Octavian80
New member
Those look so awesome! Teach me how to weather!!! :worship!: Lol
Showing my newest works before I get into things!
- Thread starter BloodASmedium
- Start date
BloodASmedium
[img]http://pnp
OK-I will then!!! Lol hang tight ill leave you a PM tomorrow!!!
Captain927
New member
Well if you are offering, I'll take tips on TMM please.
BloodASmedium
[img]http://pnp
Well ok gents- tomorrow ill post some general things that can get folks that beaten weathered and rusty metal I've come to use a my trademark effects. It's no problem and I'm glad folks are interested!!! Makes me feel mmm mmmm goood!!!
Octavian80
New member
Awesome! Thanks BAM! I can practice some weathering on my Zombicide figs so they can truly look like they belong in Zpoc you're world haha.
BloodASmedium
[img]http://pnp
A SBS for weathering steel , iron etc.
what you'll need.
1) chainmail/ iron breaker and dark metallic steel color.
2)nuln oil and or black paint.
3)scorched brown
4) bestial brown
5) vermin brown
6) runefang steel
7) mithril silver GW or valleo model color silver
8) white
9) agrax earthshade.
what you'll need.
1) chainmail/ iron breaker and dark metallic steel color.
2)nuln oil and or black paint.
3)scorched brown
4) bestial brown
5) vermin brown
6) runefang steel
7) mithril silver GW or valleo model color silver
8) white
9) agrax earthshade.
bgcdazzler
New member
Awesome - do continue!
*grabs popcorn and sits at the front of the class*
*grabs popcorn and sits at the front of the class*
BloodASmedium
[img]http://pnp
After priming your model black.
1)paint on the chainmail basecoat.
2 give a general wash of nuln oil and or chaos black mix. (Remeber to use water and not lahmian medium , as this can really dull the metallics. It takes a bit linger but if you use very thin coats to hyoid up it will retain the shune(thank you skelette)
3) in the recesses only layer in the scorched brown.and random spots of scorched brown on any flat metal surfaces as well.
4) dilute the bestial brown and now lay that in the recesses.
5) after it dries ,Do the same with the vermin brown. Random patches as well.
6 build up your layers on any flat surfaces with chainmail and runefang steel . On the edges make sure you "highlight the edges" with this color as well( when edge highlighting fan your brush out until its not a point but a flat edge . This will make sure your edge highlights hit just the edges and not get into the cracks you've layered your browns into
7)now use the runefang steel in its own and repeat the highlighting and edge highlighting process.
8) on the last 1/3 of your edge highlights use the valleo silver . It's very bright so keep your edge highlights tight and str8. This will really bring out the depth and shape of the model.
9)mix white and valleo silver and apply sparingly again just the the edgings when highlighting.
With this same color apply teeny tiny str8 scratches with the flattened sables of your brush . Diff sizes in length and diff directions. I cannot emphasize this enough make the scratches tight and thin. The thinner the better.
10)now use agrax earthshade (GLOSS) as this as opposed to reg agrax will leave a shiny surface. After all even dull metal is 1) reflective and 2) shiny.
Optional if your doing iron as opposed to steel you can use rust colored pigment powders by MIG, FORGEWORLD, TAMIYA etc. and hit random patches or spots of the armor for rust effects. The way I use pigment powders is I take the powder and put a bit in my well palette then I take the fastener and put that via my brush into the powder and mix. Depending on how intense I want my rust is how much I dilute my pig powders with the fastener . I then dip my brush into the mix and gently hit random spots that I feel rust will accumulate and form. If you use too much and it's for eg too orangey than hit it with the agrax earthshade to knock it back.
NOTE any colors you are not sure if you have from another paint company ... Than simply type into google what the conversions are for the paints you DO HAVE.
VIOLA - enjoy
BasM any questions feel free to ask. Just follow the steps and practice practice practice!!!
1)paint on the chainmail basecoat.
2 give a general wash of nuln oil and or chaos black mix. (Remeber to use water and not lahmian medium , as this can really dull the metallics. It takes a bit linger but if you use very thin coats to hyoid up it will retain the shune(thank you skelette)
3) in the recesses only layer in the scorched brown.and random spots of scorched brown on any flat metal surfaces as well.
4) dilute the bestial brown and now lay that in the recesses.
5) after it dries ,Do the same with the vermin brown. Random patches as well.
6 build up your layers on any flat surfaces with chainmail and runefang steel . On the edges make sure you "highlight the edges" with this color as well( when edge highlighting fan your brush out until its not a point but a flat edge . This will make sure your edge highlights hit just the edges and not get into the cracks you've layered your browns into
7)now use the runefang steel in its own and repeat the highlighting and edge highlighting process.
8) on the last 1/3 of your edge highlights use the valleo silver . It's very bright so keep your edge highlights tight and str8. This will really bring out the depth and shape of the model.
9)mix white and valleo silver and apply sparingly again just the the edgings when highlighting.
With this same color apply teeny tiny str8 scratches with the flattened sables of your brush . Diff sizes in length and diff directions. I cannot emphasize this enough make the scratches tight and thin. The thinner the better.
10)now use agrax earthshade (GLOSS) as this as opposed to reg agrax will leave a shiny surface. After all even dull metal is 1) reflective and 2) shiny.
Optional if your doing iron as opposed to steel you can use rust colored pigment powders by MIG, FORGEWORLD, TAMIYA etc. and hit random patches or spots of the armor for rust effects. The way I use pigment powders is I take the powder and put a bit in my well palette then I take the fastener and put that via my brush into the powder and mix. Depending on how intense I want my rust is how much I dilute my pig powders with the fastener . I then dip my brush into the mix and gently hit random spots that I feel rust will accumulate and form. If you use too much and it's for eg too orangey than hit it with the agrax earthshade to knock it back.
NOTE any colors you are not sure if you have from another paint company ... Than simply type into google what the conversions are for the paints you DO HAVE.
VIOLA - enjoy
BasM any questions feel free to ask. Just follow the steps and practice practice practice!!!
Captain927
New member
Nice description BAM. Thanks for this. I assume, as with most painting seminars, you will be mailing us all an identical piece to showcase our newly learned skills?
BloodASmedium
[img]http://pnp
I really would if I could : true story:
Captain927
New member
I'll have to use a dwarf or two then.
BloodASmedium
[img]http://pnp
Now let me also add the best miniatures this technique works on is armor with lots of edging , ornate chaos armor etc. the pop is from the edging highlighting . And the shadowing and wear and tear is from the layering in the browns etc in the crevices. While I've used this on armor that flat paneled in its majority .... That will take some overall practice , as flat panneled armor requires good blending and not so much the play of colors and scratches. To follow up , while I can't send minis to everyone ,which I could, feel free to post your w I p as you go or the finished armor so I can see where you need to add this or alleviate that.
It'd be my pleasure this is me doing what David (baily03) did for me... PAYING IT FORWARD!!!
BasM
It'd be my pleasure this is me doing what David (baily03) did for me... PAYING IT FORWARD!!!
BasM
Octavian80
New member
Thanks BAM!! Really appreciate it. I'll study this and try to apply it when I come across a mini that would suit its purposes. You're THE best!!
BloodASmedium
[img]http://pnp
My final CB entry Coming to a close
This is a few shots showing the finality of the tank itself headed for much competition in the vehicle/ monster category at CB 2017. "GROT AMBITION". Now just awa
Irving certain materials and kits from the company that I use for almost all my weathering effects. none other than "MIG" !!!hers a sneaky perky if the Lil waaaaghmachine that I'm awaiting basing materials for the scenery and narrative. It'll be my first time using some of the kits I've ordered . Not worried in the least as I have a great talent for being able to copy things from photos etc. and win or lose I'm soo excited how my tiny terror turned out .
enjoy for your viewing pleasure and inspiration here is the tank from "GROT AMBITION"
This is a few shots showing the finality of the tank itself headed for much competition in the vehicle/ monster category at CB 2017. "GROT AMBITION". Now just awa
Irving certain materials and kits from the company that I use for almost all my weathering effects. none other than "MIG" !!!hers a sneaky perky if the Lil waaaaghmachine that I'm awaiting basing materials for the scenery and narrative. It'll be my first time using some of the kits I've ordered . Not worried in the least as I have a great talent for being able to copy things from photos etc. and win or lose I'm soo excited how my tiny terror turned out .
enjoy for your viewing pleasure and inspiration here is the tank from "GROT AMBITION"
BloodASmedium
[img]http://pnp
Hmmm verticle photos showing sideways. Ill try to correct this later.
BloodASmedium
[img]http://pnp
View attachment 54816View attachment 54817View attachment 54818View attachment 54819Once again feast the eyes on the photos that are right side up!!!
anotherpainter
New member
lovely and cute little tank (if something like a cute tank exists).
i really like the mass scratches and the heat coloring of the cannons.
How did you do the black and while borders? Where the clean square fade away from use.
The contrast of the clean chessboard into the used up borders is perfect.
Is this painted or printed? Dragged the color out? But then how did you get the color to stop so abrupt without forming a clean line?
EDIT: i searched your wip.
so the black white are decals and you said you "blended them in" but i dont get how you can do that so nice.
Did you paint on top of the decals in really tiny strokes?
i really like the mass scratches and the heat coloring of the cannons.
How did you do the black and while borders? Where the clean square fade away from use.
The contrast of the clean chessboard into the used up borders is perfect.
Is this painted or printed? Dragged the color out? But then how did you get the color to stop so abrupt without forming a clean line?
EDIT: i searched your wip.
so the black white are decals and you said you "blended them in" but i dont get how you can do that so nice.
Did you paint on top of the decals in really tiny strokes?
Last edited:
BloodASmedium
[img]http://pnp
Thanks all you guys.
Toadie your approval always means mountains of volumes.
Another painter. Yes my check board are always decals. I paint on the basecoat(chainmail) then wash it and slurp up any wash that forms in the middle of the hacks. After that I redblend the damage and chainmail in and around the borders unevenly. Than highlight as normal, add scratches then this time glaze all of it ( clean and dirtied up parts of the checks with agrax earthshade. Viola instant fading. It takes some practice but those are the steps.
Thanks for noticing the CANNON HEADS. It's very important not to just add black soot and gunpowder , rather a rainbow to show the heating of metal. So it's blah soot than inbewtwen the base color and soot will be reiki and fleshshade.
Toadie your approval always means mountains of volumes.
Another painter. Yes my check board are always decals. I paint on the basecoat(chainmail) then wash it and slurp up any wash that forms in the middle of the hacks. After that I redblend the damage and chainmail in and around the borders unevenly. Than highlight as normal, add scratches then this time glaze all of it ( clean and dirtied up parts of the checks with agrax earthshade. Viola instant fading. It takes some practice but those are the steps.
Thanks for noticing the CANNON HEADS. It's very important not to just add black soot and gunpowder , rather a rainbow to show the heating of metal. So it's blah soot than inbewtwen the base color and soot will be reiki and fleshshade.
