Showing my newest works before I get into things!

dennis.

dennis.

New member
And then there was light! Wow J, firkin' awesome, the nuances on the left side guys armour is outstanding... you do right, acknowledge your strengths and maximise their impact. I need to find mine, s'pose it's a matter of trying more variation in mini's, i do have DE's from lots of other independants! Thanx for the pics J's lil lady ;)
 
BloodASmedium

BloodASmedium

[img]http://pnp
Glad you guys like it denny I really feel that DE are your thing man. I mean every single one you turn out is amazing degree of craftmanship. And the most important thing g and what declares them your niche is that you simply ENJOY THEM, EACH AND EVERYTHING ONE OF YOUR DE YOU ENJOY YOU SEE IF YOUR PAINTING GREAT MODEL ESPN I ALL THE ONESTERS YOU ENJOY AND YOU ENJOY THE SHITE OUT OF DE THAN THAT TELLS ME THE I YOUR STRENGTHS. ESPN I ALL THE DARK COLORS FROM THE SINCE ON THE FEMALE RIDER AND THE ENCHANTRESS TO THE ARMOR AND BACK CLOSE OF THE DE w/the baby dragon THATS YOUR NICHE.
 
Meph

Meph

Cat-herder Extraordinaire
Indeed, the subtle nuances on the armour really sell it, like it's really festering before ripping open because it can no longer contain the daemon.
Crisp pictures are a joy to look at over the morning coffee.
 
BloodASmedium

BloodASmedium

[img]http://pnp
View attachment 31436working in the 3rd after the 3rd is finished I will start the base work to have 3/5 fully done weathered greased bloodied and grimey. Then well start the 4th and 5th I do it this way cause 1) keeps color balance like our female brother in arms sionid said. And 2 it keeps the forward momentum going. It's inspirational .
 
Dragonsreach

Dragonsreach

Super Moderator
Staff member
John, the Middle one (i.e the newest one) to me the darkness on the shoulder pad is incongruous with the leg and Forearm.
Either it needs to be reduced on the shoulder pad so that it's more in keeping with how the shadow seems to lie on the breastplate and leg or the leg adjusted to match the pad.
My suggestion is to adjust the shoulder.
 
BloodASmedium

BloodASmedium

[img]http://pnp
I tried to blend it into the mudstone and then the darkest part in the inner side I'm going to show a frontal angle if at that point you still suggest the shoulder be lightned up then it will def be addressed as your my main advice hover.View attachment 31441
 
Sionid

Sionid

New member
Urgh, this makes me feel a mighty need to get a proper camera. Soooo much better. Sorry, wallet...

So nasty, so excellent. I do agree with DR about the shoulder, maybe incorporating some of the warmth of the leg-shadow would help keep everything cohesive?
 
BloodASmedium

BloodASmedium

[img]http://pnp
I see now what your taking bout papa DR and sionid . Thank god for the w I p I didn't even realize I skipped a mudstone in the shoulder and with painting hypnosis I wouldn't have seen it. Thanks again to my panel extraordinaire . You guys(and gals) are golden guns. I think I fixed it. Through in a midtone of sanguineary red from (p3)
 
Dragonsreach

Dragonsreach

Super Moderator
Staff member
Basically the light source is at 11 o'clock, the leg shadow is correct at 12 through to 6 o'clock and the shoulder pad needs to match.
As it stands the shoulder pad seems to look as if the light is coming from 12:30-1o'clock position.

AND if it's any consolation I've just been struggling with the same issue on my latest figure. A Desert Dragon from the other French company who's name escapes me. (Not Rackham)
 
BloodASmedium

BloodASmedium

[img]http://pnp
Done thank you sisonid. My kid sister, I never wanted(lol jk) and papa DR. I really am starting to believe your the messiah watching over your flock of painting sheep. No one could be that good at painting and explaing how to paint without being touched by the hand of thy almighty. Check these photos out. I fixed it.

a midtone layerd in a couple of scratches to hide the future eye drawn mistakes that scream hey look over here I'm a mistake. Definitely looks so much better now.
 
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BloodASmedium

BloodASmedium

[img]http://pnp
I'm glad you told me guys I've reduced the color to balance it out more. And honestly I'm glad to here other high profile painters like yourself mike are going through the same thin and honesly the only time i feel like agreat painter is when another great artist tries to help me rectify the issues at hand. It makes me feel that I'm worth it for other artists who see my shortcomings on certain areas to be fixed to bring about the best painted miniatures that I possibly can. When I don't get a criticism here and there I kinda feel like people are being humble which is great but if I don't fix a problem and learn to look for these issues in my future projects then it's impossible for me to get better. I've reduced the harshness of the heavy shadowing by lightening it up with a lighter reddish purple to keep the congrats like you and sionid have stated. I'm on these w I p to get better and honestly mike you have gotten Me farther than I thought I could. Tech in me colors to use as compliment shades to helping me with proper shadow placement. And for that I wouldn't give it up for all the miniature painting secrets in the world.

Thank you mike and sis.
 
BloodASmedium

BloodASmedium

[img]http://pnp
Okay I'm going to address the thickness and viscosity if mixing pigments with fixer . 1st I make two puddles of paint 1) alot of pig powder with a drop of fixer in the first image it shows this.View attachment 31452at image 1 it's very thick THIS IS BOT THE FIRST AOPLICATION OF THE PIGMENT MY SECOND POOL OF PAINT IS A VERY THINNED DOWN PIG WITH FIXER SEEN IN IMAGE 2)View attachment 31453 here you see the difference in its consistancy I apply a GLAZE ( if you will) of the pig and fixer and water (you can tell its thin enough by putting a puddle on a document where the words show through the glaze puddle. This is my first application of the pig powder (the glazed down thinned version) is applied to random patches and crevises. You may or may not repeat this depending on what or how intense you want your rust pockets. After this I will take the first mixed batch(the one that's really thick) and apply it on SOME NOT ALL OF THE RANDOM PATCHES AND RNDOM CREVISES. This simulates degrees of rust. More natural. This is now seen in the following images.View attachment 31454this image shows just the glaze mix of the pig. And the image with the 3 bases shows both thick and thinned applied.View attachment 31455
 
BloodASmedium

BloodASmedium

[img]http://pnp
The next steps like on the metal on my minis is too apply edge highlights with mother il silver or any other high shiny bright colored silver. Stay tuned the moment these dry ill show you the results of those steps with the edge highlighting.

heres the bases 3/4 finished. Some pig powders , some verdigris patina , some blood and edge highlighted. This image shows
 
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BloodASmedium

BloodASmedium

[img]http://pnp
Here's the image.onced the bases color on the rubble is dry then I will do the final steps of glazing down all the harshness . Stay tuned the final image of the bases is coming up. It will show the difference a glaze make. Let me leave you with this no matter mini or base or anything for that matter my final steps is a glaze of many colors over applied and applied over and over to 1) tone down any harshness and 2) unify the whole piece and give the model base and anything else a cohesiveness.
stay tuned folks.
 
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