup) of dark mud pigment, gloss varnish and water over all of your lovely textured mud leaving the dryed mud effect (european soil) alone. (the gloss varnish stops the colour from lightening once dry)
once dry give the patches where water will build up a couple of coats of gloss varnish to create puddles.
then put a couple of little splatters of blood (tamiya clear red) on the barbed wire.
done.
hope that helps people
