Tank Weathering

Dakwan

New member
I\'ve salvaged an old land raider crusader that was smashed into about 15 bits and with some luck, greenstuff and swearing i\'ve managed to get it looking pretty decent but was hoping to get a bit of advice

I\'ve always been a fan of the \'fresh off the assembly line\' look for tanks just because i like the neat crisp appearance but i thought i\'d give weathering ago. I followed the guide in the tutorial section but am a bit less than satisfied with the results. I doesn\'t look terrible but i think it looked better before i improved it.

i think i could have made the damage look better (or good period :p ) if had done a bit of modeling before hand but didn\'t plan on it when i started but hindsight is 20/20 so thats that.

here\'s a pic at www.dakwan.ca/40k/lr.jpg
 

In Chigh P.I.

New member
What sort of weathering are you looking to achieve? Just a bit dirty?

If its only \'fresh off the assembly line\' as you say then all you need to do is put a little bit of mud around the areas where it would appear naturally, around the rear mostly, where dirt would be \'thrown back up near the rear of the track area
 

Dakwan

New member
fresh off the assembly line is the look i normally go for .. but i mean this time i\'m trying to make it a bit grungy, if you look at the picture i listed at the bottom of my original post thats about the \'level\' of dirtiness i\'m looking for but i\'m just not quite satisfied with the look of it
 

Donga

Active member
MIG- Weathering powders

They even do a \'tank track\' mix...

There\'s links up in the \'sticky thread.\'
 

Donga

Active member
From the sticky thread:

http://www.missing-lynx.com/rare_world/rw05.htm

They are VERY easy to use!
 

Einion

New member
Originally posted by Dakwan
i think i could have made the damage look better (or good period :p ) if had done a bit of modeling before hand but didn\'t plan on it when i started but hindsight is 20/20 so thats that.
For what you\'re looking to do that\'s not necessary - most vehicle modellers seek to represent scratches and chips using paint only.

For mud you can easily go to something three-dimensional after the basic painting is already done by stippling on a muddy paste* with an old brush and then painting it appropriately.

*Plaster/patching compound, paint and a bit of PVA (with or without added fine sand & static grass).
Originally posted by Dakwan
this time i\'m trying to make it a bit grungy... thats about the \'level\' of dirtiness i\'m looking for but i\'m just not quite satisfied with the look of it
Apart from practice to give a feel for doing dirt believably you need to have worked in more layers for the dust and mud splatters. I\'d have used a duller colour first off and done some washes, a couple of mist coats through the airbrush for fine settled dust and then some spattering to represent splattered mud. Remember mudding up can often use more than one colour with any fresh, wetter stuff done with a darker and browner mix.

Shot damage/gouges/scratches are best kept small if they\'re represented by painting only. You need to paint a very fine dark line above whatever colour you use to represent the bare metal, with a corresponding light highlight underneath (the lit edge of the chipped paint). What you currently have is dark above and below and to all sides, as well as that they\'re a bit big - if you do substantial damage like that it\'s best to have some of it represented by a gouge into the plate. Have a look at this very nice sentinel that was posted recently and you\'ll see what I mean (note: the chipping on this is too uniform and doesn\'t take into account the wear the vehicle is likely to have encountered, but the effect is very nicely done).

If you want to do rust stains from the metal exposed by a chip or shot I would strongly recommend finding and working from references, rather than trying to do it from your head as this tends to lead to \'twee\' results. Have a look at this thread from planetFigure for the photos of rusting steel I posted: Rust. Notice how intricate and irregular things are, far less neat than it\'s usually painted in the hobby. Don\'t be afraid to take your own reference photos!

More general comments on painting ordnance in this recent thread:
http://www.coolminiornot.com/forums/viewthread.php?tid=33177

Incidentally your decal looks like it has silvered badly - applying to a gloss surface takes care of most of that but decal solutions, e.g. Solvaset, would help too. A simple layer of Future/Klear can work well, but you do then have to matt the entire vehicle back down with a reliable matt finish.

Einion
 

airhead

Coffin Dodger / Keymaster
How deep into the fluff? Do they have iron base metals in their tanks? If not, no rust. Do they use grease at the joints? Does their paint wear off at wear points?

That large hatch in your pic should have wear at the hinge point: chipped paint as well as grease streaks.

The hand holds should have wear where hands and boots have worn the top of the paint off. The tops of those steps would be almost black from accumulated hand and boot grime and the edges would be bare metal. Or they would be covered in what ever terrain you are on - mud from the boots and road/off road dust.

Why is the logo rusting? Very little wear there, but the white would quickly fade.

Rivets are natural catch points for dirt & grime. As well as that recessed plate where the logo is.

Those road wheel axels poking throu the armor (bad design by the way) will quickly cake up with dirt/mud/grease to the point you need a chisel to get it out.

Hope that helps.
 
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