Procedure Problem

A

absolutrudy

New member
Ok, I\'ve been trying to higlight/shade this Reaper death shroud figure using VMC Burnt Cad Red as my base. But my layers still apper chalky and right on top of each other. Here\'s my process and let me know if I need to change things. I shaded w VMC red/black and hull red. Highlighted with VMC carmine red and vermillion.

1. Pallet- an ice cube dish, covered in aluminum foil. My range is two shades, my base, and either two or three highlights. I put a drop of my base in each of the five or six cells, then add five drops (from a droppper bottle) of distilled H2O to my highlights, about 3 or 4 to my base and 2 or 3 to my shades. then I work from my recesses, all the way to my highlights.

I do have bottles of liquitex flow imporover and drying retarder but have not used them lately. I find myself stirring my paint, (with another brush), and when I gather paint on the brush I\'m using, I lightly touch it against a paper towl to draw some of the water off it.

I also use black primer if that makes a difference.

If anyone has any suggestions to my process let me know. Thanks.
 
S

supervike

Super Moderator
Your procedure seems sound, but I do know what you are talking about. I see the chalky residue a bit on some of my stuff too, and our techniques seem very similar.

I recently invested in a paint shaker, and it makes quite a difference over stirring or shaking by hand.

I think the flow improver may help a bit (in very small quantities) ie just the tip of the brush mixed in to your paint.

One thing I noticed helped a little too with the obvious \'layers\' was I took a very very thin wash of my base color (1 part paint 10 parts water) and painted over the highlights. That seem to smooth and even out the tones, giving a much improved appearance.

Hopefully, someone who REALLY knows what they are talking about will chime in to help out....Good luck!!
 
R

Ritual

New member
Don\'t be so modest, Jim, you DO know what you\'re talking about!

@absolutrudy
I\'d follow Supervike\'s advice. If you already have a bottle of water for thinning your paint you could add flow improver to it and every time you thin your paints you\'ll have flow improver into it as well. Going over highlighted areas with a wash of the base colour is a good method of achieving smooth blendings no matter if you have a chalky finish or not. I use that all the time.
 
J

Jabberwocky

New member
Of the various paints out there, VMC in my limited experience requires the most thinning. It requires a lot of shaking to get mixed as well. I put some small aquarium rocks in the bottles to act as agitators, when has helped some I think. Another thing to consider--do you work under hot lamps? I have set a mini aside or work on another and \"baked\" the paint a bit, causing it to flake some.

Hope this helps,
Jabber
 
Fizl

Fizl

Secret Crocodile
The other option is that you aren\'t allowing the paint to fully dry before you put on the next layer, picking up some of the nearly dry lower layer. This can cause the same appearance

Shaz
 
Fizl

Fizl

Secret Crocodile
Originally posted by reverend
The man\'s got some questions, ain\'t he? :rolleyes:

And an eye for detail in relaying every movement to us lol
Click to expand...

Lets hope that doesn\'t happen for everything, eh ? lol

Shaz
 
Infidel Castro

Infidel Castro

New member
I\'m considering using the toilet, but I was wondering what the best procedure would be for wiping my arse. Do I use two pieces of tissue or more? If I only use two pieces, the paper might break and my fingers touch my poo-poo. Maybe 3 would be a better bet? I could be more robust. 4 or 5 pieces might take away the \'feeling through the paper\' side of things and leave me with a lack of control. What do you think Fizl?
 
Fizl

Fizl

Secret Crocodile
I reckon use a leaf from whicever tree grows nearest - have you never heard of the leaf style, grasshopper?

Shaz
 
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