Reaper paint
- Thread starter WingZ
- Start date
fieldarchy
New member
My suggestion is to get colors you like, don\'t focus on the triads.
Stay away from yellows, oranges or any browns in the line though. They tend to chalk up something fierce!
Stay away from yellows, oranges or any browns in the line though. They tend to chalk up something fierce!
Decide the colors that you need and buy appropriately.
Whether you should go for the triads depends on whether or not you\'ll really use the preselected highlights and shadows.
I find the liner colors, flesh tones, and ivory/bone colors particularly useful.
Unlike fieldarchy, I really like the browns.
Whether you should go for the triads depends on whether or not you\'ll really use the preselected highlights and shadows.
I find the liner colors, flesh tones, and ivory/bone colors particularly useful.
Unlike fieldarchy, I really like the browns.
Friar
Dorks for Orks
I use rms as well and love their flesh triads, also their purples and blues, the mahogeny thru rust triad, the browns and yellow browns, I use their greens alot but pale lichen has a tendency to chalk up on me, also the shadowed thru weathered stone triad gets alot of use on my bases, and the bone triad is great for teeth, horns, and wraithbone on eldar.
Havn\'t had any bad times with their reds either but havn\'t been blown away either.
Havn\'t had any bad times with their reds either but havn\'t been blown away either.
PegaZus
Stealth Freak
I have the learn to paint kits. And I suppose they\'re okay. I bought the first three and finished up with around 25 pots of paint with duplicates in black and oiled leather. They\'re the screw off pots, and I\'m happier with the eye droppers that I have now. I suppose the plus side, you\'ll get a couple of figures with it.
So, I would suggest that you get the Kit-2, Skin And Cloth. It will come with: Ruddy Flesh, Oiled Leather, Dragon Black, Linen White, Blood Red, Sunlight (yellow), Kilt Green, Breonne Navy Blue, and Copper. That\'s is, if I\'ve read the instructions correctly (where I pulled the names from) and that they haven\'t changed the setup since I bought mine nearly two years ago.
Hope that helps some.
The old Learn to Paint Kits came with the old Pro Paints. They started using Master Series Paints instead a year or two ago. Look for the sticker that says \"Now with Master Series Paints\" if you see the boxed sets.
The 1st Learn to Paint Kit has been repackaged as a blister pack. Not as great of a bargain as #2 and #3 (which are 9 paints, 2 brushes, and 2 minis for the price of the 9 paints).
The Learn to Paint Kits are a pretty good way to get into the paints. Some overlap in #2 and #3 (1 or 2 paints, I think), but not much.
The 1st Learn to Paint Kit has been repackaged as a blister pack. Not as great of a bargain as #2 and #3 (which are 9 paints, 2 brushes, and 2 minis for the price of the 9 paints).
The Learn to Paint Kits are a pretty good way to get into the paints. Some overlap in #2 and #3 (1 or 2 paints, I think), but not much.
lizcam
New member
I have a full set of RMS and love them. I don\'t find any issues with any of the colors at all except that for skin tones I tend to mix up the triads. Otherwise they seem a bit flat. I\'ll use like chestnut brown as a base and then tan shadow, tan skin and rosey highlights to add some life to the skin. I love the I think it\'s dusty rose for blush on must cheeks. It is perfect for adding a bit of \"red\" to a nose or something without making them look \"made up\".
My only complaint is the dropper bottles tend to clog more than Vallejo. That ticks me off sometimes.
My only complaint is the dropper bottles tend to clog more than Vallejo. That ticks me off sometimes.
S
Shadzar
Guest
not sure if i used Reaper or Vallejo at the Reaper Paint n Take i attended, but i found i liked them about as much as Citadel colours. there was more colors and a bit different, but they were wetter and didn\'t need thinned to breakdown the paints. i didn\'t have really any problem with them. i would just suggest some you need and test out a few and see if you like them. or maybe find somewhere that will let you test them via a Paint n Take and try them if thats what they use and then base your buying decission on the results from that.
maybe not something as quick as you were hoping, but then it may save hassle unless you jsut want to dive in and buy some.
i am pretty sure a Reaper PnT shoudl have used Reaper paints. but they may not have been Master Series.
the preceeding opinon is based on late night insomnia.
maybe not something as quick as you were hoping, but then it may save hassle unless you jsut want to dive in and buy some.
i am pretty sure a Reaper PnT shoudl have used Reaper paints. but they may not have been Master Series.
the preceeding opinon is based on late night insomnia.
olliekickflip
New member
All the paint brands have their good and bad points...as for colors pick the ones that you have a need for right now. Also dont get rid of your GW paints...you will find as your painting skillz grow the GW paints will meet your needs more effectively than they do right now. Take this from a guy who ditched all his gw paints and then ended up rebuying them later. You can never have enough paint!!! Also, try the p3\'s, I think you will be pleasently surprised!!!!
Wren
Member
I\'ll second the recommendation for the flesh colours. I\'d recommend Tanned, Tanned Shadow, Rosy, Rosy Shadow, Golden Skin and Golden Shadow in particular. You can use Linen White to mix highlights with those or mixes for paler skintones so don\'t need to get the paler ones straight off.
I like almost all the RMS browns, and most of the yellows. I particularly recommend Oiled Leather, Shield Brown and Walnut Brown as very flexible paints I used for all kinds of things. Ditto the Bone Triad which is a grayed bone and useful for bones, rocks, teeth, old wood and more. I haven\'t seen equivalents to those colours in too many paint palettes, so they\'re useful to try on that level, too.
I have had some chalking problems with two sets of paints - the Olive Greens and the Autumn Browns. I\'m not even sure it\'s all the paints in those triads, I think it\'s just Olive Shadow, Olive and Harvest Brown, but I haven\'t tested enough to be sure. Palomino Gold isn\'t quite as smooth as most of the paints, but not truly problematic like the Olives and Autumns.
Getting one of the kits with the new paints is a good idea to test out whether they\'ll work with your style and preferences as long as you don\'t mind not getting the dropper bottles.
I like almost all the RMS browns, and most of the yellows. I particularly recommend Oiled Leather, Shield Brown and Walnut Brown as very flexible paints I used for all kinds of things. Ditto the Bone Triad which is a grayed bone and useful for bones, rocks, teeth, old wood and more. I haven\'t seen equivalents to those colours in too many paint palettes, so they\'re useful to try on that level, too.
I have had some chalking problems with two sets of paints - the Olive Greens and the Autumn Browns. I\'m not even sure it\'s all the paints in those triads, I think it\'s just Olive Shadow, Olive and Harvest Brown, but I haven\'t tested enough to be sure. Palomino Gold isn\'t quite as smooth as most of the paints, but not truly problematic like the Olives and Autumns.
Getting one of the kits with the new paints is a good idea to test out whether they\'ll work with your style and preferences as long as you don\'t mind not getting the dropper bottles.
Friar
Dorks for Orks
Thats a very good idea/tip on the skin Liz.
I\'ve only had a few bottles clog so far, but the one thing that really yanks my chain is when ya take the top off and you got a volcano bottle damn thing just keeps puttin paint out even tho it\'s right side up no squeezin just get a drop and recap as fast as ya can lol anyone else have that happen with the droppers (still a rarity but happens more then clogs for me)
airhead
Coffin Dodger / Keymaster
Friar, I\'ve never seen that.
Liz, as to the plugging, I used to take my paints to work so I could go to class after. Oftern forget and leave them in the car. Not good in FL summers. Never really hurt the paint, but did make for lots of clogged bottles. Got so bad that I actually took my pin vise to them. That seemed to have solved the problem.
Carry a paper clip with you, open the outer leg. Instant bottle unplug tool.
Liz, as to the plugging, I used to take my paints to work so I could go to class after. Oftern forget and leave them in the car. Not good in FL summers. Never really hurt the paint, but did make for lots of clogged bottles. Got so bad that I actually took my pin vise to them. That seemed to have solved the problem.
Carry a paper clip with you, open the outer leg. Instant bottle unplug tool.
Dropper bottles will just clog every now and again.
I use a medium sized safety pin to unclog my dropper bottles. Just plunge the needle part all the way down (as far as it can go), and the bottle is usually fine afterwards.
Wren reminded me of another particularly good triad: the Off-Whites triad is very handy. Not a triad in the sense of highlight-midtone-shadow, but I use all 3 off whites very frequently.
I use a medium sized safety pin to unclog my dropper bottles. Just plunge the needle part all the way down (as far as it can go), and the bottle is usually fine afterwards.
Wren reminded me of another particularly good triad: the Off-Whites triad is very handy. Not a triad in the sense of highlight-midtone-shadow, but I use all 3 off whites very frequently.
fieldarchy
New member
Let me say I have no problems with the colors of the browns. But every brown I\'ve had from the RMS line (and I had the entire set) would chalk up on me except for the bone triad (if you want to call that brown). They all left chalky streaky marks and the colors were unusable. That is the primary reason I just decided to sell the paint set. For the most part the paints worked well but I was tired of using a new color and having problems with it.
Maybe it was something I was doing but others on the Reaper boards have had the same problems with the browns. The Yellows and Oranges would do a similiar thing and had little white grains that came out in the paint. Didn\'t matter how much I shook it either . . .
I have nothing against the Reaper paints really. I do like them. But I just think there are better paint brands out there for the work I\'m doing.
Always test out the paints on a crappy model before hand so you don\'t potentially ruin and competition models either.
Maybe it was something I was doing but others on the Reaper boards have had the same problems with the browns. The Yellows and Oranges would do a similiar thing and had little white grains that came out in the paint. Didn\'t matter how much I shook it either . . .
I have nothing against the Reaper paints really. I do like them. But I just think there are better paint brands out there for the work I\'m doing.
Always test out the paints on a crappy model before hand so you don\'t potentially ruin and competition models either.
fieldarchy
New member
Yup I\'ve had it happen! More than I care to count.
NINJAWIZARD
New member
The Reaper Learn to Paint kits now come with ONLY RMS paints. I have the flesh kit (which got me the triad of flesh tones) and one other kit that I dont recall.
You get two mini\'s (at least I did), and about 5 pots of paint in each kit, plus some brushes. At $25 per kit, it\'s not a bad buy
You get two mini\'s (at least I did), and about 5 pots of paint in each kit, plus some brushes. At $25 per kit, it\'s not a bad buy
