BloodASmedium
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Thanks so much teronus..to have a slayer sword winner say that is a buzz in itself!!! My hero too m8..crossed paths for a reason..we're gonna be the two most improved painters by 2016..guarantee it..
Showing my newest works before I get into things!
- Thread starter BloodASmedium
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BloodASmedium
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eh thanks meph..your my boy I'm telling g ya your gonna make themags...he's gonna mail you when he gets a chance.he said looks good..
Canny
Active member
Looking fantastic buddy, I like the gems too.
I gotta make you try a tiny glaze of white on 1/4 of your highest highlight. As 10balls said to me once, "Hit it with the contrast hammer!" You have the pure black if you go that dark you should do the same in the other direction. Even if you just do it on the face it will pull the viewer that little bit extra. Trust me
Pic the part you want to shine the most, as its a glaze it will be translucent so your colours underneath with come through a bit.
Grats on making the top in the last 7 DAYS tooo!
I gotta make you try a tiny glaze of white on 1/4 of your highest highlight. As 10balls said to me once, "Hit it with the contrast hammer!" You have the pure black if you go that dark you should do the same in the other direction. Even if you just do it on the face it will pull the viewer that little bit extra. Trust me
Pic the part you want to shine the most, as its a glaze it will be translucent so your colours underneath with come through a bit.
Grats on making the top in the last 7 DAYS tooo!
BloodASmedium
[img]http://pnp
Normally canny I will try anything that is told to me.my thing is this I've tried an attempt 4 times on numerous minis.my skill with white being there are so many and I've tried2 from reaper and 2 from citadel...my skillset with glazing white has proved a very muddy finish...I don't know why but the truth is I'm Def not getting the hang of it..when I've tried it's the one thing I've return to the posts with a holy shit that's terrible..what I'm saying is its the one thing that sounded great and I've proved myself not to do it right..I don't know If it's the paint I'm using or what...I've always been against down to black up to white but truth is its been working for me the black at least but I cannot seem to get the hang of the white thing...normally Ide go right in and show up with it and say hey guys like this...and it's done but using white as a glaze I'm just not getting it done it's a nemesis of mine like nmm sso what I am going to do is keep it ,practice it on a red surface and then because I'm not going to seal the Marines so I don't mess up the paintjob..and then when mastered I will return and hit it with the contrast hammer in the future..thanks for always lending your eyes and giving me such valuable if as I've done everything asked by the readers but I can't seem to get the hang of the white..I'm Def doing something wrong..I just don't know what and btw what white thinned with what and with what size brush I feel out of theservice steps I'm Def doing something wrong..I know it.this is going to be my next skill that white thing and then using it in conjunction with light points (dots) when you have further info canny about what tools for the job tto glaze white pass it on to me I'll admit it sounds like I'm needing this I've just failed epically in the passed.
BloodASmedium
[img]http://pnp
The second of 10 marines is started.View attachment 34184here is the first steps on laying in the shades by "2 brush blending) I've been practicing this skill for 3 months 8-12 hours sittings and you can see I've learned this skill not only is is faster than layering for it gives very smooth gradients. I will never not two brush blend to adding of shades and highlights. It's enabled me to paint the most versatile kit in the history of games workshop models... The hall of gamer "space Marie tact squads." If you don't use this I advocate learning and in addition to use it as a mainstay in your miniature painting.
BloodASmedium
[img]http://pnp
I've posted the first pic 15 minutes later I'm posting me adding the shades down to black. That's the time it took me to go in and two brush blend. This tech is that fast gentlemen.
BloodASmedium
[img]http://pnp
Wow I got a feedback from Parsifal that guy an paint man... Thanks for being in agreement. That helps me fortify my strat. And teronus go at your own pace me I just have too much time on my hands.lol and I'm sure though a tad bit slower it will be equally impressive. Do exactly what you've been doing each model this time around is looking better and better and all of high standards and btw your own pace has left you with 2golds and a sword.. Must be doing something right .. That's how I see it!! REMEBER BUD "BIDE OUR TIME" ter knows what i mean brother.
fluisterwoud
Active member
BAM, your awesome work on these marines recently has inspired me to start a mini project of my own, the bits-box Librarian.
Canny
Active member
Dam right 2BB is fantastic as well as loaded brush (two colours) base colour and a small dot of the colour you're transitioning to, as you move your brush across the mini you go from new to base colour.
I Know what you mean about the white can be a bit chalky sometimes maybe a little mroe water or not play with it so long. I find cleaning your brush every few mins to get rid of the pigments that are hardening works quite well. I have a citadell skull white and army painters warpaint matt white, I do find the skull white harder to use for glazing (its the oposite to what it's designed for).
This is my way, not the best way but it works for me
I use vallejo glaze medium, as time goes on I use less and less and now mostly water, but its benifical to use the medium to get the hang of it, I swore buy it a year ago. Its hard to give exact ratios, you want it about 50/50 water-milk fluidity, I use it in all sorts of ratio's but this is about what I start with then dilute more and overlap other colour highlight on top to get the transition (just like your awesome face job!). Here is a pic I just did showing the dilution of paint, the last one I would call coloured water (Double the water v paint of previous mix), thats for softening the edges. The blob of white and dots and yellow thats older paint.
I don't wipe on a towel for white just on my thumb to check ( I do if I load the brush too much) faster it dries the chalkier it gets. You want it so the paint flows nice but not too fast off the brush or it gets sloppy. I did afew lines to show what thickness you can get, and on the nail trying to showing consistency. you can see the first 2 are qutie strong but not totally white reletive to the blob of white there. the last one you can hardly see.
I have a no1 pure red sable and a Kolinsky 1 anything like that the artist ones, not the short ones. If its got a good tip you dont need to go smaller.
Im sure you are familiar with this section but Im on a roll and thinking and writing as I go.
You can cut in the edges to make the white thinner too, if you want a super small line its easier just to go either side with the colour underneath, or reduce the highlight buy going back over it the other way, pulling brush towards the middle tone with a more diluted middle highlight colour.
Every ones different and like you say practice is key! hell if we were all the same we would not appreciate everyones diverse skillset.
Most of this SM is just white edge highlight but not all over it just in parts to help show the seperation and shine of armor, I did use the green to soften it. I also went back over the edges and one end with the diluted green to soften the transition and harmonise. I left one end crisp to show the shine. you can take back the white buy glazing other colours over the top.
Hope this helps
Happy painting
I Know what you mean about the white can be a bit chalky sometimes maybe a little mroe water or not play with it so long. I find cleaning your brush every few mins to get rid of the pigments that are hardening works quite well. I have a citadell skull white and army painters warpaint matt white, I do find the skull white harder to use for glazing (its the oposite to what it's designed for).
This is my way, not the best way but it works for me
I use vallejo glaze medium, as time goes on I use less and less and now mostly water, but its benifical to use the medium to get the hang of it, I swore buy it a year ago. Its hard to give exact ratios, you want it about 50/50 water-milk fluidity, I use it in all sorts of ratio's but this is about what I start with then dilute more and overlap other colour highlight on top to get the transition (just like your awesome face job!). Here is a pic I just did showing the dilution of paint, the last one I would call coloured water (Double the water v paint of previous mix), thats for softening the edges. The blob of white and dots and yellow thats older paint.
I don't wipe on a towel for white just on my thumb to check ( I do if I load the brush too much) faster it dries the chalkier it gets. You want it so the paint flows nice but not too fast off the brush or it gets sloppy. I did afew lines to show what thickness you can get, and on the nail trying to showing consistency. you can see the first 2 are qutie strong but not totally white reletive to the blob of white there. the last one you can hardly see.
I have a no1 pure red sable and a Kolinsky 1 anything like that the artist ones, not the short ones. If its got a good tip you dont need to go smaller.
Im sure you are familiar with this section but Im on a roll and thinking and writing as I go.
You can cut in the edges to make the white thinner too, if you want a super small line its easier just to go either side with the colour underneath, or reduce the highlight buy going back over it the other way, pulling brush towards the middle tone with a more diluted middle highlight colour.
Every ones different and like you say practice is key! hell if we were all the same we would not appreciate everyones diverse skillset.
Most of this SM is just white edge highlight but not all over it just in parts to help show the seperation and shine of armor, I did use the green to soften it. I also went back over the edges and one end with the diluted green to soften the transition and harmonise. I left one end crisp to show the shine. you can take back the white buy glazing other colours over the top.
Hope this helps
Happy painting
BloodASmedium
[img]http://pnp
Thanks flu I've been leaving step by step on blood angels and a blue armored librarian I would offer any help hints or answer any questions for anything related other than that get yourself down and guaranteed your models are on the rise and looking good add your own stamp style and let's have a peek..keep it up and thanks much of matey!!! Arrrrr
BloodASmedium
[img]http://pnp
Hmm mm now that is exactly what I've been looking for I'm sorry I had to coax you into that but I needed it all canny the whole kit and kaboodle...and to think I thought you weren't going to give me what I've termed the canny diagram thingie...lol now this I can try....thasks canny exactly what I was looking for and btw to prevent drying I think I'll throw in some retarddent this way if I don't like and have to fire up again I get some time to take it off undoing any harm of my muddines...
Thanks bro your golden m8 in every way shape and form suuuhweeeetness!!!
Thanks bro your golden m8 in every way shape and form suuuhweeeetness!!!
BloodASmedium
[img]http://pnp
Btw canny wonderfully manicured nails mate....lmao no really like a fu@@in hand model bud...I hate to show my nails on film it looks like the firkin apocalypse zombie hand..lol
BloodASmedium
[img]http://pnp
Sounds good to me ter digga yes it's cold in space man..lol
Are you sure, is there another model you would like me to paint more? It will be faster than golden boy that's for sure, this guy is almost all metallic it will be faster not to many cloths and crap and half a face is golden too, that's the kind of project i wont get bored. If it's a go i will go down town this week end and grab that and the vision mag you'r in.
Later bud
