i went to the store and asked the guy which paints are better to undercoat with vallejo black, or citadel chaos black. he goes vallejo are thinner and citadel are thicker, most people use citadels so i would go with citadel. How strange i thought the thinner they are the better. If it is too thick it ruins the detail, so i was thinking i should get vallejo not citadel, he told me the exact opposite, i do not get it.
Thinner Paints
- Thread starter Knin
- Start date
mickc22
Granddad!
I guess he was thinking more from a \"coverage\" point of view rather than a \"will I still see the detail\" one, (or maybe a monetary one, or is that too cynical)
Sadly most people don\'t realise that GW paints were never designed to be used straight from the pot, they are supposed to be thinned a little. That\'s why they are a bit thicker than say, Vallejo MC
Sadly most people don\'t realise that GW paints were never designed to be used straight from the pot, they are supposed to be thinned a little. That\'s why they are a bit thicker than say, Vallejo MC
Yet I would say my vallejo\'s are thicker than my GW\'s. I don\'t think you would see much difference in using either.
The best paints for undercoating are GW sprays, however I always find you need to touch up and for that I use choas black mixed with black ink, this makes it thin enough to cover without obscuring details, but maintains the pigmentation.
The best paints for undercoating are GW sprays, however I always find you need to touch up and for that I use choas black mixed with black ink, this makes it thin enough to cover without obscuring details, but maintains the pigmentation.
mickc22
Granddad!
I wouldn\'t exclude other spray undercoats Trev, you can use automotive primers on metal minis OK, I\'ve used red and and grey primers with some excellent results (and they are usually cheaper)
I totally agree with using the inks to thin your paints, I had a phase of only using inks to thin with for a while when I was working at GW
DrEvilmonki
Active member
If I am priming a single figure I will use a 50/50 mix of chaos black and water. This does take two or three applications to get it solid. I only use spray when doing a unit or similar.
Try Glass & Tile medium
I find that just acrylic paint never sticks, which is why primers are used in the first place. In the winter, I use the Folk Art Glass & Tile Medium (a clear primer), thinned with water and drop of ink for contrast. I don\'t like spray paint in the house, and it is too cold in the winter to go out and do it. Spraying is faster when you have several figures to prime, but the G&T works great for that one mini you just gotta paint now.
Cheers,
Jack
I find that just acrylic paint never sticks, which is why primers are used in the first place. In the winter, I use the Folk Art Glass & Tile Medium (a clear primer), thinned with water and drop of ink for contrast. I don\'t like spray paint in the house, and it is too cold in the winter to go out and do it. Spraying is faster when you have several figures to prime, but the G&T works great for that one mini you just gotta paint now.
Cheers,
Jack
mickc22
Granddad!
Hi Jack
yeah folks, primers are formulated differently, they prime the surface (that\'s why they are called primers) and provide a key for your colors to adhere too
IMHO
In the long run a spray undercoat is cheaper, really. In terms of how many minis you\'ll get out of it & also the time per mini to undercoat
(yes I am trying to make freak by the end of the day
)
yeah folks, primers are formulated differently, they prime the surface (that\'s why they are called primers) and provide a key for your colors to adhere too
IMHO
In the long run a spray undercoat is cheaper, really. In terms of how many minis you\'ll get out of it & also the time per mini to undercoat
(yes I am trying to make freak by the end of the day
)
Einion
New member
It doesn\'t matter how thick or thin a given brand is really, you learn to paint at a given consistency for a given effect and if that requires thinning then you do it (paint that\'s too thin is another story but that\'s not a common problem so we can ignore it for the time being).
My paints are mostly around the thickness of toothpaste yet for subtle layering I\'m painting with pretty much the same consistency as most of the rest of us - so, buy thick or thin and dilute if necessary.
Einion
My paints are mostly around the thickness of toothpaste yet for subtle layering I\'m painting with pretty much the same consistency as most of the rest of us - so, buy thick or thin and dilute if necessary.
Einion
I used to use Citadl paints, and when I was talking about getting back into painting I picked some up, and then my wife went and bought me one of the Vallejo game color sets,
Vallejo rocks, much thinner, and very very good coverage, I picked up or of the dry retardent, and if its covered, the paint can stay wet over a weeked, ( found out when my thumb went into it,)
Hope that helps,
They also have a crackle paint that I have been considering on using for urban large bases, as well as a few others, ( ice, and possibly high clay dry flatlands)
http://www.ttfxmedia.com/vallejo/cgi-bin/_artdeco.asp?p1=ing&p2=artedecotecnicas
I know is very off subject,
sorry :-(
Vallejo rocks, much thinner, and very very good coverage, I picked up or of the dry retardent, and if its covered, the paint can stay wet over a weeked, ( found out when my thumb went into it,)
Hope that helps,
They also have a crackle paint that I have been considering on using for urban large bases, as well as a few others, ( ice, and possibly high clay dry flatlands)
http://www.ttfxmedia.com/vallejo/cgi-bin/_artdeco.asp?p1=ing&p2=artedecotecnicas
I know is very off subject,
sorry :-(
