Painting Studded Leather and Other Misc Problems

[pabloescobear]

So this is my first post. I painted for about a year and a half, maybe two with about a five year break and I am just getting back into it. Right now, I am in the process of stripping all of my old miniatures (Ive already done a lot and wish I had taken before pics) as well as buying new paints. I used the Reaper Pro Paints before but I am now moving onto the Reaper Masters Triads. Ive looked in the articles and a few other websites and cant seem to find anything on these two items.

1) I started going though my miniatures and noticed some of them have studded leather on. I just had a question concerning how this should be done. I was thinking of going about it by painting the leather base and the stud base, and then doing the leather wash so I get the nice deep color around each stud, then do highlights for each. Good approach? Any other suggestions.

2) On one of my studded leather minis, I stripped it, re-based it and then primed it. I started working on some skin, leather, and a cape. After a decent base coat on everything, I set it down for a couple hours. When I came back, I found that the cape and leather paint had started cracking. Has anyone had this problem? Is it a problem with the Reaper Master paints? Or did I just not shake it long enough?

Thanks for the help in advance, I have a feeling I will be needing a bit of it since I will be trying all of these different, new techniques.

 

[thekid420]

welcome back to painting lol,

same here i took a big break from it i havent touched stuff since i was 12 or 13 now at 25 i got back into it recently......

as far as the paint cracking what did you use to remove the old paint?

and for the studded leather that sounds like a good approach i personally like using an armour wash or a black ink when theres metal protruding from surfaces but to each his own experiment and see what works best for you....

 

[pabloescobear]

Right now, I am experimenting with different removal methods. Mainly trying Pinesol and Simple Green. I am however making sure to wash them thoroughly after the soak and removal. Plus, when I had applied the primer and it had dried, it looked fine. I am using Krylon black primer right now. I was thinking about getting another type tomorrow since when I am priming it seems to be going on watery even after 6 minutes of shaking.

 

[Dragonsreach]

Originally posted by pabloescobear
On one of my studded leather minis, I stripped it, re-based it and then primed it. I started working on some skin, leather, and a cape. After a decent base coat on everything, I set it down for a couple hours. When I came back, I found that the cape and leather paint had started cracking. Has anyone had this problem? Is it a problem with the Reaper Master paints? Or did I just not shake it long enough?

Yes I\'ve had this exact problem and with a Reaper paint. I know why I got the \"Crazing\" as it\'s due to an differing drying between top and bottom levels of the paint, but why this happened I\'m unsure of.
I suspect that there could have been several factors:
Using Plasti-Kote Grey Primer, which I find takes a lot longer to become workable on metal figures (24-48 hours),
Inadequate shaking of the paint bottle,
Winds from the West..........???

 

[pabloescobear]

Thanks for the advice. I just got the paints so I may have to play around with them as well as let the minis set for a day or two after they have been primed and see what happens.