Testors Cement.

Cesar

New member
Hello,

Got a little question here, well 2 actually.

1. I\'m glueing flock onto bases here,, and when applying my testors plastic cement glue, some of my paint smears, and the paint devides down to the black base. The paint washes away with a brush. How can i evenly apply the glue?


2. I\'m not sure where i had gotten this nice glue, once apon a time. I was a clear drying cement, very thin, and at the bottom fo the cap there was an attached brush for application. Anyone knwo about this? Comes in a clear couple inch tall bottle, with a blue label. Where can i get some more?

Thanks.
 

minimaker

New member
Hi,

I wouldn\'t use plastic glues for glueing down flock. These glues contain solvent which will affect paint. I\'d try a thicker matt varnish (as a glue, yes) instead.

As to question 2, that\'s plastic glue too I assume. those are often sold in bottles. A blue lable? Revell perhaps? Try scale modelling stores.

Bye, Ming-Hua
 

Cesar

New member
Alright, I\'m going to try to get my hands on some varnish here.

I\'ve never been too much of a baser. :wow:

Thanks guyes

Cesar.
 
What you want is acrylic Matt medium to apply ground work. Not sure if it is the same thing as varnish or not but Ive used matt medium for years to apply flock and static grass.

The plastic cement with the brush under the cap is testors liquid cement. Any good hobby shop should have it. Except when you get it yank that cheap paint brush oyt and use a cheaper, but better quality brush to apply it. I use that cement for all my model building and figure assembly. But dont use it to try t glue flock. If your trying to glue two pieces together that have paint on them, scrape off the paint in the areas that touch.
 

Sand Rat

New member
Thats cause in my experience the testors model cement is Methyl Ethyl Ketone - used to mate plastics, and to clean paint from metal - or metal from paint - it is some serious evil shyte - we used it to clean stainless steel at work.
 

airhead

Coffin Dodger / Keymaster
Originally posted by steelcult
... Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK)...it is some serious evil shyte...
MEK has some serious bad stuff associated with it. It can actually penetrate the skin barrier and take other stuff with it (see contact poison and \'patch\' type drugs). Plus, it is extreemely flamable.
 

dauber22

New member
Originally posted by airhead
Originally posted by steelcult
... Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK)...it is some serious evil shyte...
MEK has some serious bad stuff associated with it. It can actually penetrate the skin barrier and take other stuff with it (see contact poison and \'patch\' type drugs). Plus, it is extremely flamable.

[nods head] One of the reasons I worry more about having worked in the plastics industry for 5 years than about the fact that I\'ve smoked for 30+ years :( Used as a catalyst or \"hardener\" for fiberglass resins and body putty - both of which I used regularly and then washed up with concenrated acetone. Ahhh, those were the days :(:eek::(
 

Ratcals

New member
Originally posted by steelcult
Thats cause in my experience the testors model cement is Methyl Ethyl Ketone - used to mate plastics, and to clean paint from metal - or metal from paint - it is some serious evil shyte - we used it to clean stainless steel at work.


Ahh yes, I remember the days of MEK. You could take concrete off sidewalk with that stuff. We\'re not allowed to use it at work anymore.
 

Cesar

New member
Thanks for the tips, and warning guyes.

I\'m going to pick up some acrylic Matt medium, next time my student salary kicks in. ???

Hopefully soon i\'ll land a job, and keep my distance from products containing Methyl Ethyl Ketone. :wow:

Othewise, i would have gone out, and pruchased with limited funding, the wrong glue for the job.
 

hakoMike

Active member
thicker matt varnish (as a glue, yes) instead.
Hey, I learned something new today!
I\'ve tried superglue and watered down (or not watered down) PVA, and have not like the results. Pieces kept falling off, especially when trying to paint on them. I tried brushing more glue onto basing, but (you guessed it) the basing kept coming off on the brush.

...and ethyl methyl ketone? Ohhhh, you mean 2-butanone! (Sorry... took an organic chem class a few years ago and got IUPAC naming crammed into my skull. :cool: )
 

Cesar

New member
Thanks gain for all the advice. I\'ve run into the product \"well bond\", and am considering buying a can tommorow.

It\'s probably a super glue, it\'s relatively uin-expensive, a big can for $10,, it dries clear, doesnt take off paint, and is avalaible to me.

Anyone have expereience with this product? I do have Citadel super glue for doing metals, and testors for platics.
Anything i should know?
Less costly then acrylic matt medium or PVA? I must work on a buget right now. I\'m going out to Canadian Tire tommorow.
 

airhead

Coffin Dodger / Keymaster
Can? probably not CA (super) glue.

PVA is the white school glue (elmers) or better yellow carpenter glue. VERY CHEAP, but gotta wait on it to dry.

Look for Zap-a-Gap or Zap for most of my gluing needs. Zap is straight thin super glue (CA) Put 2 well fitting pieces together, put a drop of zap on the joint, it wicks into the joint and sets in seconds. Zap-a-Gap is a thicker version, used for joints that are not perfect (like most mini\'s) put a drop on one side, mate the pieces and wait about 30 seconds.

Canadian Tire ???

Acrylic Matt Medium is like the sticky stuff in paint, without pigment. Generally comes in cans (4 ozs up to gallons) Look for makers of artist\'s acrylic paint brands - usually on the end/bottom of the racks of paints (Golden, Liqutex, etc.)

@HaloMike, you can still buy quart cans of MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) in most hardware stores around here. Never seen the other name.
 
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