?\'s about Tamiya QUick type putty

[SIGIL]

Hello I would really appreciate any info anyone might be able to impart on the properties of Tamiya Quick Type putty...

I am just wondering if it is safe to use in the creation of a commercial miniature original... I am not sureif that question is entirely clear....

Will this stuff survive the vulcanization process?

Thanks in advance.

 

[minimaker]

Origineel geplaatst door SIGIL
Will this stuff survive the vulcanization process?

I\'ve not yet heard of a epoxy putty that will not survive the vulcanization process. Well, that is, the harder putties like Milliput can break and I\'ve had a couple of times that brown stuff (old formula) delaminated but in all cases the cavity was ok.
I\'ve not worked with Tamiya putty but Chaz Elliot told me he has. So it should be ok to use.

Any particular reason why you want to use the Tamiya putty instead of for instance green stuff?

 

[minimaker]

As to properties. The putty has been discussed over at 1listsculpting. Some remarks:

- cures very hard.
- holds fine details well.
- softer and stickier than green stuff in use
- doesn\'t sticks to metal as well as GS.
- feels like a mix of milliput/green, cures brown stuff, though harder.
- easy to smooth, especially once it\'s cured a little.
- probably more expensive than GS (dependent on where you buy it I\'d guess).

Warning for those who are about to run to the local scale model stores: this is the 2 rolls in a box epoxy putty. Not the filler paste sold in tubes.

 

[SIGIL]

Thanks for that minimaker. As for why I want use Tamiya over GS.... It may seem a bit trivial, but I want to see if working with a more neutral color might help. I know that sometimes small details are difficult to see on a GS sculpt due to light and color. From the various champagne colored clay sculpts that I have seen, it seems the details of the sculpt are much more visible than those sculpted in darker clays.

However maintaning an intact original is VERY important to me. I guess I am just sentimental that way.

 

[minimaker]

Hehe, that\'s the first time I hear that reason for using Tamiya putty. Let me know what your experiences are in that respect. I\'ve never had problems seeing details with green stuff though (but then again, optivisors do help). I do have more problems when using brown stuff, which is a darker putty. So no surprise there.

I don\'t know your background, so I don\'t know if you ever had figures go through a vulcanizer. If not, this could be interesting to look at:
http://www.miniature-painting.net/cgi-bin/gallery/gallery.cgi?action=displayt&gallery=VisionsP1

The third sub article shows greens after vulcanisation. As you can see, several are damaged even if they are in GS. Do note that shape and construction are important for the survival of the master.
GS is more flexible than Milliput and other hard putties (I imagine Tamiya\'s to be one of those). This makes that it can give more during the mouldmaking proces and there is less risk of something snapping. this does not mean that hard putty masters can\'t survive. Chances are just different. To put you at ease, it\'s usually possible to repair a master afterwards if you want. Unless you use materials that can not be vulcanised of course.

 

[SIGIL]

thanks again Minimaker. That article is exactly the kind of thing I have been looking for. I will be sure to inform you of my results.

 

[minimaker]

@Sigil. Do you have opportunity to get your stuff cast? If not, we\'ve just started the organisation of the next visions on putty showcase and this one will have a casting option. So, if you want to have a master figure go through the whole proces you can join in. Provided you stick to the subject (not yet determined) and pay your share of the costs.

It\'s at the 1listsculpting mailinglist: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/1listsculpting/

The article I linked to is from VIP1. You can look at the same site to see the other VIPs (and VICs if you\'re interested).