Photographing Metallics

misterjustin

New member
I dug through the articles and did a quick search -- but I can\'t find any advice specific to photographing metallic paints.

The Empire General I have below is quite likely the best work I\'ve ever done. In the photo it\'s almost impossible to tell. I had to go in to Photoshop and adjust the levels and curves to hell and back just to make the image manageable.

When this guy is finished I really want to be able to show him off -- and have a good photo for eBay -- but I\'ve tried fiddling with my lighting and nothing has worked.

Will it be better after I spray him with matte sealer?

377014440_d605fb46b7_o.jpg
 

EricJ

Active member
I am actually just now working more with metallics and I\'d love to hear answers to this as well, I had the same question!!
 

matty1001

New member
For Vargas, i used the one light method in the articles section. Positioned my daylight lamp above my camera, then took the photo, the model is backed by a blue-white transistion instead of being photoshopped in.
I took 2 slightly different photos (about 10degree\'s change between the two) to show two slightly different reflections.
 

Dragonsreach

Super Moderator
Staff member
OK (trying to post this again)
The problem I see is that you have photgraphed against a white background and your camera exposure is overwhelmed by the contrast between the white and the Dark Figure.
Change the background to an 18% grey and the exposure will balance out correctly.

If you can afford to get a light tent and descent lamps I\'d suggest getting them and seeing the difference diffused light can make especially with Metallics.

Hope that this helps.
 

misterjustin

New member
Oh mighty moderator - any recommendations on lamps and light tents? It\'s not out of the realm of possibility....

Thanks for the tip on the background as well -- both Dragonsreach and matty -- I\'ll try a gray and my blue/white transition tonight.
 

Dragonsreach

Super Moderator
Staff member
Er..............search ebay, that\'s how my wife got mine. :D

As for the lamps a couple of good Halogens at approx 45 degrees to either side of the mini should be a good starting point.

I\'ve just blown the wiring on a 500 Watt lamp and need to rewire it (Grrrr) but I think anything from 150 Watt upwards might suite your needs.


EDIT: Just remembered Grey Primer is just a touch short of 18% grey. If that helps you could always make a Scoop out of Plasitcard and prime it grey.
 

generulpoleaxe

New member
this is using an off white background and a strip light pointing straight at the mini from just above the camera.

it\'s only unit painting before people start laughing.
i found metalics a lot easier to paint and photograph when i started to paint the highlights and shadows more realisticly, instead of the way i used to.

1-1.jpg
 

Orb

procrastinator
I had trouble photographing the metallics on the =I= bust I did.
Going to give it another go, but this time I\'m going to try shooting in RAW format - not an option for many of us but I think it might be the way to go.

RAW is basically the unprocessed \"negative\" image before it gets converted to a JPEG. I should be able to tweak the exposure and White Balance before outputting as a JPEG
 

matty1001

New member
I always shoot in RAW for miniatures. You get a bit more \'leway\' when adjusting levels, before making it a jpg.
 

generulpoleaxe

New member
i save the image as a png before doing anything with it now.

i never could work out why everything was getting degraded and pixilated untill vhaidra pointed it out.
 

DaN

New member
Kust a thpught - would maybe softening the light somewhat by putting a semi-transparent sheet in front help...?
(Im thinking like very fine net curtains kinda stuff)

But yeah - metallics can be a bitch to photograph decently - especailly over a large area.
 

Wootton

New member
for me i use a long daylight lamp and try to have now lights around (exept for the real daylight) the lamp is usually next to the camera, and becasue it\'s so long it gives good even lighting on the model (usually) i sit the model on a big white piece of card which seems to work fine for me.
 

vincegamer

Active member
I have heard that RAW is the best for altering photos before making jpg.
However, not many cameras give you that option. I\'m not about to put out $500+ for a camera just yet.
 
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