U
U4-Welcome
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Painting Faces--ARGH!!!
- Thread starter beh
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tabithatan
New member
eyes are a big pain... I have loads of painted minis with cock-eyed looks .....
these days I just use a fine 10/0 brush to dot them. But when I get lazy..... which is pretty darned often, I sharpen up a used kebab stick and dot. the long handle of the stick helps to balance it properly on ur hand better than toothpicks.
these days I just use a fine 10/0 brush to dot them. But when I get lazy..... which is pretty darned often, I sharpen up a used kebab stick and dot. the long handle of the stick helps to balance it properly on ur hand better than toothpicks.
Originally posted by U4-Welcome
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Actually, it\'s double-posted accidentally because my browser FUBARed and gave me a 404 error when I hit the \"Post Reply\" button.
Wren
Member
Seems like eyes are something that everyone develops a personal technique for. I found a lot of suggestions on here and other sources very helpful, and eventually settled on this technique.
Like most, I now start with the eyes. After priming (white or gray), I paint the eye area with an off-white (usually Reaper\'s linen white). Then I paint in the irises pretty much as Dragonreach described. I use black sometimes, I\'ve also found a very dark green or brown to work. Haven\'t had much luck with dark blue yet, but I need to try out a few more paints, I think.
Then I paint the outline around the eyeballs. I find a thinned dark reddish-brown looks a little more subtle and natural than black on lighter skin tones. (I\'ve gone too subtle with this at times, though. Which photographs fine, but loses impact for in the hand viewing.) I only worry about outlining the eye nicely, the brown that goes all over the rest of the face gets cleaned up when the base coat of flesh gets laid down.
It usually still takes me a few tries, or needs some touch up here and there as I go, but that\'s what works for me, for what it\'s worth.
I dunno if it\'s weird or not, but I usually don\'t finish up the eye and mouth details (shading/darkening, or makeup on female figs) until quite near the end of painting the fig. For makeup particularly, I like to see how the clothing has come out before finalizing the makeup colours.
Like most, I now start with the eyes. After priming (white or gray), I paint the eye area with an off-white (usually Reaper\'s linen white). Then I paint in the irises pretty much as Dragonreach described. I use black sometimes, I\'ve also found a very dark green or brown to work. Haven\'t had much luck with dark blue yet, but I need to try out a few more paints, I think.
Then I paint the outline around the eyeballs. I find a thinned dark reddish-brown looks a little more subtle and natural than black on lighter skin tones. (I\'ve gone too subtle with this at times, though. Which photographs fine, but loses impact for in the hand viewing.) I only worry about outlining the eye nicely, the brown that goes all over the rest of the face gets cleaned up when the base coat of flesh gets laid down.
It usually still takes me a few tries, or needs some touch up here and there as I go, but that\'s what works for me, for what it\'s worth.
I dunno if it\'s weird or not, but I usually don\'t finish up the eye and mouth details (shading/darkening, or makeup on female figs) until quite near the end of painting the fig. For makeup particularly, I like to see how the clothing has come out before finalizing the makeup colours.
Wren:
Colour Frequency tends to become distorted due to distance and the scale of the model is representing the distance. While looking at someone with very Dark Blue eyes in real life will stand out, at 1/60th that would just become black. The same is true of other colours such as Brown & Hazel
.
If you have a drawing program (or Photoshop) try a circle in Dark Blue and then reduce it to the size of an eye on a 28mm figure and you should be able to see what I mean.
@Itchy: Well done on the eyes, glad to be of help to someone (at last).
I don\'t know if using dark blue would be all that effective considering the scale we normally paint in. They may just look black. Which is why for Blue eyes I tend use thinned Shadow Grey.
Colour Frequency tends to become distorted due to distance and the scale of the model is representing the distance. While looking at someone with very Dark Blue eyes in real life will stand out, at 1/60th that would just become black. The same is true of other colours such as Brown & Hazel
.
If you have a drawing program (or Photoshop) try a circle in Dark Blue and then reduce it to the size of an eye on a 28mm figure and you should be able to see what I mean.
@Itchy: Well done on the eyes, glad to be of help to someone (at last).
Jabberwocky
New member
Micron Pens
Hello all. After months of lurking, I decided to come out and give my 2 cents. I had read at Jen Haley\'s site about Micron pens. I bought a pack of six of them and have found them to be very useful. They provide the fine point that can be hard to obtain with a brush sometimes. They come in various sizes, but the 005 (or .20 mm nib) has worked well for me. They can be used for writing and such for scrolls, books, etc. as well. The other advantage is they provide a circular dot, which helps to avoid the \"cat-eye\". The web site for the pens is www.gellyroll.com. In the US, I found them at Michael\'s.
Hope this helps someone. I have learned so much from this site!
*Returns to lurking*
Hello all. After months of lurking, I decided to come out and give my 2 cents. I had read at Jen Haley\'s site about Micron pens. I bought a pack of six of them and have found them to be very useful. They provide the fine point that can be hard to obtain with a brush sometimes. They come in various sizes, but the 005 (or .20 mm nib) has worked well for me. They can be used for writing and such for scrolls, books, etc. as well. The other advantage is they provide a circular dot, which helps to avoid the \"cat-eye\". The web site for the pens is www.gellyroll.com. In the US, I found them at Michael\'s.
Hope this helps someone. I have learned so much from this site!
*Returns to lurking*
