Preparation question

[Arma]

Hey all,

I have a quick question about preparation of mainly metal figures. Looking at this picture:

The circled areas show a kind of roughness common with metal figures, I was wondering if people spend time filling these small holes and, if so, how?

I know resin modellers have to spend a lot time filling bubble holes and gaps using various products.

Living in Japan I know there\'s a range of products by Gunze Sangyo specifically designed for filling such holes. These are the \'Mr Surfacer\' range.

Very good article on their usage

These are mainly designed for plastic kits, but does anyone use these or another product for filling these small imperfections on metal figures?

Thanks.

 

[Wren]

A lot of time I find these can be filed down without altering the contours of the rest of the area significantly. If it\'s a little larger than that, something I\'ve been experimenting with lately is putting a small drop of CA glue on a pockmark area (like with the tip of a pointed toothpick), then when it\'s dry sanding it down. I\'ve heard you shouldn\'t leave this to dry for hours, you want to do it when it\'s just dry or it can get too hard, but I haven\'t experimented that much. For imperfections of this nature I find after priming/painting has begun, sometimes it works to take a thick brush on primer like Reaper Master Series and drop it into the hole, let dry, apply, etc. until you fill the hole even with the surrounding area. Anne Foerster recommend this as a solution for people who hate eyeballs that come dotted on the sculpt. If the area is larger or very deep, then I fill with GS.

 

[Arma]

Thanks for the reply, Wren.

I think I\'ll just try filling it down in the future though I may try some of the products I mentioned too

GL in the GT btw, you have a good chance! I, on the other hand, do not

 

[petey]

I use milliput, it becomes quite weird with a small amount of water - like a paste - so I put some in pockmarks, get some water and rub over the top until it\'s all blended in.

 

[Shawn R. L.]

400 grit sand paper - the wet/dry kind. If the texture isnt too bad, I usually just leave it. I use a heavy primer and it seems to fill in the gap\'s......\"mind the gap\"

 

[Wren]

Originally posted by Arma
GL in the GT btw, you have a good chance! I, on the other hand, do not

Thanks for the kind comment! The great value of the GT is in the comments and the opportunity to peek behind the curtain and see how other painters do the things they do. You have a good chance to start working towards the Fungal Growth award, it was very encouraging for me when I won that one.

 

[Arma]

Originally posted by Wren

Originally posted by Arma
GL in the GT btw, you have a good chance! I, on the other hand, do not

Thanks for the kind comment! The great value of the GT is in the comments and the opportunity to peek behind the curtain and see how other painters do the things they do. You have a good chance to start working towards the Fungal Growth award, it was very encouraging for me when I won that one.

yeah absolutely, I\'m in there for the feedback really, and a means to keep me painting on a regular basis... The figure in this thread is probably going to be for next months GT. I love those High Elf Hero figures. :beer:

 

[vincegamer]

I can\'t tell too much from that picture.
It doesn\'t look bad enough to do anything about to me, except maybe a hole near the bottom of the left circle.
Any 2-part putty (GS, Milliput, I use Apoxie Sculpt) will thin with water to a paste good for filling in minor imperfections. I have an old Space Marine where the backs of his legs looked like a small pox survivor and I had to do something, but the ordinary roughness of metals usually isn\'t visible when painted.

 

[supervike]

H.


I believe that is the correct reply.:moon:

 

[Wren]

I\'d heard of using Milliput thinned with water, but I thought a key feature of GS is that it wasn\'t at all water soluable? How do you thin it down with water, that sounds useful.

 

[Dragonsreach]

Milliput is great if you don\'t mind the mess you end up in. (Or is that just me?)
I know a couple of people at GW use PVA to fill in the \"bubble texture\" on large areas.
Leave it over night and gently sand the area with Wet & Dry.
Works for them.

 

[penguin]

I haven\'t had any major problems with this issue myself, but I know that Jéremie Bonamant recommended \"Milliput juice.\" His advice is as good as any, and it seems to have worked for him and also everyone else who told you this before