Removing acrylics?

[Maeljin]

I\'ve got a mini I painted, but I was so obsessed about getting it done by a certain time that I screwed up and didn\'t get several shades to match the colors I used on the figure that it is supposed to match. Is there a good way of removing the paint from this? I\'ve been at it using a light touch with a file and x-acto, but I can\'t reach several places and I\'ve leaving small striations on the metal . Does anyone know a good liquid that will remove this stuff?

 

[Flashman14]

Do you mean you want to preserve some parts of the paint job? eeesh . . that\'s a tough one.

If you want to scrap the whole thing then, anecdotally, Pine Sol works fine - soak and submerge the whole thing in a bowl over night then give it a good wash and scrub with soap, water and an old toothbrush.
I havent tried the method because the only fig whose paint job I need to scrap has glued on parts (with Zap a Gap) and I\'m concerned Pine Sol will dissolve the glue. Anyone know what the effects of paint removers has on glues, adhesives etc?

 

[Con EL Pueblo]

If you\'r looking to remove ALL the paint from the fig I can help you, haven\'t got any experience in removing only small parts of the stuff.

The easy answer is: Brake Fluid. Yes good ole\' brake fluid will remove the paint very nicely by submerging the miniature in it for about 24 hours (less will do as well, I guess), just srub the miniature afterwards, using some soap and a old toothbrush. Really does the trick nicely. It can be re-used (filter if necessary), isn\'t accidic or anything, and WON\'T dissolve glue, green stuff and the like. I\'ve even heard that it can be used for plastic miniatures as well.

In fact, just 10 min. ago, I was scrubbing away old paint from one of my miniatures using the same stuff (the lure of painting character models over R&F...I always seem to end up with a lot of crappily painted characters lol)

It costed me what roughly translates into 6 $ for a bottle containing 1/4 litre, and you should be able to buy it at your local gas station. Great stuff!


\"Vernon! That light! ...The Jeffersons\' dog is back!

 

[Lurch]

Try Simple Green All Purpose Cleaner and a toothbrush. This stuff cleans paint off minis so well, it scares me to use it on my furniture!lol

 

[Sturmhalo]

If you want to strip the whole model then go with the previous suggestions. I personally use acetone, though have used a product called \'modelstrip\' which is handy as it doesn\'t melt plastic. Liquid poly is also pretty handy for stripping paint. Best used to clean off those awkward little bits of paint that stick in detail though as the fumes are pretty nausiating after a while!

Acetone and modelstrip both dissolve glue. Both super glue and epoxy!

 

[fredy]

just put it in a glas of water together with a cleaning tab ( the ond you put in the dishwashing machine ). After 24 hours you can remove the coulor with an old toothbrush and your mini is as new. it works with most colours not only with acryllics.

regards
fredy

 

[Chrispy]

I use my own concoction I call \"The Dip\" after the stuff in Roger Rabbit.. It basically consists of Pinesol, Ammonia, Window Cleaner, Bleach, and Oven cleaner.. not in any order. This stuff seems to leave the glue alone, but it is really potent. I have to wash minis thoroughly so that the primer will stick to it after having been soaked. I also kept an old attachment for my sonic brush thing which takes off that stuff in seconds. I just have to remember what color it is or risk washing my mouth out in chemicals... This has worked for me so far, as it reduces paint and sealer to glop but keeps the thing glued (unless I get too hasty and something breaks anyways..)

 

[Badaab]

I have some stuff I painted over five years ago (they\'re really scary looking) sitting in some vitual toxic waste... its a funiture polish remover called Strip X. I use this for heavier amounts of paint, or for things with caked on primer, or glue.

I got these lead Chaos Marines (circa 1985) that had easily three layers of paint and primer on them, and it all came off with the toxic junk and some water.

But, if you\'re going to use this stuff, be careful, it will eat through glue, plastic, putty, and your hands. Eye and hand protection is necessary, and a respirator mask couldn\'t hurt. It contains Methyl Chloride, which has been proven to cause cancer, but the stuff works really quickly, and will eat all the paint loose in about three or four hours.

Joe

 

[smokey]

removing acrylics

Scalecoat II model railroad paint stripper is what I use. I\'ve got 30 or so GW Space marines that I painted about four years ago, when I first started gaming. the paint is thick (straight out o the pot) and I put them together using zap-a-gap (or occasionally testors plastic cement), after painting the bitz individually. this stuff removes the paint in ten minutes, doesn\'t warp plastics, and will weaken zap, but not plastic cement. also, metal models can be left in it forever, with no ill effects (noticed so far). It runs about 12.95 a pint, but is re-usable, filter-able, and readily available at most model train supply stores. it\'s well worth the investment, \'cuz I\'ve had my current supply for over a year, and it still works like new!

Cheers,

Smokey

 

[azraphaelx]

Methylated spirits works quite well, on both metal and plastic, and doesnt affect adhesives (at least not superglue, araldite, or poly cement ) easy to get your hands on, cheap, adn starts working in about 15 mins.. add a toothbrush or ultrasonic cleaner and your off..


Azraphaelx (Tom the Tinkerer)

 

[Maeljin]

I tried the Pinesol and it is working really well.. too late to save one mini I got very frustrated with, but I\'m using it to strip another one I needed to repaint. Now if I could only find where I packed my giant case so that I could get to rework all the crappy painting jobs I did when I first started doing this.