Primer problems

[Padawan716]

I\'m having some frustrating issues with my GW white primer. It doesn\'t matter whether the mini is plastic or metal, but the primer almost always goes on looking sort of dusty and sandy (in texture, not color). I had some really bad problems with my new Cap\'n lysander mini where the coat of primer actually felt like sandpaper. I primed him 3 seperate times (stripping the previous layer for the first 2 times), the last time being just barely workable.

If I spray from a short distance (4-6 inches) it goes on smooth but thick. If I spray from farther away and up to the recommended 12 inches, it does the sandy thing.

I have a feeling it might be the temperature here: mid 80s F at night (the only time I can prime, since the days are around 100), possibly dry, maybe a little humid (I can\'t tell with so much hot air around). But I recall having the same problems in the San Francisco Bay area last month. And I do let the can sit outside to \"equilibriate\" with the temperature.

Does Chaos black primer do this? I used that stuff when I started back in 2001/2 with LOTR miniatures, and never experienced this. I\'m using white now so I can use some brighter colors, like white, yellow, and tan. But if black is better than white, I guess I\'ll have to switch. (unless there\'s another primer that works well and comes in the same quantity/price as the GW can.

Thanks for your help.

 

[EricJ]

I actually have never had luck getting spray on primer as smooth as I wanted it, so I may not be much of a help there. However, my solution to this was to move to brush on primer, which I now use exclusively, (reaper white).

Maybe not an answer to your question, but a possible solution

 

[StarFyre]

hmm

GW told me that happens when the primer has been sitting for long time... you need to shake it more and twirl it around with the metal thing inside at the bottom (ie. the pigment powder has fully settled basically).

Also, it could mean you are too close, too much, or the environment is so dusty, dust is getting caught in the spray and sticking to the mini.

Sanjay

 

[Itchy]

Yeah, i use a brush on primer too. In the past i\'ve been accused of not thinning down my paints, when i had them so watered down they were colored water. Later somebody told me it might be my primer... and wouldn\'t you know... switch to a brush on and problem\'s gone!

Hope it helps.

 

[Wolf_Fang]

GW primer is just like that... both black and white (bossibly brown too... havnt see it used or used it tho) i think the idea behind that is to \"grab\" the paint more.... personaly ive found that minis look good if painted \"warhammer style\" with it.... gives it that slightly faded and grummy look (no offence grum )


by the way.... any one know how to get the ball out without having the can explode in your face?

 

[Brokenblade]

Where abouts are you, if you\'re somewhere with a warm climate it could be that the paint is partially drying before it hits the model, happens regularly here in england on hot days, so that might be your problem, then again i\'ve never got on with games workshop primers either ???

 

[Equus]

Yup...what they all said. ^_^

I\'ve actually stayed away from GW sprays for a while, unless I just can\'t avoid it. I usually either use Vallejo GC brush on white primer now or Duplicolor sandable automotive primer for big things. Worse comes to worse, I\'d probably prefer to throw some Vallejo primer or Mr Surfacer White 1000 through my airbrush. Better atomization, better control, and better primer.

Most of the problems I\'ve had with spray primer was either due to old cans, humidity (either too high or too low), or extreme temperatures. It is highly suggested that you shake the living bejeezus out of the can if it\'s been sitting for any length of time. If I\'m doing some spray primering, I usually shake the can for something like 5 minutes while I smoke a cigarette or something.

 

[Shawn R. L.]

I use Rust-olium. It goes on with a smooth yet dull surface. One thought if it\'s going on with a texture is you may be doing it in a place which is too hot. If too warm the paint will dry so rapidly that it hasnt had a chance to \'lay down\'.........mabey.

 

[StarFyre]

duplicolour automotive primer

I have some of that white primer. Forgeworld suggests it for resin as it adhears to resin better and seals it instead of soaking up the gaming primer (resin apparently does this).

Sanjay

 

[Einion]

Instead of using the primer at whatever the room temperature is I would suggest you always use it warmed, unless it\'s very hot where you are. This has a twofold benefit - increases the pressure and reduces the viscosity of the paint - resulting in better atomisation. This seems to work for just about any type of paint in a can, just sit the can in a basin of hand-hot water for a few minutes, shake well and go for it.

The dusty finish problem is usually ascribed to the paint drying on the way to the surface, this shouldn\'t happen at 12\" from a can with a properly-formulated paint, but who knows what the GW stuff is made from? Is it very dry where you are? That\'s a possible contributing factor.

I\'d suggest you skip hobby primers and go with an automotive or household variety. This is what I use, much much cheaper and they work fine (pun intended). Since you\'re in the US try Painter\'s Touch primer from Rustoleum, a number of modellers use this.

Einion

 

[Equus]

Rustoleum Painter\'s Touch huh? If they have white, I may have to try some out sometime. My local Fred Meyer either doesn\'t carry the white Duplicolor sandable anymore or doesn\'t restock it often. :~(

Does it stand up to sanding ok?

 

[JimG]

errr....

Originally posted by Equus
If I\'m doing some spray primering, I usually shake the can for something like 5 minutes while I smoke a cigarette or something.

Have you tried smoking WHILE you spray primer? :flame:

 

[RedDawn]

Originally posted by Itchy
Yeah, i use a brush on primer too. In the past i\'ve been accused of not thinning down my paints, when i had them so watered down they were colored water. Later somebody told me it might be my primer... and wouldn\'t you know... switch to a brush on and problem\'s gone!

Hope it helps.

I\'ve had the same thing said to me! I wonder if it\'s the primer that\'s the problem (besides just being a newbie painter)?!?

I\'m also going to try the Rust-oleum since I\'ve already got some.

 

[ipaintminis]

We used to have this problem and its why we switched to brush on primer.

until Trevor sent us the round robin mini, and his black primer was perrrrrfecccct so mom got some white.

because its so humid and hot down here in Fla (stupid hurricane season...) leaving it outside was what caused ours to not settle right.

mom figured it out. we leave it inside on our painting area, when we need to prime we take it out....prime as fast as possible, then take it back in the house.

the low humidity and temperature of our house causes the primer to retain something or other (don\'t completely understand that part)lol

but i do know that the primer goes on juuuust right. :flip:

 

[Ebonbuddha]

First: STOP BUYING GW\'S OVER-PRICED INFERIOR CRAP!!!

Second: Try Krylon spray primer. Its cheaper, and better quality.

Another thing you might try is paint on primer. I have grown to love it more than the aerosol cans.

 

[RedDawn]

Originally posted by Ebonbuddha
First: STOP BUYING GW\'S OVER-PRICED INFERIOR CRAP!!!

Second: Try Krylon spray primer. Its cheaper, and better quality.

Another thing you might try is paint on primer. I have grown to love it more than the aerosol cans.

How does the Krylon compare to Rustoleum? (If you\'ve ever tried it.)

 

[Equus]

Originally posted by JimG

Originally posted by Equus
If I\'m doing some spray primering, I usually shake the can for something like 5 minutes while I smoke a cigarette or something.

Have you tried smoking WHILE you spray primer? :flame:

Hahaha...no I haven\'t. When I do spray, I almost always wear a respirator. Even if it\'s acrylics. I\'ve inhaled way more lacquer based stuff already, and I don\'t need any more.

 

[Einion]

Originally posted by Equus
Rustoleum Painter\'s Touch huh? If they have white, I may have to try some out sometime.

Sure do, white\'s N1981, grey is N1980

No idea about the sanding though, sorry.

Einion

 

[cookster]

Args[]

Dude, im having the same problem with my white. I think its because i haven\'t used it in so long. I prefer black so much more!

By the way can you use white acrylic paint for primer. I thought primer was supposed to create a better surface for applying paint as opposed to metal and/or plastic.

 

[Equus]

Originally posted by Einion

Originally posted by Equus
Rustoleum Painter\'s Touch huh? If they have white, I may have to try some out sometime.

Sure do, white\'s N1981, grey is N1980

No idea about the sanding though, sorry.

Einion

It\'ll probably be fine, as long as the layers are thin, I would guess. I\'ve sanded GW primer after applying to resin before. I guess the question is mostly how well it adheres and if it peels up during sanding or not. I\'ll see if I can find it the next time I go to Fred Meyers and see if they have it. How\'s the spray nozzle? I\'m very fond of the Duplicolor nozzles, since they don\'t require much finger pressure to use, but if they don\'t have white anymore I\'m kinda up the river.

@ cookster - I believe the basic idea (whether it holds true or not), is that primer has more \"tooth\", so it is supposed to adhere better. Many times, I\'ve also found primer to be much more opaque that the typical acrylic paint as well.

Also like to add that since I had some cans of GW spray primer go south after sitting in my garage through a winter, I followed a friend\'s advice and started keeping the primer inside my house. Haven\'t had as much problem with the primer being really bad since. Of course, I also don\'t use GW primer.