<p>As in subj. Small tutorial on textured rust. Comments on this one is really appreciated</p> <p> </p> <table border="1" align="left"> <tr> <td><img height="380" width="355" border="0" alt="" src="http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b383/chinenovy/Rust_tutorial_1.jpg" /></td> <td valign="top"><img height="390" width="321" border="0" align="right" alt="" src="http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b383/chinenovy/ForBlog.jpg" /> I am using an axe hand of the Exalted hero games day 2009 model to demonstrate my way of texturing and painting rust. My conversion of this model is on the right. I am painting this model as a Nurgle hero therefore it is not meant to look pretty As usually I am priming everything white using GW White primer. I am not sure whether this step is really necessary since the stuff I am using to create texture is actually a primer. </td> </tr> <tr> <td><img height="380" width="342" border="0" alt="" src="http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b383/chinenovy/Rust_tutorial_3.jpg" /></td> <td valign="top">For texturing I am using Mr Surfacer 500 modeling fluid, made by Gunze Sanyo. This product could be used to fill up minor imperfections on the surface of the model or to create textures. <br /> After priming, I applied a layer of Mr Surfacer – from now on you have to do things fast – the surfacer dries slower then the regular primer but it dries fast enough. Then I took a drybrush brush and using “pecking” motion roughed up the surface. This alone creates pretty interesting texture.<img height="249" width="351" border="0" align="right" alt="" src="http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b383/chinenovy/chest-highmagnification.jpg" /> Then I noticed in couple of places that I have small bubbles that seemed dried from the surface. To test this I pocked them with a paper clip and Oh Horror! turned out that they were not completely dried inside. This mistake however created beautiful pitted structure (look at the chest plate for example) that I intentionally reproduced in several other places. <br /> <br /> Three things about this stage 1) Do not be afraid to dislodges some of the original primer – you will be re-priming it again. I actually cleaned up some of the surfacer away from around the cutting edge 2) Pick the worst and the most worn down brush you own –Surfacer is an enamel and as such it tends to screw up brushes, especially if you don’t have some serious organic brush cleaners at home (unless you paint with oil or enamel most likely you don’t), 3) Instead of brush you can use sponge, paper-towel or a cotton swab. All will produce different textures. Watch for fingers though – nobody cares to see you fingerprints on a model</td> </tr> <tr> <td><img height="380" width="305" border="0" alt="" src="http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b383/chinenovy/Rust_tutorial_5.jpg" /></td> <td valign="top">After applying and messing up the surfacer I re-primed model again. Now it is actually ready for painting. You can over Mr Surfacer directly if you want but during texturing I lost some original primer layer so I figured I re-prime it to on the safe side</td> </tr> <tr> <td><img height="380" width="305" border="0" alt="" src="http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b383/chinenovy/Rust_tutorial_6.jpg" /></td> <td valign="top"><img height="380" width="276" border="0" align="right" alt="" src="http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b383/chinenovy/Rust_tutorial_8.jpg" />.Then, I applied a layer of very dilute (1:5) boltgun metal (GW) What you see here is taken after the first layer. As you can see white under the layer of metal is very apparent. I realized that some texturing around the blade is out of place. I removed it with sharp needle and gave it another coat with diluted boltgun metal (right)</td> </tr> <tr> <td><img height="380" width="308" border="0" alt="" src="http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b383/chinenovy/Rust_tutorial_7.jpg" /></td> <td valign="top">First shading. 1:1 mix of VMC Black:Hawk Turquoise (any flat black will do, I just happened to have this one)diluted a lot, probably 1:5, 1:8 - what you see here is a single layer of this wash. I often use this mix to make guiding washes (Washes whose purpose is to "show" where shades will eventually go) and for the fist shading. After the first layer dried I applied the second layer around bolts/rivets and in between gauntlet armor plates.</td> </tr> <tr> <td><img height="380" width="276" border="0" alt="" src="http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b383/chinenovy/Rust_tutorial_9.jpg" /></td> <td valign="top"><img height="380" width="208" border="0" align="right" alt="" src="http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b383/chinenovy/Legwithcolors.jpg" /> Now is time to paint rust. After this it is painting a la George Seurat (see <a href="http://hosoft.com/vic/fine_arts/Georges_Seurat_Sunday_afternoon_on_la_grande_jatte_1884.jpg">here</a> for an example) <br /> <br /> For basic rust I use 5 colors 1) MIG pigment Old Rust 2)Mig pigment Standard rust 3) Orange 4) bubonic brown and very sparingly 5) catachan green In addition to this you can add anything from red or yellow range to brighten it up or anything from very dark blue range to shade some areas. I am using MIG pigments here is a water diluted paint rather then dry powder often use for different weathering. I am again diluting it to an almost transparent state and apply layers until I achieve desired density. I am sure you can replace both MIG pigment with regular brown paints but you have to experiment with tones. I would start with GW Scorched brown and GW bestial brown. IF they are too dark try to add some orange until you get a brighter brown. Here is an axe after applying 2-3 layers of Old Rust. I use very tip of the brush to apply small dots with increasing density toward Axe handle (I want my old rust to be there) and recesses on the gauntlet armor</td> </tr> <tr> <td><img height="380" width="273" border="0" alt="" src="http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b383/chinenovy/Rust_tutorial_10.jpg" /></td> <td valign="top"><img height="380" width="283" border="0" align="right" alt="" src="http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b383/chinenovy/Rust_tutorial_11.jpg" /> Then I painted some standard rust as described above closer toward the edge of the axe Looking at this weapon closer I figured that it a bit too regular, so I grabbed my trusty needle and made a lot of streaks perpendicular to the cutting edge (right). Yeah indeed, no painting here just your random wanton destruction. </td> </tr> <tr> <td><img height="380" width="287" border="0" alt="" src="http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b383/chinenovy/Rust_tutorial_12.jpg" /></td> <td><img height="380" width="272" border="0" align="right" alt="" src="http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b383/chinenovy/Rust_tutorial_13.jpg" /> and painted more standard rust, perhaps a bit to much so the whole coverage became a bit too uniform. To break the uniformity and increase the contrast I added bubonic brown (GW) here and there in somewhat random fashion. However, while doing it randomly try try to be consistent. Bubonic brown is brighter than Standard rust thus signifying areas of active corrosion. Do not add it to areas that already corroded to oblivion or undamaged areas for it will look out of place there.</td> </tr> <tr> <td><img height="380" width="318" border="0" alt="" src="http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b383/chinenovy/Rust_tutorial_14.jpg" /></td> <td valign="top">Now at this point everything it kinda too bright. To break down the colors and add some contrast I added some shadows using Reaper Master Blue Liner. Liners is an interesting type of paints manufactured by the Reaper. They have a consistency of a glaze with relatively low pigment content. Due to the amount of binder they take dilution quite well and due to low pigment content are very useful for shadowing. I personally use blue and gray liners alot. Here I used it to add shadows to the axe and smooth over transitions from Bubonic Brown to rust colors</td> </tr> <tr> <td><img height="380" width="313" border="0" alt="" src="http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b383/chinenovy/Rust_tutorial_15.jpg" /></td> <td><img height="380" width="292" border="0" align="right" alt="" src="http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b383/chinenovy/Rust_tutorial_16.jpg" /> To increase contrast I highlighted bubonic brown with the Reaper master Fire Orange (could be replaced by any other bright orange) to represent the rustiest parts of them all and the open parts of the cutting edge were carefully highlighted with Mithril Silver (GW). Now, while it is not mentioned in the text periodically when it was neccessary I was smoothing out transitions between color layers. Changes like this are difficult to photograph and each on its own is too minor to be easily noticeable, however in combination they create much neater appearence(if this word apply to a combat weapon in a such a sorry state 
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