Tollens Amsterdam 155 matt varnish and airbrush interaction question

[Hasdrubal]

In my quest for better and cheaper hobby supplies, I've purchased a bottle of Tollens Amsterdam 155 matt varnish on the recommandation of the art store' clerk. This tuff is thinned with turpentine, and tools need to be cleaned with turpentine after use too. Since I'm planning to spray it through my airbrush as a final protective coat for my models, I'd have to spray turpentine as well to clean it afterwards.

I'm worried the turpentine could have an adverse condition on the airbrush, as it's not chrome-plated. I've not been able to find any information on the Harder & Steinbeck website, would you have any advice on whether or not it's safe to spray turpentine?

Thanks guys!

 

[Aircav]

I would say it's fine. Turps is not a particularly aggressive sovent compared with some that are commonly used with airbrushes (e.g. celluose/laquer thinners). It won't attack the metal, and any soft seals (in an airbrush) should be resistant to most solvents. If you want to make sure, you might shoot it through with water after the cleaning process (and after the turps has had a chance to evaporate).

-AC-

 

[Einion]

There shouldn't normally be any ill-effects to the AB from spraying with turps, although there's a small chance that it could attack washers or gaskets.

If you'll be spraying with turps do take adequate steps re. ventilation, or wear a solvent-rated respirator. It's not overtly toxic, but it isn't something you want to breathe in in any quantity.

Einion

 

[airhead]

Remember, you are atomizing a flammable liquid. This is somewhat explosive in nature in concentration. Either spray into a trash can full of newspaper/paper towels or preferably outdoors.

Do not use a cheap spraybooth for this. The fans are not solvent/explosion rated.

 

[Hasdrubal]

Thanks for the advice guys. I've started by handbrushing al the weapons yesterday, the varnish is really smelly. However, the finish on an initial gloss varnish is fantastic! I'll definitely spray the turpentine into an airbrush cleaner pot! Still wondering whether turpentine and essential oil of petroleum should work the same to clean, though, since I had the latter, I didn't bother getting the former. Should I?

 

[airhead]

I'd personally use something a bit faster to clean. Mineral spirits, acetone, MEK. But do it in a safe place when you flush the gun.

Then I'd disassemble and give the needle a good wipe, q-tip out the cup and flush the nozzle well.

Dip the needle in vegetable oil and reassemble.

***
I lost a gun thinking all I had to do was spray some solvent through it after I used it. Automotive urethane clear, set up like superglue in the gun. Had to chisel it out with a pick and replace a lot of small expensive parts.

 

[Hasdrubal]

Thanks again for the advice. I always spend 15-20 minutes cleaning thorougly the airbrush after use, taking out the needle (which I store separately), cleaning the nozzle, cup, etc with thinners and rincing them in water after. A bit tedious, but keeps the gun in good condition!

 

[Hasdrubal]

Quick update: the varnish clogged the airbrush to death

After a complete disassembly and a night-long soaking in white spirit, I can't just spray water with any consistency, though backflushing works just fine. On top of it, the white spirit seems to have corroded an O-ring of the nozzle since air's leaking through the nozzle. I guess there's something wrnog with the O-ring and either the trigger and/or the air admission valve. I'll usually replace those parts, but will purchase another AB in the meantime as it's going to be costly anyway. Glad it was my birthday last month ^^

And I guess I'll stick to Vallejo or Tamyia matt varnish when using the airbrush, the Talens varnish is ace so I'll probably get a can of it though

 

[Einion]

Still wondering whether turpentine and essential oil of petroleum should work the same to clean, though, since I had the latter, I didn't bother getting the former. Should I?

I think you found the answer to this the hard way. When the instructions say to use turpentine, generally you need to use turps.

Quick update: the varnish clogged the airbrush to death

After a complete disassembly and a night-long soaking in white spirit, I can't just spray water with any consistency, though backflushing works just fine.

That's probably because the varnish isn't soluble in white spirit; what's in the jar is probably a resin dissolved in pure turpentine (hence how smelly you describe it - turps being a lot more pungent than most versions of white spirit).

Einion