Slottabase tags?
- Thread starter moonmin82
- Start date
freakinacage
Well-known member
I think I'd rather have a slotta but that said, I usually clip them off. Just gives you the option. As mentioned, it's easy enough to cut them off
Slottabase type tab is easily cut off with pincers and or dremel.
Broccoli bases PITA city.
Broccoli bases PITA city.
freakinacage
Well-known member
That. Terrifically annoying
moonmin82
New member
Lol, I have No idea what you guys are going on about! ;-)
me_in_japan
New member
some minis come with badly sculpted bases already attached. They look like theyre standing on broccolli 
QuietiManes
New member
I don't like to use slotted bases, because it's a pain to fill in the hole, but in all honesty, it's no more trouble than having to pin the miniature, as others have said, it's probably best to include a tag under the feet. But my own personal preference would be nothing attached to the miniature first, slotta second, fully integrated base attached to the feet (broccoli base) last, last by a large margin.
Hobby centres that sell match packs for "crafting" are your friend, the matches 99% of the time will fill the gap with minor trimming of length.
(Last time i think I got 3 bases out of one match)
QuietiManes
New member
Hrm...that's a new one for me. So after you fill the match in there, is the remaining gap small enough that you don't need to putty it? Being soft I'd imagine you could compress it into the exact space required. I'll have to look into it the next time I've got a slottabase on the go.
freakinacage
Well-known member
Hmm had forgotten that one. Awesome tip
cyberakuma
New member
Slotta tabs all the way as has been said already they are easier to remove than sculpted bases or even just those old fashioned flat round stand moulded to the mini and not just because those unfamiliar with pinning can still work with them easy enough but just in my experience the more delicate the miniature (like female or skeletal legs for instance) that come without a tab tend to be weaker and more prone to breakages than those with the tabs. It could just be my experience here i can't explain the reason why i can only assume it has something to do with them being bashed around during shipping even in a blister with a load of foam and snapped ankles or arms are a pain to repair when they are delicate and it's only those ones that really get effected
I completely agree about the delicateness of some mini's with slottabase tabs.
Being totally honest RACKHAM were notorious for this issue and I've picked up a "bargain bin"(*) set of original Confrontation figures of which more than half have damaged ankles. Despite that I still do like me my Rackhams.
(* BRAGGING RIGHTS: The 1000th figure Dirz Clone Abbreration plus some random Dirz figure, turned out to be 10 Dirz figures and a perfect brand new complete Clone for £25.00. All in a shops clearance bin.)
Being totally honest RACKHAM were notorious for this issue and I've picked up a "bargain bin"(*) set of original Confrontation figures of which more than half have damaged ankles. Despite that I still do like me my Rackhams.
(* BRAGGING RIGHTS: The 1000th figure Dirz Clone Abbreration plus some random Dirz figure, turned out to be 10 Dirz figures and a perfect brand new complete Clone for £25.00. All in a shops clearance bin.)
moonmin82
New member
Thanks for your thoughts so far guys.
You'll have to forgive my inexperience in this matter, but would you say that the positioning of the tag hole is consistent with GW slottabases troughout the industry? Thought it'd be a shame to base my slottabase tag position on a GW base only to find most peeps are using bases from another manufacturer and getting crap results!
You'll have to forgive my inexperience in this matter, but would you say that the positioning of the tag hole is consistent with GW slottabases troughout the industry? Thought it'd be a shame to base my slottabase tag position on a GW base only to find most peeps are using bases from another manufacturer and getting crap results!
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I'm using the round edged PP style bases for virtually everything now and find that its not the position but the size that matters.
GW, PP, Malifaux and Hasslefree bases are consistent in the slot size, its the independant makers I find are sometimes less "accurate" about the slot size/width.
Alll in all if you are going to use slot style tabs on the base / feet of the mini I'd suggest that its good policy to ensure that the tab isn't too long or too thick for the "industry standards" of the big boys.
Bloodhowl
Active member
But the slot tab size is determined by the mold maker, yes? The tab was originally a part of the gate for the casting material to enter into the mold cavity using the spin casting method. But now that it has been established as a standard for attaching the figure to the piece, the tabs are now included in injection molding as well, but not really necesarry to the sculpting of the figure?
Bloodhowl Interesting point, is it down to the caster/mouldmaker?
A number of GW fibures I've had, have been singularly thicker in the tab due to addition lettering specifically those with names on.
A number of GW fibures I've had, have been singularly thicker in the tab due to addition lettering specifically those with names on.
