Starter - trying anything and everything

[Ddraig Gwaed]

Hi All

I am just a trainee brush-licker and do not play the game, so I have been throwing paint at anything and everything. Currently I am trying out on a Mawloc and Neron Canoptek Wraiths. I am deriving a lot of inspiration from some of the masterpieces on CMON.

Attached are some WIPs - C&C welcome

 

[Webmonkey]

looking good so far. I'd say the transition between light blue and dark blue is too stark. Take your dark blue, thin the crap out of it, and "glaze" a few layers over each scale,.. it should help soften the transition some.

 

[Dragonsreach]

I'm going to agree with Webmonkey, I'd also suggest trying to find close colour matches between the blues or mixing small amounts of the lighter blue into your base to decrease the 'Starkness' of colour change (transition) between the lighter and darker blues.

 

[Limara]

Blending skills, or transitions are a very big step step for improving your work. That goes for anyone! I work on my transitions every day and they can still be improved. So keep on playing with that!

Also, when you prepare a mini, before you paint it, there are some basic steps that really improve the look of the mini. One of the most important steps is getting rid of all of the mold lines. Those are the lines that the casts leave, when the mini is being poured into it's shape. Use some sandpaper or dremel to get rid of them.

If you're unsure of how to continue, there are amazing tutorials out there. Use your google-fuh and enjoy them on youtube!

 

[mjs101]

I think your first model could benefit from a pin wash. Google it; it is technique used by 1/35th scale armor painters. The idea is to use very thin washes that wick into recesses via capillary action, creating darker lines in recessed areas.

This is my recipe for a pin wash; there are may other ways, including oil-based, but I like my because it doesn't use oil and I get decent results.

I first gloss-coat the model. This helps prevent the pin wash from staining flat surfaces.

Next, I mix 1ml Pledge floor polish (formerly Future floor polish) to 4 ml water (this is common mix called magic mix for washes). Add 1-2 drops black or sepia Daler Rowney Acrylic Artist ink.

Now, carefully wash the model. The mix should wick into corners, recesses well. Use a spare clean moistened brush to remove excess from surfaces.


I like the option of mixing my own shades for this. I painted two dozen 15mm british tanks for WWII a fairly pale sand/creamy yellow, and this really helped make the contrast jump.

 

[Ddraig Gwaed]

Hi there - thanks so much for the pointers - will keep you updated on progress as it goes. Life (for life read "work")n is going to get in the way of progress for the next week or so.

 

[Jamie Stokes]

It's good to see you experimenting and asking for feedback, 2 key steps in learning!

I'd invest in a colour wheel (usually less than a bottle of paint) as it will help take the guess work out of colours that work together and colours that clash.

Thinning the paint and glazing and pin washes, all tools of the trade.

And to take a step back, sometimes it's easier to build and paint in sub assemblies, so you can get your brush into some spots that cant be reached once a limb (or three!!) has been attached.

You've taken some right steps, please continue to post your work!!

Cheers

Jamie