Scenic / Diorama How To's...?

moonmin82

New member
I'm really keen to create a Silent Hill mini diorama but have no experience in creating such scenic pieces. The idea I have is to create a cross section of a corridor, so base (floor), back wall and possibly ceiling (as I want to include features such as strip lights). It would be 28 or 32mm scale approximately.

Does anybody know of any good tutorials which might be of use? It'd be handy to know appropriate materials and how to piece them together securely. Often when I see WIPs of such things it appears the background and minis are created and painted in isolation and then combined at the end. It'd also be good to see how best to fit together the finished pieces.

I'd like to explore the use of forced perspective to give a disorientating and uneasy view point.

Thanks in advance!
 

Dragonsreach

Super Moderator
Staff member
Does anybody know of any good tutorials which might be of use?
It'd be handy to know appropriate materials and how to piece them together securely.
I'd suggest Foamboard and Styrene sheet (plasticard) as two very good starting materials.
There are several manufacturers of Styrene sheet who have textured surfaces such as Square tiles, metal decking etc.. (Evergreen is one commonly available in the UK.)
Foamboard can be glued using PVA, but the core will melt with spray primers unless sealed with a coat of PVA. (B.T.D.T)

Doing Forced Perspective is very difficult and doesn't always work out as some people don't "get it". Plus it only really works from One point of view.
 

moonmin82

New member
Cheers DR. With foam board etc are there problems with the core when it comes to using superglue when pinning figures to the base?
 

moonmin82

New member
I guess I could attempt to PVA the pin in the foam core and use a dab of superglue on the feet.

Would balsa wood work for the base, if covered in a layer of firm plasticard or would it be too soft / flimsy?
 

Dragonsreach

Super Moderator
Staff member
Depends on the thickness of the balsa.
BUT last time I PVA'd balsa to Plastic the balsa curled. Wasn't impressed!
 

RuneBrush

New member
Have you got a sketch/photo of the scene you're after doing? If you're after a shaped base (e.g. slope/hill) builders insulation foam is a good place to start - but does suffer the same spray=melting problem as foamboard inner which as Mike has said PVA will seal. Larger pieces (1ft square and up) do benefit from a solid bottom such as 4mm/5mm MDF.

Depending on what you're after, I tend to assemble the base in principal (i.e. firm structures) and position the miniatures where they need to go. This way you can work out the best way of fixing them - for example if you're using insulation foam you can drill out a block and glue in a wine bottle cork to pin your mini into and then sculpt over the top to hide it (I hope that made sense).

Pete
 

Bailey03

Well-known member
I created something somewhat similar using just balsa wood and wood glue. I was going for a more medieval look, but you can see the end result in my gallery (my most recent posting). You can often find bags of assorted balsa wood strips at arts and craft stores (Micheal's or AC Moore in the USA). The thin strips are great for making the floor and baseboard along the wall. You can also find wide strips that would work for the wall and ceiling. Plasticard would probably be fine for that as well. I'd add something to the wall to give it a little more interesting finish. You can cover it with plaster to create a stucco finish. I think it would be cool to make it look like it's covered with old peeling wall paper. If you cut a sheet of paper to the right size and then soaked it in water that might create a more uneven texture. Make some tears, holes, etc and then glue it down to the wood or plasticard. I haven't tried it, so some trial and error would probably be required. Paper, cardstock, aluminum foil... all could possibly work.

Yes, the figure and base are usually done separately. It's much easier to access all parts of the figure before you attach it to the base. I'd recommend pinning the figure to the base. Drill a hole in each foot and glue a pin (straight portion of a paperclip works well). Then drill holes in the base for the pins to slide into. This will help secure the figure to the base when you glue it down. It is also helpful as you can temporarily put the figure on the base to see how everything looks together.

In general, MassiveVoodoo is a great place for basing tutorials. I don't think they have anything about this specifically, but there's a lot of other good info there that could be helpful.
http://massivevoodoo.blogspot.com/2009/10/tutorial-overview.html#basing
 

Bloodhowl

Active member
Cheers DR. With foam board etc are there problems with the core when it comes to using superglue when pinning figures to the base?


No. Use a Foam Safe CA. I've used this stuff with Foam body R/C aircraft. It seems to me to take a little longer to dry than normal superglue, but otherwise glues your fingers together in the exact same way. :wink:

View attachment 19570
 

moonmin82

New member
Thanks guys, all very good tips so plenty to think about.

I will post some sketches of my thoughts and plans so I can discuss what I am proposing.

Watch this space...
 

moonmin82

New member
With Salute looming on the horizon it is time for me to begin my diorama! Back in November I had an idea of a corridor scene to promote my Mad Clown Miniatures. I have ordered some 3mm foamboard with which I will construct the bulk of the corridor. The corridor itself will be inspired by Resident Evil and Silent Hill. I have started painting three resin mini's from my range and will be sculpting a further one especially.

I'll be making a start once the board arrives and will post some sketches of the corridor itself before I get started. I look forward to your comments and advice!
 

Sand Rat

New member
You want to seal any edges of the foam core as well - if you use spray paint to base coat, it will eat the foam.
 
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