Ide looove to say you guys know me I’m like a ferkin race horse- but it’s just me crippled donating ALL my time to the craft- OH YEEAH I HAVE A SUPRISE AT THE END ABOUT THAT MOUTH- I’ll be ripping a hair out of smas hide( sorry lil guy but it’s for a comp)and using it for a couple of stringy drools!!!
Yeah thanks so much matey- I’m starting with this face thing and will be working my way outward-! gettingthere lil by lil. You know me I bounce around but this one I did diff started wurh the face snufalupakuss!!!
I am with the rest of the great...this is one weird mini. BUT...even at this early stage yours is looking better than the box art and his were rdness is making a little more sense.
Got the latest WD in the mail yesterday - there were quite the fancy minis towards the end there. Though I do believe the painter deserved at least a full fold
Red glazed in some parts now I’ll go in and reglaze green. This process(routine) goes on and on each time I take pictures in different lighting to see where I’m at and pictures don’t lie- never photoshopping- ide prefer I know exactly what these judges are seeing which is hopefully the same thing I’m seeing.tio of thy day: if a portion of a model is making a 90View attachment 64466degree angle or close to it it is the same highlight value.top of head, outstretched arms, top of shoulders. A bent inner stretching forwatd. Athese are all candidates.farkest parts will be obviously those that lie directly underneath the highest lights at that 90degree angle- ex, underneath the outstretched arms, armpits lower waist of torso under pecs, behind the bent knee (hamstrings) , chin. This is your template. This is what I see when I paint . I see things in shades and highlights , in these are primary , secondary, tertiary shades and highlights as well.View attachment 64465
As I said back and fourth for example keep keen on that left arm when I reshape the highlighted arm with ( because of its position ) secondary shading hues
Yessir that’s EXACTLY what jeremie tebouls figopedia states “when the highlights are where they should be it helps draw the yet around the model- this is called-“MOVEMENT” the flow of a miniature. Dynamic if you will.
Really love your interpretation of these Nurgle characters. The muted colours work so well - makes me want to have a crack at them, even though I really don't need to add to my abundant grey army.
I’m for like rem never assume I’m done on a mini for ex here you can clearly see the upper half of the model is much more twists completion(even though still far from finished) than the lower half- I’ll balance the model out next by starting the leg outstretched forward and bring it up to speed of the upper half- after that I “my routine again) go back in and add more of this and that. Constantly taking photos to get an accurate read of the model . My routine is a back and fourth- tidy up, back and fourth , tidy up !!!! This goes on I ol themidel I feel is finished. Everybody has their own routine , I’m certain there are easier ways to do so and a more organized way but this is MINE- I’ve grown comfortable with this and I can do it at a fast pace as I said I know it like the back of my handView attachment 64493
another thing I wanted to point out is I use a palette that contains s nothing but desaturated colors on all my models. Even a human will be a candidate for this ideal. This sets my style part it works out great in models that are putrid and decayed simply because it makes full use of the compliments showing up much more intense. Let’s take these guys the “colors of decay” I call em. The greens go up very pale and start very desaturated to begin with.THEREFORE when it comes time for rust, wounds even shading - the color harmony can be seen at a much more defined way. So blood from wounds are a deep red against a pale green. Bruising of purples and blue along with necrotic flesh show up much greater against the pale green. This gives the readability to the model in what I find Ti be visually readable to the fullest extent!