Prepping Forgeworld Infantry-Models

[Yves]

Hey guys,

Yeah, I'm new to this forum, been browsing it for quite some time now and first off all: You guys seem really great, always happy to help and I haven't seen any trolls whatsoever yet!

So, as the title says, I got a few problems with prepping my DKoK that I recently bought. The miniatures feature great posing and quite a bit of details, but the quality control seems rather poor.
I figured that the usual approach for resin miniatures just doesn't really cut it. I started rubbing off the dust with water and soap, dried them and now I don't know what to do with all the little scratches (the bubbles have been sanded off). I slaped on some primer on a test miniature, but honestly it looks a little messy (I used thin layers of course).

Do you guys have any ideas what to do or have you worked with FW minis before?

Please let me know, it'd be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance and I'll post some work on them in the WIP section as soon as I got that promblem solved!

Greets,
Yves


PS: Sorry for my bad English, I'm German and I haven't been to the U.S. in over 1 1/2 years.

 

[Dragonsreach]

Yep Forgeworld does occasionally have "issues" with getting clean.
I've found that a gentle scrub with CIF and a toothbrush generally gets all the releasing agent off the figure.
After that, once dry, you can give the figure a soft spray with Testors Dullcoate to provide a better "tooth" for what ever primer you use.

 

[Einion]

I figured that the usual approach for resin miniatures just doesn't really cut it.

It's hard to say that there really is a usual approach for resin since castings can vary a huge amount in various ways, not just in the design of the mould and the position or size of the casting blocks.

...now I don't know what to do with all the little scratches (the bubbles have been sanded off).

These are scratches from your sanding, yes? Regardless of source the usual way to deal with scratches is just to use finer sandpaper or abrasives (steel wool, Scotchbrite, nylon scubbing pad) in stages until the scratches are small enough to be invisible under the primer layer. So maybe P150, P300, P800.

If you use wet-and-dry paper you can often omit a step on softer materials like resin without a problem, maybe going from 150 directly to 600 or 800.

PS: Sorry for my bad English, I'm German and I haven't been to the U.S. in over 1 1/2 years.

Don't worry, it's very good... darned sight better than the German most of us could muster I'm sure :smile-big:

Einion

 

[Yves]

Thanks guys, as simple as it sounds, it really helped me a lot already!