Simple Question Thread

[anotherpainter]

I could not find a simple/stupid question thread on this forum so i create one.

1) Shine in glazes/washes
Sometimes when i glaze or wash, after drying the paint leaves highly shiny places.
I break them down with a rough brush and they disappear. Is this normal? do i do something wrong?

2) Real Glaze material
I do use glaze medium from Vallejo and really like it. BUT there are situations where i want something that has no color but the consistency of paint. A glaze medium that is not liquid at all. Or something to make a paint less fluid. Is there something like that on the market?
(i tried drying out glaze medium and use that but its not good and very expensive method)

3) poison in resin?
I sometimes read about you should not breath in if you sand or drill resin.
Is there anything scientific evidence for that claim?

4) How the f*** does a wetpallet work?
The baking paper does not allow waterflow.
Some people talk about "semi flow" but such a thing does not exist.
So how does it work... It is just that the air above the wet underground is saturated with water so your paint cant evaporate?

5) Superglue ?= Superglue
I noticed that on all my resin parts the superglue breaks first. Is this because of the problem of glueing resin or is it because i only buy super cheap superglue. Is there a noticeable quality difference between different brands?

 

[MAXXxxx]

1. you mentioned, you use Vallejo Glaze Medium. It's normal with it because some of the chemicals in the medium they use.
VAllejo Glaze medium is not 100% glaze medium, has a bit of flow-improver + thinner(hence longer drying time) and possibly some matt/satin medium in it too.

2. matt / satin / gloss medium from Golden Acrylics for example, or heavy gloss gel from GA. (Vallejo also has something similar)
Then again the best imho (also helps with step 1): learn to use water.

3. not really, but in a way it can be similar to asbest. It's simply not a good idea to breathe in very small, sharp particles as they can damage the lungs

4. don't use glossy, very HD baking paper. cheapest version works best. Alternatively you could use paper made for wet-palettes (not that expensive)

5. probably, but I haven't seen any so far. Resin releasing at the superglue is mostly as the area was too smooth and too much glue was applied. I tend to roughen up the surface to be glued with the exacto or with a file and use as little glue as possible.

 

[anotherpainter]

1+2
that makes sense. However in some situations i want it to be thick and water will not help with that. I will search for the products you mentioned.

3. So is flour.
If you work in a bakery for 50 years you have a high chance of damaging your lungs.
If you bake at home here and there its not a problem. If it would be anywhere close to asbest it would be forbidden to sell in Europe.
So the question is where between asbset and flour is it?

4. The one i use works perfect. The question is more about: WHY does it work?
I don't think there is a difference in the papers. They are made to absorb fat and repel water and that is what they do. If you put water on the paper and wait you will notice that nothing of it will come out on the other site.

5. I can be that i overglue. Never thought about that. I will try to only lay down a thin layer in future.

Thanks, some good answers.

 

[Splurch]

3 - The issue is when you file resin and it turns into dust, just handling it isn't going to be an issue. Asbestos is so damaging because the particles are very small and very sharp and causes a number of problems with your lungs that won't show up for decades. If you use a mask and contain the dust in a plate or something then clean up after it won't be an issue. I've never seen a study on resin dust specifically so it's up to you how careful you want to be but it's better to play it safe since cleaning it is going to make very small and sharp particles and chances are it's going to be close to your face in order to see what you are doing.

5 - Just to add to Maxxx's statement, superglue works better the thinner it is. It forms very strong bonds with other materials but it is brittle itself, too much glue and that brittleness becomes a very weak point.

 

[anotherpainter]

Thanks splurch.

I have a new questions:

Army Painter Strongtone and Softtone wash:
I do like this washes but they smell like feces. Not kidding! They have an really really awefull smell!
Can paint become bad?

 

[Splurch]

Paint can go bad but it is rare. The most common ways paint goes bad is if the temperature causes it to freeze, at which point it will become clumpy or separate and be unmixable or if it loses too much moisture and cures/hardens inside the container.

As for Army Painter Quickshade, it isn't paint but rather a tinted varnish (it's a polyurethane I think?.) I've wanted to try it out for years but have yet to so I don't know if it's supposed to smell like that or not but I've never heard it described as smelling like that. It will smell differently from paint though as it is not latex based and uses other chemicals. If both washes smell the same chances are that's just how it smells, you might also be able to ask someone at the place you bought it from.

 

[ten ball]

1. If any parts turn out gloss give the mini a light dusting of Matt dull coat then carry on painting.
A VERY good painting gave me this tip.

 

[MAXXxxx]

they just smell like that because of chemical composition.

 

[Dragonsreach]

Army Painter Strongtone and Softtone wash:
I do like this washes but they smell like feces. Not kidding! They have an really really awefull smell!
Can paint become bad?

They shouldn't smell like that at all! Mine most certainly don't.
It sounds as if some contaminant (of a biological nature) has gotten in the mix somehow

 

[anotherpainter]

thx for the many answers.

To clarify: i heard in a video once someone mention that it dont smell good.
However im not talking about: I put my nose over it and it smells bad. Its more like: I open the bottle and the complete room smells awful!
I dont even remember where i bought it from but perhaps i should just rebuy them.

 

[Maenas]

Just to add a little info on point 3, a part from suffering health problems from inhalation of small particles, there is also a problem with some of older/cheaper? plastics containing PVC.
Vinyl chloride is known to cause health problems (asthma, variety of endocrine problems and cancer) and is listed by various health organizations as a carcinogen.
This was the reason behind the shifting of the water industry from PVC water bottles to PET bottles some (+15?) years ago.
Some expoy resins may also cause the same problems, mostly before mixing the materials, since once mixed they almost become non toxic.
So the general problem is not knowing which plastic is made every miniature, how many time you will be exposed to it's dust and how ventilated is the room/area you are in.
I wouldn't get paranoid though xD

 

[anotherpainter]

And i have a new one:

P3 paint. Why are they so clean when i see them on photos of other people?
If i open a bottle p3 i will get paint on the finger that flips it. Every single time!
So this finger will then "paint" any other bottle that i touch and open. As result all bottles look like a mess and i have to clean them very often.
Also paint sneaks into the outer ring and drys there what would make the bottle not airtight if if would not remove it from time to time.
I think this the the biggest fail design of p3.
So why im the only person with this problem? Do other people clean the bottle after every use? Do i do something stupid wrong while opening them?