Was just wondering what everyone uses for sculpting scratchbuilt greens. I\'m looking to start trying my hand at this and so far have some super sculpey and alot of green stuff saved up. Was wondering what else everyone uses. Also does anyone have any good reference sites for anatomy?
sculpting materials
- Thread starter Roddo
- Start date
You can use basically anything, but most people use green stuff, sculpey (yours as well) or fimo. You can also mix certain types of putty together. Cyril\'s site has a tutorial which has a printable correct anatomy picture on it.
neomodel
For example as well, Allan Carasco uses milliput, greenstuff and fimo on most of his models, sculpting different parts from different sculpting materials
neomodel
For example as well, Allan Carasco uses milliput, greenstuff and fimo on most of his models, sculpting different parts from different sculpting materials
Dragon Forge Design
New member
well hers a list.. anyone feel free to add.
Kneedatite..commonly called green stuff made by polymeric systems
Brown Kneedatite or brown stuff
Aves Apoxie Sculpt www.avesstudio.com
Magic Sculpt
Fimo
Super Sculpy
Sculpy III
Pemo ( another form od sculpy)
Milliput
Tamiya epoxy putty
Thats the most common list of materials.
Kneedatite..commonly called green stuff made by polymeric systems
Brown Kneedatite or brown stuff
Aves Apoxie Sculpt www.avesstudio.com
Magic Sculpt
Fimo
Super Sculpy
Sculpy III
Pemo ( another form od sculpy)
Milliput
Tamiya epoxy putty
Thats the most common list of materials.
Einion
New member
<cough> Kneadatite, Magic Sculp, Sculpey, Premo; it\'ll help Roddo look for tips online to have the right spellings 
I use Magic Sculp mostly, plus Kneadatite for certain kinds of jobs where its \'waxy\' texture is better suited and for flexibility in the finished part (like flowing hair, much less risk of cracking off the tips). I have Super Sculpey too but I can\'t get along with it yet, I\'ll have to learn a very different way of working to be able to sculpt with it. If you see references to MS, GS and SS they\'re abbreviations for these.
Recently I\'ve added, Apoxie Sculpt which is like a softer, stickier version of MS. I also have some Fimo which I add to MS if I want a long working time, although this is at the cost of strength.
If you do a search here for each of the product names Roddo you\'ll find a bunch of threads that mention them and some of them will have links to step-by-steps and tutorials elsewhere.
Einion
I use Magic Sculp mostly, plus Kneadatite for certain kinds of jobs where its \'waxy\' texture is better suited and for flexibility in the finished part (like flowing hair, much less risk of cracking off the tips). I have Super Sculpey too but I can\'t get along with it yet, I\'ll have to learn a very different way of working to be able to sculpt with it. If you see references to MS, GS and SS they\'re abbreviations for these.
Recently I\'ve added, Apoxie Sculpt which is like a softer, stickier version of MS. I also have some Fimo which I add to MS if I want a long working time, although this is at the cost of strength.
If you do a search here for each of the product names Roddo you\'ll find a bunch of threads that mention them and some of them will have links to step-by-steps and tutorials elsewhere.
Real anatomy or mini anatomy?
Einion
looking for mini anatomy, basically looking for body length ratios in 28 and 54 mm scales.
Also if I use sculpey or fimo can they be cooked more than once? I guess what I\'m asking is if I build uo slowly can I set the clay after each stage without damaging previous stages? Also if I add GS to a clay sculpt do I have to do the GS last or can the GS be cooked as well without damage?
Thanks all for the responses, much appreciated.
Also if I use sculpey or fimo can they be cooked more than once? I guess what I\'m asking is if I build uo slowly can I set the clay after each stage without damaging previous stages? Also if I add GS to a clay sculpt do I have to do the GS last or can the GS be cooked as well without damage?
Thanks all for the responses, much appreciated.
Gonna keep picking your brains while I have questions. What type of fimo is easiest to work with, classic or soft? I hear that classic takes a bit of work to get it kneaded to where its easily formed, but to me that seems like it might be easier to sculpt by being more rigid. I guess it depends on what your doing, obviously the rough shapes aren\'t as important but the fine detail is where the specific qualities a certain modeling compound has distinguish it from others.
Einion
New member
Get a block of both, see what you think yourself. From what I can see the firmer type would be better for certain jobs while the softer type might be better for general sculpting but it depends on your \'touch\'. And you can firm up polymer clays after roughing in the shape by popping the piece in the refrigerator.
I know that some sculptors blend in some Sculpey III to Super Sculpey, partly to change the colour from sweet potato but also to alter the firmness if I remember correctly.
Einion
I know that some sculptors blend in some Sculpey III to Super Sculpey, partly to change the colour from sweet potato but also to alter the firmness if I remember correctly.
Einion
marteaufou
New member
I use super sculpey for big sculpture and for armature of little works, and for details or 54 mm scales I use fimo soft wish is very easy to knead and very good for tiny details. Fimo classic is more hard and is close to super sculpey. these putties can be baked a lot of time but it\'s better to bake at lower temperature and the last time at the normal temperature. I advice you to make your oven like this; I use it every time and there is no problem of resistance, the sculpture is well baked.
Miliput and green stuff can be baked with fimo but it must be dry or it\'s going to inflate.
Ps : sorry for my english, there are may be a lot of mistakes.
Miliput and green stuff can be baked with fimo but it must be dry or it\'s going to inflate.
Ps : sorry for my english, there are may be a lot of mistakes.
