Tricks for priming Fenryll?

Otter

New member
dnaGRIM published an article on what he refers to as the \"cult of clear primer\".

A week ago I turned yet another figure into a speckled, lumpy mess after the tip on the primer clogged, so I tried dnaGRIM\'s dullcoat method. Worked pretty well, so I tried it on a second figure. This was a Fenryll resin, and nothing I do gets the paint to stick to the dullcoat. What I think might be happening is that the dullcoat isn\'t sticking to the resin and when paint is applied it rips the \"primer\" off... The paint color isn\'t as strong as normal.

Problem is, I now don\'t want to go back to chunky spray paints and brush-on primers, and I just got this big stack of Fenryll weaping for some color. (Brushed primers on Fenryll looks AWFUL, IMO. Chunky, needs at least two coats, and stubborn brushlines.)

Does anyone have a positive experience priming Fenrylls? I don\'t want to lose that great detailing by heavy priming, and my thinned primer of choice ain\'t sticking.

- Otter
\"Never send a ferret to do a weasel\'s work\"
 

finn17

New member
I know this is obvious...

Are you cleaning them thoroughly first? Resin minis are notorious for having the release agent they use in the casting process all over them. They absolutely must be washed in warm soapy water very thoroughly before anything will stick reliably.

There is an article on this site about how to handle/prepare resin minis.

http://www.armorcast.com/
 

supervike

Super Moderator
microwave them clean....

I think you can put them in the microwave to clean them.....


lollollol

I may be confusing this with another thread, so don\'t try this unless you do your research......
 

Otter

New member
Hey Finn! :)

Yep, little buggers were cleaned but good. I\'m about as anal as you claim to be at getting the flack off before painting.

My new theory is that I damaged this particular model through applying dullcoat as a primer and the two compounds aren\'t happy to be cohabitating (days like this I wish I had a chemestry degree).

Maybe I should look into stripping it (ha!) and starting from scratch.

- Otter
\"Never send a ferret to do a weasel\'s work.\"
 

finn17

New member
Hmmm....

Originally posted by Otter
Hey Finn! :)
Maybe I should look into stripping it (ha!) and starting from scratch.
- Otter
\"Never send a ferret to do a weasel\'s work.\"
Good luck!

IMO trying to strip resin is a bitch!:mad:
 

Temperance

New member
Originally posted by Otter
My new theory is that I damaged this particular model through applying dullcoat as a primer and the two compounds aren\'t happy to be cohabitating (days like this I wish I had a chemestry degree).

Even with the chemistry degree, I\'m pretty clueless. ;)

I\'ve been making my own resin casts of things that I\'ve sculpted, and priming is a bit more difficult. If it\'s not properly primed, the paint beads up on the resin miniature! That\'s NO good!

One solution that I was once forced to use was mixing a bit of Smelly Primer in with the paint, and that helped a little bit.

In the future, I think I\'m going to try to airbrush on my primer. That way I have more control. I haven\'t been inducted into the cult of clear primer.yet; I\'m just a initiate in the Cult of White Primer.
 

MDL

New member
Wash it well with detergent.

While doing this, scrub it with a softer brush. You will create a slight \'roughness\' that you won\'t notice.

Then paint with an enamel/solvent based paint. You want it to stick. Creating microabrasions with a brush and using enamels to base coat are perhaps the best way to do this.

Oh, if you can: airbrush. Basically a can is a poorman\'s airbrush. If you are serious about modeling, even a cheap single action airbrush is worth its weight in gold. And, after a while, you can clean up FASTER using an airbrush than regular brushes.
 

finn17

New member
Oh, you\'re more than welcome...

Welcome to the club MDL. It\'s not often such an erudite new member surfaces. :bouncy:
 
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