Protective Coating

jetpilot01

New member
Since I'm only a 5-6 painter (but improving!!), I actually use my figs on the gaming table. I spend more time painting my figs than playing with them. More often than not, I have the best painted figs on the table and no one wants to touch them. My attitude is this...what good is a Ferrari if you can't take it out and beat on it once in a while? Since I'll never own a Ferrari, I guess that's easier said than done.

My question is this...What are some of you using to coat your work after your done to protect it? I've tried many things, but in the end, most overcoats take away from the detail and contrast. For example, using GW Purity Seal removes the shine from my metal and look less real. Sometimes it brings out the layering detail to a level where its no longer smooth. I've done straight gloss coats with Testors gloss acrylic but that makes the whole thing look too shiny although offer the best protection. I've even painted the whole fig less metal, coated it with a semigloss and then do the metal and brush on a high gloss to the metal parts only. Works ok, but wondering if there is a better solution.

Maybe, someday when my skills improve, I won't have the sac to play with that "Golden Deamon Winner" (in my eyes, anyway), but in the meantime, any thoughts, comments or advice would be appreciated.
 

kathrynloch

New member
There are a variety of products you can use. For miniatures facing true battle, a common practice is to take aerosol high gloss coating and spray the model. If you don't want all of that shine, after the model dries, lightly spray it with Testor's Dull Coat and it will knock that shine right down.

If you have stuff you want to keep shiny, you can seal the mini with dull coat and go back over the shiny spots with brush on gloss varnish.

Changing the detail and contrast can be caused by a variety of things. For instance you don't want to spray one heavy layer. You want one very light layer, let dry, then repeat. Keep the layers light, keep the bursts of spray short and controlled. Shake the can well! Also be careful if you live in a humid area. I had a brain-fart and sprayed a model with dull coat right after a summer thunder shower. The humidity was through the roof. I got white flecks all over my model. DOH! I knew better, I just wasn't thinking. But after the humidity dropped a little, I sprayed it with dull coat again and most of the white flecks disappeared.

You want good quality products. I like Testors Dull Coat and Tamiya makes a nice sealer too. I dislike the GW products and will never, ever again use Armory or Army Painter for sealer - I just had a bad experience with those but many people like them.

So you can do lots of things to get the results you want. A good practice to get into is always spray a test model first before applying sealer to your hard work. As you work with the stuff, test models will let you get the hang of it, and if a can does go bad or the humidity is high, the test model will save your work of art from disaster. ;)
 

marjedi

New member
Vallejos brush on varnishes are pretty good too. They leave 0 brushmarks and it really is as fast as spraying if you use a big enough brush.
 

jetpilot01

New member
Thanks! I live in Florida, so humidity is always an issue. Even when I thought it might be ok, I got the dreaded white speckles. Brushing on has always been the best option. I'm going to give the Vallejo line a try. I've used of their paints and have been pretty happy with them.
 

RuneBrush

New member
Have you access to an airbrush? If so then don't be afraid to use that to spray on varnishes, it will be less susceptible to humidity as it's using air as the propellant. I get really good results from the Matte Daler Rowney soluble varnish. On the subject of metallics dulling down, have you considered leaving the edge highlights until after you've varnished? I've always found that having the matte shadows and glossy highlights looks a lot more effective than the shadows shiny
 

jetpilot01

New member
I do have an airbrush and it never occurred to me to use it for varnishes. Definitely going to give it a try. I'm glad I posted the question!
 

freakinacage

Well-known member
I don't game but I am a clumsy bastard so drop stuff a lot. a solid coat of halfords clear lacquer followed by dullcote works nicely
 
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