Redfinger's Update Thread

[cassar]

I figure I have enough things going on that I should start an update thread instead of posting progress of single things in multiple threads, I dont know if it is possible to merge threads, but if I mod can do that it would be great!! I have my 120mm Space Marine thread that I would like to have merged with this one!

So on the topic of the 120mm Marine, here is an update on him;

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I pinned the arms and tacked them in place with a small drop of glue to hold them in the position I like, the pouldrons are still blue tacked, but closer to where I will have them. You will also notice the beginings of an armor plate on the left thigh and shin...there will be matching ones on the other leg as well, these plates will be detailed with metal studs, I want the marine to have a heavy, reinforced look, and I think that will help. The belt will also be bulked out more to minimize that lovely hourglass figure. All in all this has been a really fun project to work on.

Here are some Malifaux that I am working on as well too. I dont know anything about the game, but they have been a lot of fun to paint;

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And lastly, I am currently working on my personal Space Marine army, Imperial Fists, I have been playing around a little with the color scheme, and I have settled on the color yellow I like, Cadmium Yellow, and yes, it is an oil paint, and yes that is how these guys have been painted! The blue on the Librarian armor was also painted in oils too.

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I will post more updates as I keep moving through things!

Ashton

the left paldrons bigger than the right in this shot that might be it but coming on well some cool stuff in here.

 

[Meph]

Hee hee hee, those ork heads are awesome!

 

[Redfinger]

Thanks Meph. As Friday's are my "update" day for my blog, I thought I would put some more stuff up!

First up is Lady Justice from Malifaux

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I really feel like I am struggling to get the black right, that is why I bought the mini so that I could practice black, and hair textures, also the skin is a bit blotchy...With my Vallejo paints I notice that if I try to thin the paint too much for wet blending the paint begins to separate where you can actually see the separation between pigment and water...I have heard that P3 paints are superior to Vallejo when it comes to wet blending, anyone wanna chime in on that?

Then we have some Bretonnians for a commission I am doing, fun to paint, lots of decal work though. I tried a new technique for gold and I am real happy with the results, base coat mithral, wash sepia, shade with black, I rather like the way it turned out.
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Then there are these Blood Angel Sanguinary Preists that I am working on for a guy, I really like how deep the red turned out on these ones!

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And finally some more progress on my Imperial Fist army, troops and a tank! All of these were painted with Windsor and Newton Oil Paints, mostly Cadmium Yellow and Burnt Umber, with a little white for highlighting.

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Ashton

 

[kathrynloch]

A little late but....HORSIES!!!!!

lol! Love the knights and really nice job on the decal work.

 

[Meph]

Oil paints for a whole model? you mad doc, you. Looks good though!
Oh and love the warm, deep red. Oil paints as well?

 

[marjedi]

Those are some of the best marines i have seen...very very neat and tidy, and the best impfist yellow. Enlighten us on how you managed to paint those using oil colors

 

[Redfinger]

Hey guys thanks for the feedback...

As far as painting with oil goes it is rather easy. First off some acrylic paint is used, but that is more out of speed, and need, in the case of the metallics. Basically what I do is the following;

Step 1- Prime. For these IF marines I went with white because I really wanted them to pop.

Step 2- Basecoat. To help speed up the painting process I base coat all my marines in Vallejo Golden Yellow. However, like most yellow based paint it is fairly thin and requires multiple coats for a decent coverage. I have been thinking about getting a couple cans of Army Painter Primer, just to speed up the process.

Step 3- Clear Coat and Decals. At this point I put some future over the whole model, this provides a nice surface for the decals to attached to, and provides a nice mixing surface for the oil paint. I do about a 1:3 ratio of Future and water, and it is airbrushed on very lightly, in fact it is hardly noticeable, however I do place a thicker layer on the shoulders where the decals will go. After the decals are dry the model gets another coat of Future, though only on the decals, to help level them out.

Step 4- First Oil Layer. At this point the process really becomes glorified dry brushing. I have a small porcelain dish that I put a small amount of Cadmium Yellow and Oder-less Mineral Spirits in. It is a very small amount of both as a little goes a long way. When oil paint comes out of the tube it is quite thick, I add just enough Spirits to take it from a toothpaste consistency to a thick gravy consistency. Then I take a flat brush, load it up, wipe off the excess and proceed to work the yellow onto the model, trying to be neat around the the decals, if you get any on the decal, it wipes right off, or you can re-paint the decal later. Usually I paint 5 or so of these guys at a time, so I work in a round robing fashion. Coat one, move onto the next, and so on. By the time I come back to the first one, it is dry enough(thanks to the Spirits) that I can add a 2nd coat if needed(which is rarely) or tidy up some spots I may have missed.

Step 5- Clear Coat. After I have all of the yellow base finished, I hit everything with a quick coat of Testor's Dull Coat. This is a lacquer based clear coat and dries with in 10 minutes, including the oil beneath. It is important though that all of these layers you are adding are kept thin, you do not want to obscure the detail, just get adequate coverage and stop.

Step 6- Shadows. After the lacquer has dried, I mix up another small batch of Burnt Umber, in the same manner as the Cadmium Yellow. Then working in a shadow-highlight-shadow pattern I start to build the shadows up. That is where the darker color comes from. I keep the yellow handy so that if I push the shadow to far up the model, I can come back with the yellow and clean things up.

Step 7- Another thin coat of Testor's Dull Coat.

Step 8- Details and Highlights. Using acrylic paints at this point, which is perfectly fine because of the lacquer coat, I start to pick out details and highlights. I keep it very simple, 2 shades of blue for the lenses, black for the shoulder trim, black gray for the bolter, chainmail for the metal parts. Red for the aquillia if any. Then the bolter and chainmail bits all get a black wash, and I use Devlan Mud in the deepest parts of the model to deepen the shadows a bit more. Finally my highlight color is Flat Yellow. After all that I do the base according to my theme.

Step 9- Final Clear Coat. Done


It sounds rather involved, but it goes quite fast. I think these 4 guys took me maybe 3 hours total. The dull coat really speeds up the process and by keeping the details simple in the end, you can have a very nice looking product.

Ashton

 

[cektopa]

Those are some good looking marines for 3 hours work! Its always nice to see different techniques, especially with such nice results.

 

[marjedi]

Thx alot for the tutorial...unfortunately Future and Testors are unavailable in my corner of the world....sucks big time, since Future is so much in use

 

[Redfinger]

Thx alot for the tutorial...unfortunately Future and Testors are unavailable in my corner of the world....sucks big time, since Future is so much in use

Well future is just a acrylic based solution, I am sure there are options in your area that would meet that requirement and I am sure would work fine. As far as Terstor's...that is my preferred weapon of choice, but as long as you are using a lacquer based product, I imagine the dry time should be just as fast.

Ashton

 

[Redfinger]

Here are some more marines, I just finished the whole squad this morning;

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Ashton

 

[Redfinger]

Well, I have a rather large update. I finished the Malifaux Neverborne battle group I was working on, I think it turned out well, and the client was really happy with it. Take a look;

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First up is this big guy, "Lord Chompy Bits" when I first unpacked this model I knew I needed him to have blood and gore! Some weeks ago I was asking around on how to achieve these effects, thanks to those who helped, I think they turned out well!

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The 2 demented Care Bear's, "Stabs Alot" and "Killz Alot"

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Some HQ' types

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Some little "goblin" things...

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Some ghosts...I dont know why, but these were my favorite to paint.

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More weird stuff....

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Some demons...

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And the stitched horrors.

Basically the idea was to base all of these mini's as if they were in a child's playroom, they are supposed to be "nightmares" Many of the blocks that are on the bases have "scary" words spelled out or rearranged on them. All in all the whole battle group was a ton of fun to paint and I really enjoyed it.

Ashton

 

[Meph]

Good stuff man, i especially like the last bunch of mini's. Very flavourful

 

[me_in_japan]

lovely basing! and great idea on the blocks' letters.

 

[marjedi]

Malifaux..... i am affraid to check that game out, im sure ill like it too much. The minis are über cool...and mental

 

[Redfinger]

Malifaux..... i am affraid to check that game out, im sure ill like it too much. The minis are über cool...and mental

The mini's are way cool, I think since starting this army I have purchased about half a dozen mini's form Wyrd, they are just too cool!

Ashton