TheLost WIP

Terrafirma

New member
Nice looking base Lost. If you want the ruins to look old and forgotten ,fill the gaps with builders putty and clean smooth with a wet rag ,then when dry mix some sand with PVA and emulate grass growing over the stones ,if you use all rubble it will look more like a battle zone than a forgotten temple.Maybe a couple of tree roots growing over the busted stonework over to the tree.
love your work champ
 

TheLost

New member
Nice looking base Lost. If you want the ruins to look old and forgotten ,fill the gaps with builders putty and clean smooth with a wet rag ,then when dry mix some sand with PVA and emulate grass growing over the stones ,if you use all rubble it will look more like a battle zone than a forgotten temple.Maybe a couple of tree roots growing over the busted stonework over to the tree.
love your work champ

Great idea! I will be adding some roots too.. I didn't think to add some growing over the tiles.. that should make it look a little more interesting. Thanks!
 

TheLost

New member
Haven't been able to do much in the last week or so... I'm just now finishing a 64 hour work week... 36 hour days SUCK! But oh well, I'm glad I'm working... I should have some updates this weekend.
 

Terrafirma

New member
You guys must work hard over there ,cause even though I do try hard I can still only fit 24 hours into a day .Damn.....
 

TheLost

New member
You guys must work hard over there ,cause even though I do try hard I can still only fit 24 hours into a day .Damn.....


Yea...basically I worked 3 8 hour shifts in a row, plus commute times, and it adds up to about 36 hours of staying awake... my brain is kinda confused just writing this at the moment lol. Luckily, it's not all the time.
 

TheLost

New member
Finally had some time to myself to finish most of the base work on my model. Here's what I've done so far:

First, I pinned the cork base to the plinth

View attachment 42699 View attachment 42700

Then I finished coating the vine around the column by brushing on multiple layers of Molding Paste by Golden Artist Colors.

View attachment 42701

Then I added the dirt, rocks, roots, skull, etc. Most of the dirt is just regular dirt from my yard. I think it fit better to the scale of the model than model ballast. Roots are from weeds I pulled from the ground.

View attachment 42702 View attachment 42703 View attachment 42704

After most of the base work dried, I positioned the model to see where I'd want to pin it. I can't decide if I should have the model centered and close to the column, or off center and a little further from the column.

Model centered

View attachment 42705

Model off center

View attachment 42706

Suggestions/opinions on placement would be appreciated. I'm leaning more towards having the model centered. Thanks for looking and any feedback!
 

Quantum Man

New member
centered looks better to me there's a nice line running from the tip of the cloak through the top of his head to the tip of the column
 

TheLost

New member
Well, it's been over 3 weeks since I posted anything, but it has been a somewhat productive 3 weeks. I recently decided to enter ReaperCon next October, so I started one of my entries for the competition. I recently bought three grot bombs from ebay (made by Forge World) that I thought would be good as practice models for weathering and painting metal. But then I started to think of ideas for the grot bombs, and came up with, in my opinion, a funny diorama depicting the bombs being launched from the grounds as rockets.

Of course, the idea was simple at first, but then I researched ork terrain and ork machines, and it turned into a ridiculously complicated diorama. The diorama is going to be made on an 8inx10in board, consisting of a rocket fuel tank, small mech shop, launch area, and a comms building. So far, this diorama is being built out of a Warhammer 40k ork mek gun, deff dread bits, nob bits, trukk bits, mega nobz bits, ork bommer bits, ork boyz bits, some bits from Tamiya Military model kits, and all sorts of Imperial Guard bits, not to mention all the scratch building I'll have to do. But to me, this is what the hobby is all about; taking all kinds of kits and making your own thing. Let the FUN BEGIN!!

At this point I'd like to send 3T-Studios a shout out for posting some very motivational and inspirational pictures of Ork terrain. Your work has been very influential on my project, and I have learned a lot on how to make ork structures because of your work.


So thus far, I've started to make the rocket fuel tank. Here is what the support structure looks like; it will be covered with "scrap" metal, ie styrene sheets (click image to magnify).

View attachment 43919

After I figured out the structure, I started working on the fins. Here is what the process looks like.

FIN #1
Pic #1 Start off with a piece of styrene cut in the shape of a fin
Pic #2 Add randomly cut pieces of styrene
Pic #3 and #4 Add battle damage, scratches, ork embellishments, and nuts, rivets, bolts, etc

#1 View attachment 43920 #2View attachment 43921 #3View attachment 43922 #4View attachment 43923

FIN #2
Same process as FIN #1

View attachment 43924 View attachment 43925

FIN #3

I wanted to make this fin a little different, so I decided to use one of the support legs from the ork mek gun (I still have some work to do on this one)

View attachment 43926 And the fin orkified...>View attachment 43927 View attachment 43928

I also decided to attach a gas pipe from the ground to the fuel tank, along with a control panel that is going to act as the pump for the tank (sort of like a gas station pump).

Pic #1-3 Gas pipe structure and orkification (pipes are from plastruct)

#1 View attachment 43929 #2 View attachment 43930 #3 View attachment 43932

Pic #4 is the control panel, made from mek gun parts (WIP)

#4View attachment 43933

Well, with the way my work schedule is at the moment, that's all I can post at the moment for this project.

By the way, If anyone knows about Mig Jimenez or AK Interactive weathering enamel products, and if they are compatible with acrylic paints (Vallejo, Reaper Master Series, Scale 75) please let me know. I want to paint the ork structures using weathering techniques, and these products seem like they would help me get a very realistic look.

Thanks for looking, I look forward to reading your feedback!
 
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ArchArad

New member
Wow - I am in awe of your ideas. Looking forward to seeing how this comes together.

Afraid I can't be of help with the weathering - I've only tried it once and used the Tamiya weathering master products. The products work well on acrylics (I paint with GW), but I don't know if they're comparable with what you're looking at.
 

TheLost

New member
I did some work on the Ork Mech that's launching the grot rockets. The model was an OOP model I found on ebay that will fit my diorama perfectly. I won't be using either of the arms the model came with, but I did want his power ax in the scene. So I cut the ork's hand off the ax and proceeded with my little conversion.

Pic #1 - The ax without the ork hand or original handle
Pic #2 - The ax before I glue in the new handle (made with plastruct hex rod)
Pic #3 - The ork mek's ax completed

#1 View attachment 43934 #2View attachment 43935 #3View attachment 43936

Feedback and questions always welcome!
 

TheLost

New member
Wow - I am in awe of your ideas. Looking forward to seeing how this comes together.

Afraid I can't be of help with the weathering - I've only tried it once and used the Tamiya weathering master products. The products work well on acrylics (I paint with GW), but I don't know if they're comparable with what you're looking at.

Thanks! It will be a slow process (I'm a slow builder and an even slower painter >_<), but I'll get there.
 

TheLost

New member
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SaintToad

New member
Wow, that is one claptrap-looking contraption. Super orcish. It looks like it will be a blast to paint and weather!
 
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